En route to Tiree.

We drove through the night to arrive in Oban in time to catch the 0545 ferry to Tiree. There is no car park at the Oban ferry terminal so we drove into the back of the railway station car park and dropped the kayaks there before trollying them through to the ferry terminal. I left the car in the free long stay Lochavullin car park, which is entered off Lynn Road.

Once aboard the MV Clansman ferry we made straight for the dining facilities, where we enjoyed the full trucker's breakfast before...

 ...taking a postprandial perambulation on the viewing deck...

...where we watched the Sound of Mull slip astern.

Soon we were disembarked...

...and launched our kayaks on the little white sand beach beside the ferry pier at Scarinish on Tiree. We had arrived!

Sea kayaking round Morvern

A three day, 114km paddle round the Morvern peninsula via Loch Linnhe, the Sound of Mull and Loch Sunart.

Sunset in Loch Drumbuie, an offshoot of Loch Sunart.

Tides:

Lynn of Morvern/Loch Linnhe
NE flood -0545 HW Oban ((+0110 HW Dover)
SW ebb +0025 Oban (-0505 HW Dover)

There are some peculiarities in the tides here.

A narrow stream of the flood tide entering the Lynn of Morvern hits the Morvern coast and then runs NE to Camas Chronaig where it continues to a point about 1.5km NW of Sgeir nam Tom. This stream runs at about 2.5 knots but elsewhere in the Lynn, the flood runs about one knot..

In the Lynn of Morvern, for the first 3-4 hours of a spring ebb, a SE going stream runs at about 4 knots (with a line of overfalls) from about 220m E off Rubha a'Mothair on the Morvern coast NM759411 to about 1100m NW of the SW tip of Bernera NM778392. Elsewhere in the Lynn the ebb runs about one knot.

Sound of Mull.
The flood tide goes NW and the ebb tide goes SE through the Sound.
At the NW end the flood runs for 7.5 hours and the ebb for 5 hours.
At the SW end the flood runs for 5.25 hours and the ebb runs for  7.25 hours.
The streams turn later and are stronger at the SE end.
Streams by the shores of the Sound turn 30mins earlier than in mid channel.

Throughout the Sound, by the shore,  the SE going ebb starts at approximately -0045 HW Oban (+0615 HW Dover)

The  NW going flood starts by the shore as follows working from NW to SE down the Sound:
Off Rubha nan Gall                 +0400 HW Oban (-0130 HW Dover)
Off Rubh' an t-Sean Chaisteil  +0500 HW Oban (-0030 HW Dover)
Opposite Eilean Glasa            +0600 HW Oban (+0030 HW Dover)
Off Rubha an Ridire               -0600 HW Oban (+0055 HW Dover)

At the SE of the Sound spring rates run up to 2 knots, elsewhere rates are about 1 knot with a bit more round headlands.

Loch AlineIn the entrance:
The in going flood -0525 HW Oban (+0135 HW Dover) 2.5 knots at springs.
The outgoing ebb +0040 HW Oban (-0450 HW Dover) 2.5 knots at springs

Loch Sunart
At the mouth of Loch Sunart the tide rotates through 360 degrees clockwise over 12.5 hours at generally less than one knot.
Within the loch the ingoing flood starts at -0500 HW Oban (+0200 HW Dover).
The outgoing ebb starts at +0130 HW Oban (-0400 HW Dover)
Spring rate is one knot except north of Carna and the entrances to Loch Teacuis 2.5 knots. At Laudale narrows the ingoing spring rate is 3 knots and the outgoing rate is 3.5 knots.

Day one.

Seakayakers, gypsies and bothy dwellers on Morvern.
A missed luncheon after a detour to Kingairloch?
The Boathouse, Kingairloch, Morvern
Between a rock and a hard place at Glensanda.
A bed of bluebells in the Sound of Mull.

Day two.

Trouble in the Isles
Taking the Sound of Mull to the Next World.
Mines a bacon butty in Lochaline!
A series of juxtapositions in the Sound of Mull.
Tobermory, what's the story?
Sardines and showers in Tobermory.
A barren point and fateful decision.
A banquet in Loch Drumbuie!

Day three.

Misty Morven morning.
Three jewels of Loch Sunart: Oronsay, Loch Teacuis and a buried diamond!
A post prandial doze under the ancient oak woods of Ardnamurchan.
Umbrellas in a sunny Loch Sunart.
All the essential sea kayaking elements round Morvern.















 

A barren point and fateful decision.

We set off from Tobermory, past the RNLI Severn class lifeboat Elizabeth Fairlie Ramsay, to cross the Sound of Mull for the second time that day. We were bound for Auliston Point, the NW tip of Morvern.

Rubha nan Gall lighthouse stands at the  NW entrance to the Sound of Mull with the Ardnamurchan peninsula behind.The lighthouse was built in 1857 by David and Thomas Stevenson. It flashes once every three seconds and was automated in 1960.

I hoped to camp at Auliston Point, perhaps on its summit where the breeze would keep the midges away.

 The sun was now setting quickly, behind Ardnamurchan Point with the open sea behind.

We pressed on in the hope of getting the tents up in daylight.

However, after the creature comforts of Tobermory, David and Phil thought Auliston Point a somewhat barrenlooking place for gentlemen sea kayakers to camp at. We now left the Sound of Mull and paddled into Loch Sunart and the approaching night. They would soon learn the error of their ways....

Sardines and showers in Tobermory.

On landing in Tobermory our first priority was not the Mishnish Bar but the  Fishermans Pier Fish & Chip Van. This has a considerable reputation for a decent fish supper. It was recommended in the Independent's top 50 fish and chip shops last Saturday and even has a  "Les Routiers" award. The fish is cooked to order (as are the frozen chips) so there is a short wait, which always carries the promise of fresh fish. We each decided to order large (rather than regular) haddock suppers, because we were ravenous after paddling for over 30km and still had about another 12km to go to our camp.

Well it was just as well we decided to go large rather than regular. David got the most generous helping but you can see how happy he was about it. Large haddock? It was more like a malnourished sardine. Having said that, it was delicious and expertly cooked with dry crispy batter. Even the frozen chips were very tasty and done to perfection. We left the pier still feeling hungry and the local seagulls were left starving. If the good ladies of the chip van are ever in Kircudbright, they should call in at Polarbites to discover what a large haddock supper actually looks like.

Only partially sated, we wandered round Tobermory Bay to the...

...new Harbour Visitor Centre. This is a superb resource with spotless toilets, showers and laundry, all for a very reasonable charge. This is somewhere any touring sea kayaker in the area should make a point of visiting.

Totally refreshed we wandered round the harbour area. This old wooden rowing boat had seen better days...

...in contrast to the newly arrived and ship shape MS Island Sky which had just emerged from a multimillion pound refit before dropping anchor In Tobermory. Her 116 passengers would be keen to disembark, we had been fed and watered, it was now time to go. Tobermory was a great place to spend some time in.

A series of juxtapositions in the Sound of Mull.

North of Lochaline, the coastline of Morvern becomes much gentler  and is backed by large forestry plantations. It was to here the the last few St Kildans were evacuated in 1930. Those that were able worked in the forests. what a juxtaposition a St Kildan in a forest in Morvern! They had come from an island with no trees!

We found Fiunary boathouse in a little inlet beside Rhubha na h-Airde Luach. It was built about 1820. The air was fragrant with the juxtaposition of two scents: the sweetness of the white hawthorn blossom and the coconut like scent of the yellow gorse.

We continued through a series of rocky skerries...

...but on the other side of the Sound of Mull, the island of Mull began to draw our attention.

Ben More at  966m (3169 feet) is the most southerly island Munro (mountain >3000 feet)  in Scotland. One of the great joys of paddling in west Scotland is the juxtaposition of mountain and loch.

Talking of juxtapositions; paddle, diesel and sail, who has right of way?

The final juxtaposition is the 17th century tower house of Caisteal nan Con (castle of the hounds), which was built on an Iron Age fortified mound.

Mines a bacon butty in Lochaline!

As the flood tide carried us up the Sound of Mull we came to the little village of Lochaline, which nestles on the west side of a narrow inlet that is only 90m wide.

 The in going tide carried us through to Loch Aline at 7km/hr.

You need to be careful to keep out of the way of shipping in this very narrow and tidal channel. The Mull ferry, MV Loch Fyne passes through it nearly 30 times per day on her way to her slipway, which is inside the channel. MV Loch Fyne was built by Fergusons' of Port Glasgow in 1991. She is 54.2m long and can carry 36 cars. She originally served on the Kyle of Loch Alsh crossing to Skye but was moved to here after the Skye bridge was built in 1995.

Loch Aline is a beautiful loch with wooded shores but it has a hidden surprise. It is the site of an underground silica sand mine. It operated from WW2 until 2008 when it closed. The extracted silica is very pure and was loaded directly to ships. It was exported for the manufacture of optical glass.

We decided to land just inside the loch past the ferry jetty and the pier.

In the summer it is a bustling place. You can get water at the pier head.

But we were rather hungry. We were suffering from anaemia after the morning's midge attack. So we stopped at the excellent snack bar for freshly made bacon and egg sandwiches. Yum!

The Sound of Mull is very popular with divers and the Lochaline Dive Centre, just up the hill from the pier, offers accommodation, showers and a cafe with WiFi access. There is also a village shop and petrol station.

At the edge of the village, overlooking the Sound of Mull, you will find the Lochaline Hotel. It has a bar, which can be conveniently accessed from this little beach. Sadly it was still early in the day and the bar had not yet opened, so readers will need to wait for a review of its facilities after a subsequent visit by the thirsty staff of seakayakphoto.com.

Taking the Sound of Mull to the Next World.

The second day of our Morvern trip dawned still and calm but the peace of early morning (and our slumbers) was shattered...

...by the MV Clansman. She is the noisiest of the Calmac ferries at the best of times, as she burns the heaviest grade of fuel oil in her diesels. However, her crankshafts were just about to fail catastrophically and so the decibels this morning were deafening.

Unfortunately the racket had roused every midge in Morvern, as effectively as any luncheon bell. By now Phil was bitterly regretting his lack of protective attire. It is, after all, rather discomfiting to find that one's good self  is no longer top of the food chain.

It was with some relief that we found ourselves on the water and free from the local predators.

The Sound of Mull was like a full length mirror that wonderful morning...

...as it stretched away to near infinity, transporting us into another World.

The water of the Sound remained unruffled, until the flooding tide met with Ardtornish Point, which juts out from the Morvern coast. The modern lighthouse contrasts with the crumbling walls of Ardtornish Castle.

It was at Ardtornish that John of Isla, the first Lord of the Isles, died in about 1386. On the first stage of his journey into the Next World, his remains were carried away up the Sound of Mull by a fleet of birlins. Their destination was the distant and sacred Isle of  Iona. 

We paddled on in the wake of the Lords of the Isles.

A bed of bluebells in the Sound of Mull.

From Glensanda quarry the wild and remote SE coast of Morvern continued for another 12 km...

...until we approached Rubha an Ridire...

...which marked the turning point of our route.

We now ran before the light wind, to the NW, up the Sound of Mull which separates the Island of Mull from the SW coast of Morvern.

It was getting late when we finally arrived at a curving beach at the end of our day.

The sun was setting as we prepared our evening meal on the shore.

Unfortunately as the sun went down, the midges unleashed their attack. David was fine in his jacket but Phil had forgotten his in the rush to pack. Not even a fine malt was able to fully restore Phil's equilibrium.

We went off to explore a nearby bothy...

...as a potential sleeping quarters. It was clean enough but someone had left some food and some well fed mice had pooed and peed everywhere. It did not smell too fresh so we decided to settle...

for camping on the bluebell meadow outside.