Sea kayaking to Lochgoilhead from Arrochar, Loch Long

A 25km day trip from Arrochar at the head of Loch Long to Lochgoilhead at the head of Loch Goil.

Entering Loch Goil from Loch Long.



Hunched by the cold, a long, long way from the open sea.

Sea kayaking in the mountains with torpedoes and invisible ink.

Sea kayaking in search of the lost Ark.

 HMS Ark Royal, final voyage to Scotland.

Two million barrels of crude in Loch Long.

The mark of a good bothy

War and peace at Carraig nan Ron.

Carrick castle and the leading lights of Loch Goil.

A hall of mirrors in Loch Goil.

Photo album map.

War and peace at Carraig nan Ron.

Carraig nan Ron (seal rock) is a navigational hazard to both the warships and civilian ships that ply Loch Long. It lies off the point which separates Loch Long from Loch Goil. The light beacon is operated by a solar panel. In the distance is the Royal Naval Armament Depot at Coulport. Unlike Glenmallan, which services surface warships, Coulport is specifically designed to service submarines armed with Trident nuclear missiles. The large rectangular building is a covered floating dry dock for submarines. It was built in 1993.

Looking back up Loch Long, Ark Royal and Ashna were just visible in the distance.

A telephoto shot shows the storage tanks of the civilian Finnart oil terminal on the hill beside Ashna.

We now turned away from the bustle of Loch Long and entered Loch Goil...

...which is somewhat in the shade of its longer sibling.

The mark of a good bothy.

We stopped by one of the few beaches on Loch Long and enjoyed an excellent luncheon in this sheltered spot.

We could not stay long  as we were not even halfway to Lochgoilhead...

...but we could not resist a further stop at Mark Ferry cottage. Before the mountain road (which we used to leave a shuttle car) was built into Lochgoilhead, a ferry crossed to here on the Ardgartan peninsula, between Loch Long and Loch Goil. The ferry left from Portincaple on the other side of Loch Long.

The cottage is now maintained by the Mountain Bothy Association and as you can see from the roof, they are doing a great job.

What a great bothy, everything was neat and organised.

It is very well equipped with an excellent fireplace...

and a separate bedroom.  Clearly it is not near enough a road end to attract the neds (Non Educatit Delinqwints) it has been very well looked after.

In the woods behind the bothy, there was no sign of trees having been hacked down for firewood. The grass was still frosted and unsullied by human faeces which surround many of the bothies that attract the neds.

Despite its remote location on the west side of Loch Long, at one time, Mark Ferry cottage was once home to Scotland's oldest man.

A photo above the bothy fireplace commemorates his residence in the cottage. James Grieve is shown here in 1905, seated on the right of the photo. He was 105 at the time and lived till he was 110. The "old man" standing next to him was actually his son who was often mistaken for him. At the time this photo was taken the son was probably about 80 so it was an easy mistake to make!

Two million barrels of crude in Loch Long.

 Leaving the Ark Royal we continued SW down Loch Long. As we cleared Cnap Point a Very Large Crude Carrier all but obliterated the view ahead.

She was an Indian owned ship called MT Ashna. She has a capacity of 2 million barrels of crude oil.

We met another kayaker who had launched just south of Glenmallan jetty.

Ashna was off loading her crude at the Finnart deep water oil terminal. A pipeline takes the oil 57 miles right across Scotland, to the Grangemouth refinery on the Firth of Forth.

A tug was moored at the Finnart buoy. The SD Nimble is a Royal Navy support tug operated by Serco Denholm. She is 38m x 9m and has two diesel engines producing 2640bhp. She was probably waiting to manoeuvre Ark Royal from Glenmallan after the munitions had been unloaded.

HMS Ark Royal is a large ship but she was dwarfed by the scale of Ashna. By the time we had paddled her 330m length it was time for lunch.

HMS Ark Royal, final voyage to Scotland.

This is what we had come to see. HMS Ark Royal, the third in the Invincible class of light aircraft carriers.

She was launched in 1981 and commissioned in 1985. She weighs 22,000 tons and measures 210m by 36m.

She can carry up to 18 Harrier GR 6/7 aircraft. Her ramp is steeper (than that of her two earlier sister ships) to enhance the Harriers' take off performance. She is currently flagship of the Royal Navy fleet.

 Here she is  moored at Glenmallan pier in Loch Long to off load her armaments.

There is an exclusion zone that extends all round Glenmallan, almost to the far side of the loch! When munitions are being loaded or unloaded it is patrolled by a naval launch and so we made a point of sticking to the far shore. I wasn't sure if photography would be exactly welcomed and my white barrelled Canon L telephoto lens  is not exactly inconspicuous. I tended to take photos when other boats were traversing the edge of the exclusion zone and distracting the patrol boat!

Sadly HMS Ark Royal is to be decommissioned...

...and so we said our farewells to this fine ship. We were glad that we had managed to kayak past her on her final trip in Scottish waters.

Sea kayaking in search of the lost Ark.

Loch Long runs very straight and it is also very deep. It  has some of the finest deep water jetties in the World. From north of Ardgartan we could see a VLCC* berthed at the Finnart oil terminal some 9km away. But this was not what we were looking for.

We continued paddling down Loch Long under the high peaks of of Argyll...

...round which the mists still clung.

The NW shore of Loch Long is remote from tarmac roads and being in a sheltered location...

...the forests still had some autumn leaves for colour. We were enjoying the natural beauty of the loch when...

...Jim thought he spotted something ahead.

Ever so slowly...

...a strange shape materialised out of the glare of the low winter sun. We had found what we were looking for!

*VLCC: very large crude carrier!

Sea kayaking inthe mountains with torpedoes and invisible ink.

By the time Jim and I returned from the shuttle, the tide was well back. We had chosen a launch site beside...

..the old pier at Arrochar and so did not have nearly half a kilometer of sticky black mud to negotiate at the head of Loch Long.

Once on the water, the Phil was dwarfed by the jagged ramparts of the Cobbler. The first of the winter snows clung to the dark rocks of the high corries.

We set off SW down Loch Long towards the distant open sea. We were hemmed in on both sides by the mountain slopes...

...that now plunged into the sea but which had once confined the glacier that had gouged out Loch Long during the Ice Ages. The SE side of the valley that contains the loch was in deep shade and our breath froze into icy crystals in the cold morning air.

We moved over to the sunny side of the loch where we passed the remains of the abandoned Admiralty buildings which were the headquarters of the Loch Long Torpedo Range. The range opened in 1912 and remained open until 1986. During WW1 in 1915, a Uruguayan national,  Augusto Alfredo Roggen, was arrested at the the nearby Tarbet Hotel. He said he was on a fishing holiday and had a map of the area (including the restricted area at the head of Loch Long) in his possession. He raised suspicion as he had arrived without rods and a when he was arrested, a revolver, ammunition and invisible ink were found in his room. Although the police were very smart to find the invisible ink, what really damned him was, that in Britain, the revolver was considered a very unsporting way to catch fish. He was transported  to the Tower of London and although the Loch Long fish were spared the bullet, he was not. In 1915 Britain, fish enjoyed a longer life than spies.

We would need to be careful...

Hunched by the cold, a long, long way from the open sea.

For a change, we decided to drive a long way from the open sea for our last trip. We left Glasgow in thick misty conditions, so thick that we missed the turn off for the Erskine Bridge and nearly ended up in Greenock. Fortunately the mist was rising by the time we arrived.

Our destination was Arrochar at the head of Loch Long. The open sea was 160km away, down Loch Long, the Firth of Clyde and the North Channel, between the Mull of Kintyre and Ireland. There are two car parks at the head of Loch Long but the tide was out, revealing evil, black mud. We launched instead, from the slipway near the old pier and parked at the car park beside the village  hall. If an event is on and this full, an alternative is to and park on some open ground to the south of the Village Inn and launch from the old slipway to its north, or some steep stone steps opposite.

Only the sea weed at low tide betrays that Loch Long is not a fresh water lake, nestling deep within the mountains.

At sea level we were still deep in the shade but high above us, the rising sun already shone on the summit of Ben Arthur, 884m. The Cobbler, as the Ben is commonly known, appeared to hunch over the head of the loch.

The still water of  Loch Long reflected the forests of the Cobbler's foothills while this cormorant sat immobile, hunched against the cold like the Cobbler. It didn't look like a good day for fishing...

...but perfect for sea kayaking, so we wasted no time getting ready.

As the mist rose  and the sky cleared, the temperature plummeted and the shaded road turned into a sheet of ice.

We were very careful as we carried the kayaks along to the slipway. I have never understood kayak coaches, who insist on warm up exercises before paddling. We were roasting by the time we got the kayaks to the shore.

Mind you, Phil didn't stay roasting for long. Jim and I left him for an hour as we negotiated the treacherous mountain road over to Lochgoilhead, where we left a shuttle car before returning to Arrochar.