Setting off with a fair wind and tide on the Solway Firth.

The day dawned fair on Fleet Bay in the Solway Firth and as the line of clouds drew back to the SE we enjoyed some warm October sunshine.

Ian, Mike and I soon had our kayaks packed and at the water's edge. It had been our intention to paddle east to Sandyhills stopping at Little Ross Island and Hestan Island on the way. Unfortunately the firing range at Dundrennan was in use so we would not be able to pass. So we intended to do a there and back paddle as far as Kirkcudbright.

 It was a most marvellous start with a fresh tailwind and paddling...

 ...straight into the sun.

 The ebb tide was also with us and it seemed like no time at all until...

 ...we landed on Ardwall Isle for first luncheon.

We decided to climb to the top by way of the farm track which leads up from the beach. The farmer drives over from the mainland at low tide several times a year to cut the grass and bale it.

As we gained height we enjoyed a great view over the recently cut meadow to Murray's Isles Ravenshall Point and to Wigtown on the far side of Wigtown bay.

 There were plenty of brambles but almost no sloes.

From the summit we had a clear view back across Fleet Bay to where we had come from, the cluster of caravans under Ben John.

 The simple cairn at the summit of Ardwall Isle overlooks the grand...

 ...house at Knockbrex with its fields extending down to a little harbour.

Beyond Barlocco reef our way lay away to the SE, beyond distant Ringdoo Point.

For the full kayak stereovision experience follow Ian's blog which starts here.

Not quite the Galapagos but natural selection is alive and well in the Isles of Fleet.

 Leaving the verdant pastures of Ardwall Isle, we set off to round...

 ...its seaward coastline.

 From this viewpoint there was little to suggest...

 ...that there was any green vegetation on the island at all. Indeed, the coastline was so primeval that we half expected to see basking iguanas round every corner.

From Ardwall we crossed to Murray's Isles. We landed on the larger isle for another break, though this little sandy beach  is covered after about half tide. We were amused to see two separate paddlers on sit on top kayaks paddle by. We thought they must be members of the DKC* as their only safety items were a pair of gloves and a cotton T shirt.

 We left the Murray's Isles through this little gap...

 ...at their western end and...

...arrived safely back a little early. Tony and Jennifer kindly carried my kayak up the beach. Tony brought his trolley back for his own kayak and was ably assisted by his daughter.

Another great trip in the Solway.

*DKC Darwin Kayak Club.

Apples are not the only fruit in the Eden of Ardwall Isle.

We landed on Barlocco reef at low tide so we had three hours to wait until the flood tide would fill Fleet Bay sufficiently to return to our launch site. The reef is seldom visited and the ground is very rough with no paths. It is interesting to explore Barlocco as there is a lot of flotsam and jetsam. There is also a very lush green mound under which lies the remains of a fin whale, not a good place for Little Miss Muffet! For someone with knees like mine, Barlocco was not an option so with Knockbrex House in the background, we set sail for...

...Ardwall, which is a verdant isle with a network of paths. Leaving Jennifer by the kayaks, Tony and I enjoyed a gentle walk to the summit of the isle and took in the panorama.

To the SE, in the lee of distant Ringdoo Point, lay Barlocco reef from where we had just come. On the horizon, the flood tide was rushing eastwards up the Solway Firth, kicking up an uncomfortable sea in the SE wind. We were glad we had retreated to more sheltered waters.

To the NW lay the Murray's Isles. The cottage on the larger isle is very interesting. Like many Scottish cottages in exposed locations, its gable end faces SW into the prevailing wind. This one is unusual in having a window in the SW gable. This was so the occupant could keep an eye on approaching ships. The cottage was used by pilots who were waiting to escort ships up the Fleet canal to Port Macadam in Gatehouse of Fleet. It was also used by customs officers who were on the lookout for smugglers.

 This was the view north to the Carrick coast and...

...this is a telephoto view to the ESE and Knockbrex beach where we had stopped for first luncheon. There are two follies or as they say in Galloway "Coo Palaces" in this photo. The fortification behind the beach was a boathouse and beach changing house for Knockbrex House. The castle on the horizon is a water tower! There is also a cave, reputed to have been a Smugglers cave, hidden in bushes to the left of the beach.

 Eventually the winding path took us to Ardwall cottage. Near the path at this spot are a couple of underground chambers covered with flat stones. They were used by smugglers to conceal contrabrand.

It is stll used as a holiday home but the owners were not in residence. There is no water supply barrainwater which is collected from the gutters.

 Hedges round the cottage are abundant with fuschias and escalonias which thrive in the mild climate.

 Tony spied an apple tree...

...which had a heavy crop of small but perfectly formed fruit. He picked a rosy specimen and bit into it with relish. Unfortunately it was a bitter crab apple!

Fortunately the flood tide was now beginning to fill the bay again. Time to go...

...so we made our way down to the beach through a hay meadow that was alive with butterflies. Near the beach we passed ta pile of stones covered with brambles. It is all that remains of an early Christian chapel. Ardwall is truly an Eden and well worth exploring.

Tight ropes on Slack Heugh.

The SW coast of Meikle Ross has steep cliffs extending from Fox Craig along to Slack Heugh.

They are a magnet for rock climbers as there are a whole range of routes right up to E numbers.

We still had a little tidal assistance, though we were now out of the main ebb flow from the Solway. We soon found ourselves at Manxman's Rock...

...then the westcoast of Barlocco Isle. Phil tried to cross the rocky bar, which connects Barlocco to the mainland at low tide. He ended up having to do a solo portage!

The tide was well out by the time we got back to Ardwall and Carrick shore. The sand is pretty firm to the south of Carrick and it is worth sticking a trolley in your kayak, if you plan to take a diversion up the Dee to Kirkcudbright for fish and chips.

Self portrait in Smugglers' Cove.

Back in April, the weathermen promised a summer of endless barbecues; which proved to be their euphemism for wind and rain!


We went on a little jaunt out to Ardwall Island in the Solway Firth on a day which did seem to promise an endless summer..


We landed in Smugglers' Cove. Just above the beach there is a hole in the ground which was a hiding place for contraband spirits and wines from the Isle of Man.


Several people have emailed asking why there are few, if any, photos of me on this blog. Well it's very simple, I take the photos! I did like this one taken after we had polished off our own small supply of spirits!

11/04/2009