Departure gate, Port Mor terminal 1.

 Ian and I still had some time before the ferry arrived to take us back from Muck to Mallaig via Eigg. We decided to take the short walk across to the north side of the island. Ahead of us the brooding Cuillin of Rum slowly emerged from...

 ...the cloud that was enveloping the island..

 As we started the descent to the north shore Horse Island dominated the view to the north west of Muck.

 We soon passed Camas na Cairidh, where we had made landfall on Muck less than 24 hours before.

 Gallanach Lodge is the new hotel on Muck and will open at the end of May 2013.

 A few moments after passing the Lodge we arrived at the beautiful Gallanach sands.

 Though tourists would need to be prepared to share the beach with the local residents at the west end of the beach. Mr MacEwen the farmer and owner of Muck gave us a welcoming wave as he passed on his quad bike. Unlike nearby Rum, which was closed to visitors, Muck has welcomed visitors and offered them free access for decades before the Scottish Land Reform Act guaranteed access to Scottish wild land for responsible visitors.

 Just past the bay and farm we came to Gallanach Cottage which is available to rent.

Ian and I then took a short walk to the north end of Muck. I found the ground to be too rough along the coast so...

...we walked along the short turf on the crest of the ridge where we came across some gravestones.

There are a number of idyllic beaches here but we did not scramble down to them as my knees were really sore and we still had to get back to Port Mor...

 ...Terminal 1 where the crowds were already gathering for the arrival...

 of the ferry.

 The MV Loch Nevis reversed in and we pulled our kayaks up her stern loading ramp. The crew were most interested to hear how we had got on particularly as we were the first sea kayakers of the season.

The MV Loch Nevis called in at the new ferry terminal on Eigg after passing through the narrow channel between Eilean Chathastail and the mainland of Eigg.

The old tidal  harbour can still be entered behind the new jetty though the channel between the perches is neither wide nor deep.

As we left Eigg the low winter sun briefly lit the wonderful landscape before the clouds gathered round...

 ...the Sgurr of Eigg and sea fog rolled round...

...the north end of the island. With a chill in the air we went below to...

...enjoy a huge plate of scampi and chips.

All too soon our Small Isles trip was over. The crew kindly helped us pull the kayaks up the steep ramp then we loaded the kayaks onto the cars, which we had left at Mallaig sea front.

Ian and I had both enjoyed this trip immensely.  Neither of us is goal orientated. We just went paddling for an enjoyable kayaking exploration. Amazingly however, we had paddled between all four of the Small Isles and spent a night on each on a winter trip. A key element in this was flexible planning, we changed plans several times to take account of changing conditions. It would be fair to say that some of the options we had changed to, had been considered at the planning stages before we set off.

We had met many interesting and genuinely nice people. It was fascinating to hear how each island community was working for its development and future. We had faced everything from flat calm and fog to some of the roughest wind against tide conditions you would care to spend any time in, in a remote place in winter. Ian and I were also fortunate in that we shared such a similar attitude to trip planning and risk assessment. Ultimately the trip was all the richer for each of us, as it was a shared experience.

It is always good to follow a story from more than one perspective. Ian's story can be followed fom here to here.

As we drove home on the Road to the Isles, the sun set behind Muck and we knew we would return soon.

A long and winding road on Eigg.

After breakfast at Lageorna, Sue offered to run Ian and myself the 7km back to the jetty at Glamisdale where we had left our kayaks. We thanked her for her kind offer but we had already decided to walk. So we loaded our possessions into that ubiquitous luggage carrier of itinerant sea kayakers...the Frakta Ikea bag. We breathed the fresh still air deep into our lungs. It's aroma was a mix of sea and natural countryside. Closer to the crofts there was also the smell of cattle and sheep.

As we passed each croft we could not help but notice the antennae for the HebNet terrestrial wireless broadband system.

Eigg also has an older communication system. This post box dates from the reign of King George V, who reigned from 1910 until he died in 1936. Ian and I had originally thought it would have dated from the reign of George VI but the typeface of GR confirms it as the Royal Cypher of the earlier monarch. Interestingly there are no specific times of day for collection of the post. Instead, the collection is made 1 hour prior to the departure of the ferry.

Some of the crofts were in better state of repair than...

...others but all shared...

...a marvellous view of the Bay of Laig. Ian and I were so glad we had decided to walk and to savour the atmosphere of this wonderfull island.

A new hedge of willow wands had recently been planted alongside the brae that leads from Cleadale to the watershed of Eigg.

Primroses adorned the banks on either side of the road.

Behind us, the Cuillin of...

...Rum slowly receded as we made...

our way up the long and winding road that led to the watershed of Eigg and...

...a view of the Sgurr of Eigg.

Where do the eggs on Eigg come from?

 As the sun rose on the face of the Sgurr of Eigg, the low clouds slowly lifted and ...

 ...to the NW, we finally got a view over the Sound of Rum to the magnificent Cuillin mountains of Rum.

We had stayed the night in the comfortable B&B at Lageorna, which was still deep in the shade of the steep hill behind. I wondered where the passengers on this early morning high flying jet had come from and were going to.

My eye followed the jet's contrail t and I noticed something on the hill side. It was part of the HebNet system which the community on Eigg has commissioned to bring broadband to the island. I used it to check the weather forecast before...

...enjoying a wonderful breakfast in Lageorna. There was no need to ask where this fried Eigg egg had...

...come from.

Putting down roots at Lageorna, Eigg.

True to her word, Sue waited for us to get changed out of our kayaking gear at Glamisdale jetty and ran us in her car the 7km over the spine of Eigg to her BandB at Lageorna in the township of Cleadale on the west side of the island.

We were welcomed by Sue's lovely collie bitch.

Sue told us that she was an incomer to Eigg, she had only been there for 35 years or so but Alastair her husband had been born at Lageorna.

Alastair's great grandparents had owned the croft and it had been in the family ever since.

The large sycamore tree that now stands at the croft gate had been planted by his great grandmother.

When we visited on 1st March there were bunches of snowdrops growing under the tree. It's nice to have roots.

Sue showed us to our rooms, the first thing that struck me was the beautiful beds which had been made by Sandy Fraser from Ivy Cottage on Rum. We had chatted to Sandy and his wife Fliss during our visit to Rum. Fliss runs a BandB from Ivy Cottage.

My room also had a bed settee and a window looking out to Rum which was still shrouded in fog.

Ian's room had a view...

...over to the Sgurr of Eigg which had a wisp of mist blowing round it like the peat smoke from a croft's chimney.

After showering Ian and I walked a little way up the Cleadale road and enjoyed the view from the war memorial. From this tiny place, 11 marched off to serve in WW1 and 3 were killed. 29 served in WW2 and 3 were killed. They fought for what was dear to them.

Lines of swell were still marching into the Bay of Laig and we...

...were glad our kayaks were safely drawn up on the jetty at Glamisdale. We had no worry about leaving them and most of our gear Eigg is far removed from the vandalism and petty crimes of the city.

As we returned to Lageorna, the mist lifted just for a moment revealing just a bit of the Cuillin of Rum.

It was with some anticipation that we returned to the crofts of Cleadale with their reeks of peat smoke.

Sue has a reputation as a fine cook and we were not disappointed by the fine three course dinner she prepared. Lageorna is also open to non residents for dining.

Outside the sky darkened over the Bay of Laig but...

...just for a moment, the Cuillin of Rum put in their first appearance of the day. Far below the summits a light betrayed the presence of a fishing boat working the Sound of Rum.

Ian and I so enjoyed Lageorna that we intend to return with our wives.