Turning a corner on Kerrera

 We were unable to land at Gylen Castle as there was some surf breaking on the steep rocky beach so we carried on towards the south west point of Kerrera. The crashing of the waves on the dark rock of Kerrera was the only sound.

On the way, we passed interesting natural castles of conglomerate rock sitting on top of what looked like a layer of dsark basaltic rock.

The mountains of Mull came in to view as we entered the gap between Rubha nan Feundain and little Bach Island. It was the height of a large spring tide, which was travelling north through the gap at 5km/hour. All was flat as there was almost no wind but this can be a bumpy place in wind over tide conditions. It is also a good spot to see porpoises.

Turning north into the Firth of Lorn, there were no trees on this exposed side of Kerrera.  The shore alternated between steep rocks and great smooth gently sloping slabs of basalt, like natural slipways.

Away to the north, NLV Pole Star was working at navigation buoys on the approach to the Sound of Mull. A blink of sun lit up the snow covered hills of Morvern, contrasting with an otherwise grey sea scape.

Port Phadruaig offered a welcome break for a winter luncheon. We were surrounded by calmness and serenity

Max, the parrot vampire of Kerrera!

We paddled down the Sound of Kerrera under darkening skies.

The great bulk of Scarba appeared in the distance and the wind dropped away to nothing.

The smoke from a lonely cottage on Little Horseshoe Bay curled lazily skyward. It is the home of Yvonne Macmillan and at least a dozen parrots!

Photo STV.

Yvonne has set up a sanctuary for distressed parrots on this remote spot on the island of Kerrera. Parrots are very companionable birds but need a lot of care and attention, otherwise they can develop behaviour problems. The island of Kerrera is now a sanctuary for distressed parrots. Yvonne is a parrot behaviour consultant, possibly the only one in Scotland. In 2009, STV made a charming short film of her interesting story. In it you will hear how a distressed Max bit Yvonne's neck right on the jugular! My father was a vet, my daughter and paddling companion David are vets and I know how pets can enhance peoples lives. It is good to know that people like Yvonne are prepared to look after needy companion animals.

With "Pieces of Eight, Pieces of Eight" and "This parrot is not deceased, it bit my jugular!" ringing in our ears, we  continued down the wooded east coast of Kerrera...

...until we came across the ruins...

...of Gylen Castle, which was quite free of parrots, though it looked spooky enough for more traditional vampires!.

Sea kayaking from Loch Feochan to Loch Etive

A 36km paddle from the south side of Loch Feochan via Oban harbour to Taynuilt pier. It took 2 hours to drive from Glasgow to Taynuilt pier. It took another 1hr 45mins to run the shuttle to Loch Feochan and get on the water.

Tidal streams:

Loch Feochan narrows

At low water the norrows almost dry leaving a norrow channel of about 0.3m. As a result the ingoing flood does not begin until the level outside the narrows has risen by 1m this results in the flood running for only 4 hours and the ebb running for 8 hours.

Ingoing flood begins -o355 HW Oban (+0300 HW Dover) 5 knots springs

Outgoing ebb begins +0030 HW Oban (-0500 Dover) 5 knots springs

HW inside the loch as HW Oban (-0530 HW Dover)

Sound of Kerrera the flood enters the south end and exits the north end by Oban

In mid channel

NE going flood begins +0430 HW Oban (-0100 HW Dover) up to 2.5 knots springs

SW going ebb begins -0155 HW Oban (+0500 HW Dover) up to 2.5 knots springs


Falls of Lora, Loch Etive
These times may vary by up to 0130hrs dependent on meterological conditions, more often occuring earlier rather than later.

West going ebb starts HW Oban +0210 (-0320 HW Dover) 6 knots
Ebb strongest waves HW Oban +0430 till LW Oban

East going flood starts HW Oban -0320 (LW Oban +0250) ( +0335 HW Dover) 6 knots
Best waves HW Oban -0100 till HW Oban +0030

Up to date info on Falls of Lora.

On the day Oban tide times were:
HW 02:10 LW 08:35 HW 16:03 LW 21:06
So, at Falls of Lora:
Flood starts LW Oban +0250 09:25
Best waves HW Oban -0100 15:03 till HW Oban +0030 16:33 (we found only a gentle ingoing current of 1 knot at 1610)
Ebb starts HW Oban +0210 18:13
Strongest waves HW oban +0430 20:33 till LW Oban 21:06

Kilmaronag Narrows, Loch Etive

As Falls of Lora

Bonawe Narrows, Loch Etive

west going ebb starts +0215 HW Oban (-0316 HW Dover) 2.5 knots springs
east going flood starts -0300 HW Oban (+0355 HW Dover) 1.5 knots springs


Loch Feochan narrows looking west to Mull.


Oban nestling under McCaig's Folly on the hill.


Firth of Lorn off Ganavan.


Sunset behind the mountains of Mull from Loch Etive.

An icy start at Loch Feochan.

Stopped in his tracks in Loch Feochan.

A cottage and a castle at Loch Feochan

Luncheon below a volcano.

Arrival in Oban

The Pharos and the Pole Star

Better days for some in Oban harbour.

Dark deeds on the north shore of Oban Bay.

Waving goodbye to Oban.

The skies cleared over the Firth of Lorn.

A welcome break at Ganavan.

All quiet at Dunstaffnage

Made in Scotland from girders and glaciers.

Of time and tide at the Falls of Lora

Last supper at Dun Creagach, Loch Etive

In the picture: a blaze of glory in Glen Etive

The end of a perfect day, in Loch Etive.


Photo album map

Dark deeds on the north shore of Oban Bay.

It was now time to leave the bustle of Oban.


Having said that, it has one of the most picturesque settings of any Scottish sea side town. Oban Bay is protected by the lovely isle of Kerrera, seen here on the right. The narrow Sound of Kerrera stretches away to the south west. The distant island of Insh can be seen through the far entrance to the Sound. Oban Marina is actually situated on Kerrera with a water bus to connect to Oban. The marina welcomes visiting sea kayakers, they have showers, laundry and a restaurant.


We made our way along Oban Bay's north shore, past the diminutive lighthouse...


...and the imposing bulk of Dunollie Castle. The keep dates from the 15th century but the first fortifications date from the 7th. It belonged to the MacDougall clan, the Lords of Lorn, who at one time owned a third of Scotland! Apparently they were quite a rough lot!


As we approached the mouth of the Bay, we came to...


...little Maiden Island. The island has a dark legend attached to its past. A young girl was tied to the rocks at low tide to persuade her to admit to witchcraft or the like. However, she did not admit any guilt and the tide came in and drowned her.


As we reflected on this dark past, the skies to the north west lightened...

Arrival in Oban

A rumble of engines coming down the Sound roused us from our reverie in the Tolkienesque landscape of Lorn. It was the MV Isle of Mull, en route from Oban to Scalasaig on Colonsay.


We were soon back on the water and Jim B got some edging practice in...


...below the grounds of Gallanach House.


It was not long before we were approaching the north end of the island of Kerrera.


We then turned a corner and there we were, right in the midst of the hubbub of Oban harbour, round which the town nestles below McCaig's Folly, which is perched on the hill above.

Luncheon below a volcano.

We turned north east from the mouth of Loch Feochan and entered the Sound of Kerrera which would take us to Oban harbour.


The steep rocks that rise from the shore of the sound show much evidence of volcanic activity.


Indeed we could see that Dun Ormidale is a former volcanic vent. There is an Iron Age fort on its summit, which takes advantage of its natural defensive structure.


We decided to stop for luncheon on the beach at Port Lathaich below the fort.


A variety of post-prandial malts were sampled on the shore.

Fleeting wraiths of fog in the Sound of Kerrera

We continued to paddle through swirling fog...


...until we drew level with the Sgeirean Dubha reef. The light shows two white flashes every 12 seconds. The present structure replaced the previous light on 11th January 2002.


Then, magically, the wraiths of fog seemed to melt away and the sun took command of the day.



As we approached the southern point of Kerrera the deciduous tree cover became less...


...and the landscape took on a wilder grandeur. Headland after headland rolled by in the sunshine but at sea the fog still held sway.


Then suddenly, the fog lifted and revealed the scattered necklace of the Isles of Lorn.


We had now arrived at Rubha Seanach and had a clear view to distant Insh Island. What would we find once we had turned west round the point?

Better Days in The Little Horseshoe Bay

In a break in the fog, we saw a row of neat little white washed cottages at the back of the perfect crescent of The Little Horseshoe Bay.


As we approached, it was obvious that this bay had been settled for a very long time. The grassy hillock at the entrance to the bay has a flat top which betrays it as an Iron Age hill fort.


The cottages were originally built for slate workers who worked at quarries at the south of the island. When the quarries failed a lobster industry became established here and the workers boxed lobsters for delivery to London and Southampton by train. Orders were delivered by telegraph and telegram boys from Oban Post Office. The business boomed to such an extent that Kerrera was the first Scottish island to get a telephone line installed! Today the only sign of activity was a sole oystercatcher which kept an eye on us from the safety of the beach.


Hidden away in a corner of the bay lay this sad old fishing boat. Her paint had all but peeled from her grey timbers. I could not even make out the name, under which she was once sailed with pride. Even her iron rubbing strakes had sprung free of their fastenings and come to rest at an angle on the shore, as if in a forlorn attempt to keep her upright.

Sadly, she has seen better days. Just like the boats of the Iron Age settlers before her, one day she will be gone, without a trace.

Black and white in the Sound of Kerrera

From Aradantrive Bay we paddled down the Sound of Kerrera to Heather Island. The fog seemed to suck all colour from the land and sea-scapes.


There was no wind to disperse the fog and glassy calm conditions reflected the sun, which occasionally broke through a thinner layer.


On the mainland side of the Sound, the Ardbhan Craigs rose into the mist. These steep cliffs with a raised beach at their foot were cut when the sea level was higher.


We arrived at Kerrera's jetty where the ferry, the MV Isle of Kerrera , was tied up. She is powered by two 75hp Honda outboards. The ferryman, Duncan McEachan, will go over to the mainland if an intending passenger turns a white board so that its black side faces Kerrera.