Big boats and little boats in Brodick Bay.

As we paddled into Brodick Bay in the sunset, we were not alone. A Royal Navy type 23 frigate was exercising in the Firth. She is possibly HMS Somerset who has been involved in tracking a Russian submarine in the approaches to the Firth of Clyde.

 Next we came across two tankers. Askholmen and...

 ...Bro Deliverer. Both were waiting to go up to the terminal at Finnart on Loch Long.

 We slipped unnoticed along the hull of Bro Deliverer from stern past...

 ...midships...

...to her bow. From her anchorage it was only a short distance to the...
 

 Brodick ferry terminal. We did not have long to wait until our ferry home, MV Caledonian Isles, arrived at her berth.

It had been a fantastic winter day during which we had covered 30km and introduced another paddler, Maurice, to paddle sailing. It could not get much better, or colder...or could it?

A near miss at the Heads of Ayr.

Unfortunately I have not been paddling since a shoulder operation at the end of July and then a little knee surgery at the beginning of October.This has caused a modicum of pain, which has rather limited my interest in the internet.

However, life goes on and I can dip into the back catalogue for some more sea kayaking posts. This time last year would seem a good place to start....

 It was a cold and frosty morning when we set off from Seafield beach at Ayr on the Firth of Clyde.

 We were bound for the former fishing port of Dunure which lies to the south of the Heads of Ayr.

 The Arran mountains were topped by a dusting of snow.

 We had just entered the shade of the Heads of Ayr when an aerial drama unfolded above our heads...

 Two jets hurtled towards each other...

 ...then created an interweaving...

...pattern with their contrails.

Pacing ourselves at Dunure.

 From Bracken Bay we paddled south past tumbling waterfalls then we caught...

 ...sight of Ailsa Craig.

 The sea was completely calm and we made good progress...

 ....until we caught sight of the distant Turnberry lighthouse when it was time to take a...

 ....sharp left into Dunure harbour.

 As we enjoyed our second luncheon, we watched as...

 ...first Phil then...

...David put the Taran 16 through its paces.

Then it was time to visit the pub, where we must have paced ourselves quite well...

 ...as the tide had gone out and...

...the sun had begun to set behind the ancient walls of Dunure Castle.

Galloway sunshine over Ardwall Isle.

It is now late in the season on the Solway Firth, the tourists have all gone and the pink footed geese have flown in from Greenland and Iceland  for the winter. A series of SE winds have lashed the coast with rain and...

...delayed the arrival of the skeins of geese and made solo kayaking less appealing. After several days of watching the seas from the shore...

 ...this day dawned dry with light force 3 winds and a hint of brightness in the sky. So I set off for the Isles once more. Although it would be a long slog into the wind, I took the sail for a fast return.

 As I approached Murray's Isles, the wind increased and I was glad of the shelter of their lee.

I didn't take any photos on the SW sides of Murray's Isles or Ardwall Isle. I had intended to go round the SW of Barlocco Isle as well but I decided to cut the trip short and head into the shelter of the channel between Ardwall and Barlocco.

Paddling north again, the wind was now a broad reach and the sea flattened in the lee of the mainland. I prepared to launch the sail as an encouraging blink of blue sky appeared. It was a false dawn...

...as I approached the east point of Ardwall, the rain started. It was only only a light spit in the air at first...

...but soon built up into a light shower which is known locally as Galloway sunshine. I quite enjoyed the feeling of isolation as the rain storm wrapped itself round the isles. As countless drops hit the sea the hiss of the rain  drowned out all other sounds. I was paddling alone with my thoughts.

 On the return leg across Fleet Bay, the rain stopped but clouds crowded in across...

...the rolling hills of Galloway and blotted out the last of the blue sky.

Seaside rock: columns of granite at the Trammins, Ailsa Craig.

We had nearly completed our circumnavigation of Ailsa Craig. We passed under the great rock columns of the cliffs called Trammins and arrived...

...below the South Foghorn.

Soon we were back at the eastern spit...

...on which the lighthouse stands.

A farewell look over our shoulders, then we set off on the 15km crossing back to the mainland.

Michelin starred pow wow at Knockinaam

We had been paddling along the remote Rhinns of Galloway peninsula for what seemed ages. Our stomachs were groaning with hunger pangs. 

At last we came across a break in the previously relentless rocks, Port of Spittal Bay. We have several times passed this spot without stopping. There appeared to be a house standing a little way back from the beach. We started drooling with the thought that perhaps we could beg some morsels of food.

On this cold January day, the North Channel tide race was pumping on the horizon. There was a little shore break in the bay...

...and it was good to feel our feet on the beach of coarse, grey sand and shingle.

Weak with hunger, our faltering steps took us up the beach towards the isolated house...

...we opened the creaking door and stepped inside. We were warmly greeted and told we were to be the only guests at the Knockinaam Lodge hotel that night. We were told a previous resident had been Sir Winston Churchill, who held several secret meeting here with President Eisenhower during the dark days of WW2.

Even better, we discovered that the hotel has a restaurant (though it only has a solitary Michelin star). Despite there just being just the two of us, Tony Pierce the chef, put on the full menu. We dined exceptionally well that night then slumbered in the warm, comfortable room with the waves crashing on the shore as a lullaby.

Sea kayaking in the Sound of Islay

A 15km half day paddle from Port Askaig, in the Sound of Islay, August 2010.

This is a great place to paddle if you arrive back at Port Askaig in the morning and the ferry back to Kennacraig in Kintyre is not due till late afternoon. We took advantage of a south going tide that was due to turn north in plenty of time to return.

Islay is always worth a visit, more great Islay information at Armin's Islay Blog and Ron's Islay Weblog.

Tides in the Sound of Islay:
The south going ebb  starts at -0140 Oban +05:15 HW Dover
The north going flood starts at +04:40 HW Oban -00:50 HW Dover.
The spring rate is 5 knots off Feolin.

Sitting it out on the Sound of Islay.

Haute Cuisine reviewed at An Cladach.

Fellow travellers in the Sound of Islay.

The power of water in the Sound of Islay.

Close encounter with the RNLI lifeboat at Islay.