Logistics of sea kayaking to Ailsa Craig

It has to be said that the staff of seakayakphoto.com are not the greatest exponents of open crossings. This is not wholly due to our well developed senses of self preservation. Out on the open briny there is not a great deal to photograph, which kind of defeats being a seakayakphoto.comer.

Ailsa Craig is worth the effort to get to. It is one of the World's great sea stacks. Like a sentinel of the sea, its great monolith rises at the entrance to the Firth of Clyde. Unlike many sea stacks, which are hidden away in remote places, Ailsa Craig is visible to anyone who visits the populous Ayrshire coast. Its dramatic outline rises to 338m and, for much of its 3.7km circumference, the first 100 meters rise sheer out of the sea. Despite its arresting appearance, the current island is but a shadow of its former self. Some 61.5 million years ago it was a giant volcano 3.5km high! Then, during the Ice Ages, the huge glaciers that swept south from the Scottish Highlands carved out the softer rocks of the Firth of Clyde basin and carried away the volcano’s ash cone. It left only the hard micro-granite rock of its volcanic plug. Fragments of this were carried by the ice as far south as Wales, where they can be found today, as erratic boulders.

Ailsa Craig lies 14km off the Ayrshire coast and the spring tide rate is only about 0.6kn so it just requires some repetitive paddling movements to get there and then, hopefully, about the same number to get back.

However, the weather round these parts tends to change quite quickly so there is a degree of commitment in making this trip. 24 hours before this photo was taken, there was a force 6 SE wind.

The BBC coastal forecast was for:

2008-05-05 0600 - 1159Pressure - 1025 mB RTemp max/min - 16/7 degrees CWind speed - F1-3 becoming F0-3Wind direction - EMax gust in knots - 17 becoming 18Sea state - Wavelets Visibility - Moderate becoming Good
Sig weather -

2008-05-05 1200 - 1759Pressure - 1027 mB RTemp max/min - 19/7 degrees CWind speed - F1-3 becoming F0-3Wind direction - SMax gust in knots - 18 becoming 18Sea state - Wavelets Visibility - Good

Fortunately the forecast was pretty accurate.....

Thanks to Steve (Ceegee) for help with the right age of Ailsa.

05/05/2008

Sea Kayakphoto.com trip index 2008

I have been posting little snippets of various trips concurrently. For those who would like to follow the thread of a single trip, I hope this index will be useful.

Less is more round Lismore!
27/12/08

What a carry on round the Mull!
15/12/08 The Mull of Galloway

Another West coast sunset! Firth of Clyde
14/12/08 Bute from Portencross,

Dunure from Maidens, Firth of Clyde
06/12/08

The Four Castles of Carrick, Firth of Clyde.
02/11/08 Turnberry to Ayr

The River Fleet from Fleet Bay
17/10/08

Loch nan Ceall and the Sound of Arisaig
13/09/08
14/09/08

To the Corryvreckan
30/08/08 Seil to Scarba via the Corryvreckan
31/08/08 Scarba to Seil via the Grey Dogs and the Cuan Sound

The Mull of Kintyre
26/07/08 Macrihanish to Sanda via the Mull
27/07/08 Sanda to Davaar Island

To Islay
12/07/08 Claggain Bay
13/07/08 Traigh Bhan
14/07/08 An Claddach
15/07/08 Port Askaig

To St Kilda
30/05/08 Loch Roag
31/05/08 Taransay
01/06/08 Monach Islands
02/06/08 Hirta and Dun
03/06/08 am Village Bay, Hirta
03/06/08 pm Boreray and the stacks
04/06/08 Loch Reasort to Scarp
05/06/08 Pabaigh Mor and Bhacsaigh

To the Garvellachs
10/05/08 Seil to the Grey Dogs via the Corryvreckan
11/05/08 Grey Dogs to the Garvellachs and Seil

Lady Isle
08/05/08 A busy night at Troon

Ailsa Craig
05/05/08 Gannets and granite

Fleet Bay
02/05/08 Solway sunshine

A misty Firth of Clyde
27/04/08 Maidens to Ayr

Arran
18/03/08 Portencross to Brodick via the Wee Cumbrae, Bute and Glen Sannox

Mull of Galloway
17/02/08 Ardwell Bay to East Tarbet

Dorus Mor
12/02/08 Craignish through the Dorus Mor to Crinan and Loch Craignish then back through the Dorus Mor as the sun set.

The four maritime castles of Carrick
20/01/08 Turnberry to Ayr.

The Cumbraes and Bute
12/01/2008 A day trip in the Clyde from Largs

The lost puffins and last sea eagle of Ailsa Craig

As we continued round Ailsa Craig from the main gannet colonies, we came across some places where banks of grass grew on great heaps of rocks that had long ago broken free from the heights above.


At one time, 250,000 pairs of puffins bred here but they were exterminated by rats.


The rats were exterminated in the 1990 by poison and the puffins have now returned. In May 2008 we saw several hundred. Two years earlier we had seen only five!


Once past the puffin colony, we approach the brooding mass of Bare Stack. It was these still bare contours that took the brunt of the glacier which at one time scoured the Firth of Clyde. The spring air chilled as we enterd the shade of these heights.


High on the great overhanging cliff is a small ledge called the Eagle's Seat. The last breeding sea eagle was shot on Ailsa Craig in 1881. It measured seven feet from wing tip to wing tip and was displayed in Culzean Castle for many years. This year we saw sea eagles on Islay and the Mull of Kintyre.

One can only hope that like the puffins, they too will return to the rocky fastnesses of Ailsa.

05/05/2008

It's tough being a gannet!

Not far from the summit cairn of Ailsa Craig we found this unprotected greater black backed gull nest. Now the rats have gone, this ruthless bird has no predators. We have seen these gulls straffing a colony of razorbills, forcing them into flight then eating their eggs.


Just a short distance away, down a grassy bank, lay the top of the gannet colony on the west craigs. It was quite tempting to go down and get some good closeups of the nesting gannets. But these gannets were incubating their eggs. If they had been disturbed and left the nest, the gulls would have swooped down and stolen the eggs. I contented myself with this distant view.


Marauding black backed gulls were not the only problem facing the gannets. Thirteen fishing boats, at least two of which were registered to Belfast, were trawling round and round Ailsa Craig. From the heights we could see where their nets had stirred up the sea bed. It seemed a great pity that so many fish were being scooped out of the sea, right under the beaks of the breeding gannets.

05/05/2008

Ailsa Craig lighthouse.

From the summit of Ailsa Craig we started our steep descent back to the lighthouse. At times it looked like we were about to walk over a precipice but the path always swung back onto more gentle slopes.


The castle and the lighthouse reappeared almost beneath our feet!


As we traversed the slope we could see huge blocks of granite piled at the top of the beach beyond the lighthouse (see next post).


The lighthouse was built by Thomas and David Stevenson in 1886. The light flashes white every 4 seconds. The lighthouse was automated in 1990 and the last keepers left.


This NLB plaque can be found in the courtyard. Unfortunately the former keepers' cottages and workshops are falling into dilapidation.

05/05/2008

Splendid isolation on the heights of Ailsa Craig.

From the Castle, Tony Gavin and myself perspired on our way up a steep bank of bluebells towards the summit of Ailsa Craig.


We caught our breath at the Castle Well. Although the water bubbling from the ground was crystal clear, we did not slake our thirst. The well had several floating feathers and the surrounding grass was littered with bird droppings.


Continuing upwards we came to the Garry Loch. In the summer this nearly dries out and its banks are covered with marsh marigolds.


Higher still we came to the bothy. This two roomed dwelling grows out of a steep bank. It would have had a thatch or turf roof. At one time sheep, goats and pigs were kept on Ailsa Craig and the herdsman would have spent at least the summers in this high spot.


Finally we arrived at the summit cairn and trig point. Ailsa Craig is 338m high and we had hoped to be rewarded with views of Kintyre, Arran, Ben Lomond, Ayrshire, the Galloway hills and the mountains of the Isle of Man and Northern Ireland. However, the early summer high pressure system, which gave us a calm crossing, had brought increasing haze.

So we stood on the summit in splendid isolation from the rest of the World.

05/05/2008

Landfall on Ailsa Craig

Seeing Ailsa Craig on the horizon from our recent tour of the Ayrshire Carrick coast has brought back memories of a fabulous trip back in May. We made landfall on the spit of granite blocks which extends to the east of the isle. Above us the castle clung precariously to the steep slopes.


The Ailsa Craig lighthouse lies at the easternmost end of the spit. It was built in 1886 by Thomas and David A Stevenson. It has a white flash every four seconds.


After a brief lunch we set off to circumnavigate the island anticlockwise. If it is sunny this will give you the best light for photography on the dramatic west side. As we approached Stranny Point the air was filled with gannets.

05/05/2008

The Gannets of Ailsa Craig

As we rounded Stranny Point at the SW corner of Ailsa Craig we were struck by two things. The first was the wonderful quality of the light and clarity of the air.


The second was the sheer number and noise of thousands of croaking gannets. Over 40,000 pairs of gannets return to breed each spring after wintering in west Africa.


Every available ledge was occupied by a gannet nest and every inch was fiercely defended from any of its neighbours' encroachments.

Oh, I think I might have forgotten to mention the rich smell! Truly a visit to Ailsa Craig at breeding time is one of the natural world's great experiences!

05/05/2008

I am sorry not to have posted during my visit to Taiwan or during my recovery from jet lag!

Rock and roll on Ailsa Craig

From the slopes above the lighthouse, we had spotted a huge pile of granite boulders at the top of the beach. These had been collected in 2001 by a digger and dump truck from the site of the old quarry by the south fog horn. No fresh blasting took place, the pieces of rock had lain there since the quarry was abandoned in 1971. The moving machinery had been brought by landing craft by Kays of Mauchline who make the world famous Ailsa Craig curling stones. They removed 1,500 tons of granite on the landing craft and left the remainder on the beach for future supplies.


In the past, the granite was cut into cylinders of rock on the island. The cylinders were then further cut and finished into curling stones at Kay's workshop on the mainland. It is still possible to find blocks of rock that have had cylinders cut out.


Although Kays used a JCB digger to load a landing craft in 2001, in the past a light railway served both the lighthouse and the quarry. Wagons loaded with granite rock were allowed to roll down the slope to the jetty.


This rusting truck is just about all that is left of the wagons. The railway was operated by a cable system. When hauling oil and supplies up to the lighthouse it was powered by an engine in a pit at the top of the railway.


The railway ran right to the end of the pier where a crane was used to unload and load supply and quarry ships.

05/05/2008

Disembodied heads on the return from Ailsa Craig!

After our exploration of the lonely rock of Ailsa Craig we set off on our return journey in glorious May afternoon sunshine.


It was hot work in the sun as what little wind there was began to die away as Ailsa Craig began to grow smaller on the western horizon.


By the time we were approaching Lendalfoot on the Ayrshire coast, the wind had dropped completely and we paddled accompanied by crazy reflections, some with disembodied heads.


The tide was well out as we landed in the reefs over which we had paddled just a few hours ago. On the horizon Ailsa Craig looked distant again but now we had an exact measure of that distance.

05/05/2008

The ancient keep of Ailsa

From the lighthouse, we made our way up to the ancient keep of Ailsa Craig castle. It was built in the late 14th century and granted to the abbots of Crossraguel Abbey by a charter of King Robert III in 1404.


The final approach to its austere walls was up a steep bank of bluebells whose colour matched the sky.


Although it was never laid ruin by a siege or by later builders looking for stones, its ancient corners have been weathered by centuries of winds.


Inside it is possible to climb to the great hall, if you step over the hole which leads to the dungeon.


Inside the hall the great fireplace and a side oven can still be seen. If you are very brave, it is possible to ascend to the roof by climbing on just the remaining outside edges of the spiral staircase.


It was a relief to step onto the security of Ailsa's rock again.

05/05/2008

The siren calls of Ailsa.

Emerging from the shade of Bare Stack we passed the north fog horn of Ailsa Craig. The north and south sirens were built at the same time as the lighthouse. An oil engine in the lighthouse buildings ran a compressor which fed air through pipes two and a half inches in diameter to the siren towers.


In Greek mythology, sweet singing sirens tempted ships to destruction on the rocks. Ailsa's sirens bellowed like a bull and had quite the opposite effect on sailors.


This warning sign is redundant. The sirens are long silent.


Soon the lighthouse came into view again.


We landed gently in a little bay of stones....


...before starting on our long climb to the lofty summit of Ailsa Craig.

05/05/2008

The missing mermaids of the water cave, Ailsa Craig

Immediately to the west of Stranny Point on Ailsa Craig lies the beautiful Water Cave, with its pillared entrance at sea level. It is sometimes known as the Mermaids’ Cave and winds for 43m into the heart of the Craig and is best entered by kayak at high tide before exploring the remainder on foot. Low tide leaves a rocky sill with a deep pool within, which is difficult to cross on foot. On our visit we could hear the mournful wails of seals within so we decided not to disturb them. Of course we saw no mermaids either!


Despite not gaining access to the interior, we were entranced by this enchanting place. On top of surrounding rocks, left high and dry by the receding tide, seals basked in the sun. Could these be the missing mermaids of the cave?

05/05/2008

There will now be a break in posting. I am off to Taiwan for 10 days, after which normal service from seakayakphoto.com will be resumed!

The bird colonies of Ailsa Craig

The sea bird breeding colonies on Ailsa Craig are amongst the biggest in the World. At this time of year, the scale of life being rejuvenated is simply humbling.

05/05/2008

Half way across...

Half way across, after 7km, the detail on Ailsa Craig begins to emerge from the morning sea fog.

05/05/2008