The Grey Dogs were salivating, while awaiting our arrival.

It was a cold, grey, January day but the promise of spring tides took us to Ellenabeich on the Island of Seil. David, Jennifer, Jim, Phil and I launched our kayaks in the little harbour of this former slate mining centre.

The harbour at Ellenabeich is sheltered from the open Firth of Lorn by the island of Easdale which lies just over 100m across the Sound of Easdale. A little passenger ferry runs back and forwards for most of the day to serve the community that has grown up in the former quarrymens' cottages on the island.

Setting off down the Sound of Luing with Luing and Scarba on the horizon.

Our plan was to circumnavigate Luing using the ebb in the Sound of Luing then the flood in the Cuan Sound. It was spring tides with HW Oban at 0749 and 2011. Peak rate in the channels would be 9knots. So I calculated that in the significant channels the ebb (S and E going) would run until 1225 when the flood would start. Sunset was 1633. I wanted to get to the Grey Dogs for about 1130, which would allow for an hour's play before slack water. Because we were finishing in the Cuan Sound, I wanted to get back to Seil by dark (I also wanted to hit the Cuan at full belt at about 1530!) That meant leaving Seil at 1000. David and Phil arrived at my house in Glasgow bang on time at 0600 and we were on the water by 1000 sharp!

 It did not take long to reach the tiny island of Fladda, which sits right in the middle of the fairway of the Sound of Luing. Beyond Fladda, the bold outline of Scarba rose above Lunga and distant Jura.

Fladda lighthouse was built in 1860 by David and Thomas Stevenson. The wall surrounding the raised part of the island was built to give shelter to the keepers' vegetable garden!

We hardly had time to look at Fladda before the tides whisked us away at  15km/hr!

We continued at this rate down the Sound of Luing, towards the great bulk of Scarba under which the Grey Dogs were salivating, while awaiting our arrival......!

The Garvellachs from Seil

A 32km day trip round the Garvellach islands from Ellenabeich on Seil. August 2010.


the NW coast of Eileach na Naoimh.

Tidal streams from Insh Island to the north end of the Sound of Luing:
+0430 HW Oban (-0100 HW Dover) north-east going flood begins.
-0155 HW Oban (+0500 HW Dover) south-west going ebb begins.

The spring rate is 6-7 knots through the islands at the N end of the Sound of Luing. On the N going stream a strong tide race extends from Rhubha Fiola to Ormsa then past the SW side of Belnahua. Between the Garvellachs and the Black Islands the spring rate 2-3knots. On the west side of Lunga the spring rate is from 3-3.5knots. South of Insh Island, the spring rate is 1-1.5knots.

Eddys are frequent, especially round the north end of the Garvellachs.

On the day, it was 4 days after springs Oban HW 0915 LW 1531 HW 2138. We left Ellenabeich at 1015, the SW ebb had started at 0720. On the return we left Garbh Eileach at 1605, the NE flood had started at 13:45. We returned to Ellenabeich at 1757.

A rough crossing to the Rough Islands.

Sea kayaking under the west coast cliffs of Garbh Eileach.

A fishless lunch on Eileach an Naoimh.

Garvellachs rock face.

The great eagle of Eileach an Naoimh.

Return tickets for the Sound of Luing express.

Bear right at Belnahua!

An encounter with Loti on an uneasy sea.

A unobstructed view thanks to midges and shaggy dogs.


Photo album map. (Note that Google maps know nothing of the Garvellachs or Insh Island!)

Bear right at Belnahua!

We paddled east towards the Black Islands. Away to the south Jura and Islay lay on the horizon while Eileach an Naoimh lay closer at hand.


We got a good view of Dun Chonnuil to the north. Through the gap between it and Garbh Eileach we could see the Laggan peninsula on Mull.


We slipped through the reefs to the east of Eilean Dubh Beag, the smaller of the Black Islands. After a brief stop on Eilean Dubh Mor we cut across to the north end of Lunga. The Sound of Luing was running like a river and we broke into its current.


We were carried north past the lighthouse on Fladda. It was built in 1860 David and Thomas Stevenson. It flashes every 9 seconds and has red white and green sectors.


If you are not careful you will be swept past the SW corner of Belnahua but a stiff paddle should see you up its east side.


Only then can you relax and let the 5 knot tide...


...secure in the knowledge that it will take you all the way back to Seil.

The east coast of Scarba

After camping overnight on Scarba we were attacked by billions of midges. Although they feasted on what was left by the ticks, we had no breakfast, went hungry and hurriedly packed. We launched without delay and made our way west into the Corryvreckan again. We paddled as far as we could into the east going ebb tide. It was a good warm up and the wind blew the midges away!

We then retreated and made our way up the Sound of Luing along the east coast of Scarba.


Scarba has a lot of red deer and initially I thought these were red deer fawns because of their white patches (though I did think they were quite large fawns!) I am indebted to Lucy who correctly identified them as fallow deer. There is a small herd of fallow deer on Scarba and also on Mull and Islay. Fallow deer were present in Scotland before the last ice age but became extinct during it. They were probably reintroduced by the Normans. The herds on these Scottish islands will have been introduced by owners of deer estates.


The east coast has beautiful mixed deciduous woodlands which make their way right down to the rocky shore. It is quite a contrast to the exposed west coast. High above the shore and the trees stands lonely Kilmory Lodge, a shooting lodge. Watch out Bambi!


We eddy hopped up the Sound of Luing against the south going ebb tide. In the distance we could see Fladda lighthouse.


The Scarba pier provides a good place to stop. We went right to the end of the pier to escape the midges and enjoyed a bacon roll.


We could not resist paddling right through to the west of the Grey Dogs tide race then running back east with the tide again. It was much calmer than the previous day.

31/08/2008

Fladda lighthouse

Fladda is one of the Slate Islands in the Sound of Luing. It is a considerable hazard to navigation as it sits right in the middle of the fairway and is surrounded by swirling tides.

The lighthouse was built by David and Thomas Stevenson in 1860. The light flashes every 9 seconds. To the east the light flashes white but is unlit to the west.

30/08/2008