Some matters concerning frost, condensation, mist, "evaporation", disappearing water and the golden light of dawn on Loch Shiel.

The skies cleared about 1a.m. and turned into a bitterly cold night on the shores of Loch Shiel. We had planned to rise at 6am and right on cue a timber lorry rumbled down the forestry road on the far side of the loch. It was the first sound of human activity we had heard since leaving Glenfinnan the previous day.

The sun had not yet risen and the frost lay thick on the ground round our camp site.

We rubbed our hands to keep them warm while our water boiled then after breakfast...

...we loaded the boats. At least, being a fresh water loch, we had not had to carry them far due to the lack of tide! However, the "tide marks" on the sand showed that the level of the loch had dropped 15cm overnight. This might not sound much but Loch Shiel has a surface area of 19.3km2! That is a huge volume of water that had disappeared overnight. Since it clearly had not evaporated it must have gone somewhere else and that somewhere is where we were going....!

We launched just as the first rays of sun hit the mountain slopes high above. You will note that I had brought my Aries 155. It swallowed gear and food for 3 nights and 4 days in winter with no bother though it was right down to the seam.

We were still in deep shade when we launched but by the time our cold fingers fumbled with the spray decks...

...the sun had risen above the mountains.

We turned our backs to the sun and aimed our bows...

...to the SW...

...down the long defile of Loch Sheil. A layer of mist on the water began to rise leaving the...

...air crystal clear in the golden light of dawn. Ian and I snapped away with our DSLR cameras but they were so cold and the air was so humid that the lenses misted up with condensation.

The light was so wonderful that I really did not want to miss any shots. So I landed and spent some time with lens tissues and holding the lens to the sun to warm it.

All aglow in the Lynn of Lorn.

Our winter adventure was now nearing its end. The sun was well down as we continued our exploration of the sheltered waters of Port Ramsay at the NE end of Lismore.

 We went round the south end of Eilean Ramsay before...

 ...paddling through the skerries on its west coast on our way back to the NE point of Lismore.

Then we were in for a treat. The flood tide was  now running up the Lynn of Lorn and was being compressed in the narrow gap between Lismore and the Appin mainland where it was running at 2.5 knots. We took advantage of an eddy to carry us past the Lismore ferry pier then...

 ...down the long gravel spit to its south before enjoying a brisk ferry glide across to the island in mid channel. It certainly warmed us up!

East of the island, the tide dropped to 1.5 knots and I was able to get my camera out to capture this wonderful sunset glow in the sky above the Lynn of Lorn. Beyond the dark outline of Eilean Dubh, the distant Garvellachs were floating above the horizon.

We landed at Port Appin just after sunset and packed our things away in the gathering darkness and cold as a creel boat off loaded its catch. Although our winter trip was now over, we were glowing with memories.

The last day of our four day winter trip was a short 18 kilometres but it had been packed with interest: castles, history, industrial archaeology, natural history, islands, strong tides, paddle sailing, sunset, and good company, who could ask for more? If you look at the GPS track you can see where I stopped to take the photo of the sunset just before  the finish at Port Appin. The tide certainly didn't waste any time in carrying me NE!

Is it worth paddle sailing up wind and up tide across the Lynn of Lorn?

It was now time to leave the north of Shuna. The flood tide had already reached the boats.

We managed to get the sails up for a short paddle across the north end of the island but...

...as soon as we turned south down the Sound of Shuna we faced a head wind and the north going tide.

The mooring for the Shuna farm work boats is on the east of Shuna.

As we progressed down the Sound of Shuna there were some bursts of sunlight and...

...to the south the Sgeir Buidhe lighthouse and Eilean Dubh stood out against the glowing sky above the Lynn of Lorn.

From the south end of Shuna it is 1.75km across the north end of the Lynn of Lorn to Eilean nan Caorach (sheep island) which lies off the NE tip of Lismore. The offshore wind was gusting quite badly so Mike and Ian decided to paddle and I stuck my sail up. Although I started on a beam reach, our route took us across a tide that was running at 2 knots. Even maintaining a high ferry angle I ended up paddle sailing close hauled.

This is on Eilean nan Caorach looking back at Shuna.  First of all, note how far down tide (to the left) Ian and Mike have been carried, we set off from the south end of Shuna which is out of picture to the right. Secondly, many people say it is not worth paddle sailing close hauled as the kayak will not plane to windward. However, I beg to differ. I paddle sailed the crossing and arrived 4 minutes and 35 seconds before Ian and Mike arrived by paddling alone.


As you can see, they were in the tide a lot longer and got carried well down tide.

This seal was so busy looking at me he did not notice Ian's approach. It disappeared with a huge splash as...

...Ian passed and finally arrived on Sheep Island. I rest my case m'lud!

Tunnel vision and the consumption of alcohol when winter sea kayaking in Loch Sunart.

The east wind whistled straight down Loch Sunart from the icy slopes...

 ...of Garbh Bheinn at its head.

 To the west gathering snow clouds darkened the sky but...

 ...the view to the east continued to clear and patches of blue sky appeared and bursts of sunlight dappled the hillsides.

 Mike spotted a rare beach of sand so it was undoubtedly time for second luncheon...]

...which we enjoyed  on the rocks below the ancient oak woods of Sunart, which come right down to the shore.

We poured some excellent Jura, which went down extremely well. However this blog has been spammed recently by "a responsible seakayaker" who is very unhappy that I am setting a bad example by portraying drinking while sea kayaking. Here is this morning's example:

"I am a responsible sea kayaker and I strongly object to your repeated glorification of the consumption of alcohol on your sea kayaking trips. Have you no insight into the bad example you are setting to impressionable sea kayakers whose lives are endangered by your irresponsibility? You should be ashamed of yourself."

Just in case there are any impressionable sea kayakers out there who feel they are unduly influenced by our luncheon habits (we never imbibe with breakfast by the way), let me just say that:

"Alcohol can impair your judgement, affect your coordination, make you more liable to exposure and if you are male, make you impotent."

 I trust any impressionable readers have now  been well and truly warned of the evils and dangers of drink. Anyway back to a pleasant luncheon and a dram of Jura...

...Cheers "responsible seakayaker", slàinte mhòr!

Please see below for comments and also Ian's post on his blog with comments also.

 It was now time to return to the waiting boats as...

 ...yet more snow showers gathered ...

...round the loch but at least the...

...wind slowly dropped away.

As the clouds gathered, the only clear sky was to the east through the "tunnel" of Glen Tarbert. The sun was shining on Sgorr nam Fiannaidh 967m some 35 km distant. Its sunlit slopes acted as a beacon and guided us safely home, through the darkening skies and snow showers of Loch Sunart.

After saying goodbye to Simon and Liz, Ian Mike and I drove back to Corran where the ferry was crossing Loch Linnhe from the Lochaber side.

After a short ferry crossing and drive we arrived back at the Ballachuilish Hotel for a hot bath, an excellent meal and several pints of sports recovery drinks.

At only 20 kilometres this was a short trip but we felt we had made the most of an unpromising winter day and had enjoyed great company.

Wind, sun and snow through the Laudale Narrows, Loch Sunart.

We had enjoyed an extended luncheon in the shelter of Garbh Eilean but when it started to snow we decided it was time to return.

The east wind was still blowing and we had a stiff paddle across the bay to...

 ...the shelter of Rubha na Daimh.

 There were still blinks of sun through the heavy snow bearing clouds as...

 ...we approached Laudale House which can be rented by parties of up to 20! Laudale House was built by John Campbell of Ardslignish starting in 1755 and finally finishing in 1790. Then we entered...

 ...the eponymous narrows through which...

...we passed into the inner loch. The flood tide had just turned in our favour but had not yet built up sufficient speed to create wind over tide conditions.