A rough crossing to the Rough Islands.

The weather forecast for the long weekend was pretty poor but there was to be a brief weather window on the Sunday. After an early start, David, Jennifer, Tony and I made our way up to the Island of Seil. Our plan was a dry trip to the Garvellach Islands that lie in the tides that sweep between Scarba and Mull. We were on the water in time to catch the 10:15 ebb express for the Garvellachs!


With Insh and Mull on the horizon, we had a brief dally with the reefs at the north end of Easdale...


...before the tide carried us at a steady 7-8km/hr towards the SW and Dun Chonnuil, the nearest island. Jura and distant Islay lay away to the SW.


The water was calm in the light winds, but Jennifer remembered the last time we were here...

...imagine a very rough sea at this point! My camera was firmly in its waterproof bag and it was even too rough to take a photo with the little one handed waterproof Sony! The ebb tide flows SW down the SE coast of the Garvellachs but when the tide is running at its maximum, an eddy flows NE up the NW coast of Dun Chonnuil. Where this meets the main flow there is very confused water. Our progress slowed from about 8km/hr with gentle paddling down to 2km/hr with vigorous paddling down the NW side of Dun Chonnuil. Bracing as they say!


Fortunately it didn't last long and we were soon in calmer water as we...


... approached the wooded slopes of the NE end of Garbh Eileach, the largest island, after which the Garvellachs take their name. It means the Rough Island.

Dark deeds on the north shore of Oban Bay.

It was now time to leave the bustle of Oban.


Having said that, it has one of the most picturesque settings of any Scottish sea side town. Oban Bay is protected by the lovely isle of Kerrera, seen here on the right. The narrow Sound of Kerrera stretches away to the south west. The distant island of Insh can be seen through the far entrance to the Sound. Oban Marina is actually situated on Kerrera with a water bus to connect to Oban. The marina welcomes visiting sea kayakers, they have showers, laundry and a restaurant.


We made our way along Oban Bay's north shore, past the diminutive lighthouse...


...and the imposing bulk of Dunollie Castle. The keep dates from the 15th century but the first fortifications date from the 7th. It belonged to the MacDougall clan, the Lords of Lorn, who at one time owned a third of Scotland! Apparently they were quite a rough lot!


As we approached the mouth of the Bay, we came to...


...little Maiden Island. The island has a dark legend attached to its past. A young girl was tied to the rocks at low tide to persuade her to admit to witchcraft or the like. However, she did not admit any guilt and the tide came in and drowned her.


As we reflected on this dark past, the skies to the north west lightened...

Google maps, short by an Insh!

Back in early February, we found ourselves all ready for another adventure. After an early start, we were ready to launch at 0915 from Ellenabeich on the island of Seil in the Firth of Lorn.


We had in mind a bold route for a short winter's day. It would take us 44km across to the island of Mull into Loch Spelvie, portage into fresh water Loch Uisg then portage into Loch Buie. The final 24km leg would be done without landing and would involve crossing the Firth of Lorn at night with an ebb tide to contend with.


We chose to launch from the Easdale ferry slipway because of my bad knee. Normally we launch down a rocky beach from the large car park to the north of here. You do need to be quick to keep out of the way of the ferry as it only takes a few minutes to cross back and forwards.


We were bound first of all for the north end of the rocky little island of Insh. Sadly neither Insh nor the neighbouring Garvellachs and Slate Islands seem to be important enough to be shown on the otherwise excellent Google maps!!


Looking to the south west there was a wonderful prospect down the Sound of Insh. The bold outline of Scarba with the Slate Islands in front, then more distant Jura. Nearer at hand the Garvellachs with distant Islay behind then finally the steep eastern slopes of Insh.


As we approached Insh the ebb tide became stronger and we rested for a while in a kelp bed behind a shallow reef...


...before a final sprint, under the distant mountains of Argyll...


...took us to the rugged red rocks of Insh.

Google Maps really don't know what they are missing!

Fleeting wraiths of fog in the Sound of Kerrera

We continued to paddle through swirling fog...


...until we drew level with the Sgeirean Dubha reef. The light shows two white flashes every 12 seconds. The present structure replaced the previous light on 11th January 2002.


Then, magically, the wraiths of fog seemed to melt away and the sun took command of the day.



As we approached the southern point of Kerrera the deciduous tree cover became less...


...and the landscape took on a wilder grandeur. Headland after headland rolled by in the sunshine but at sea the fog still held sway.


Then suddenly, the fog lifted and revealed the scattered necklace of the Isles of Lorn.


We had now arrived at Rubha Seanach and had a clear view to distant Insh Island. What would we find once we had turned west round the point?

The Sounds of Luing and Cuan

On leaving the Grey Dogs, we entered the Sound of Luing and made our way up the east coast of Lunga. This is one of the surviving houses. We then entered the maze of tidal channels between the north of Lunga and its neighbouring islands.


Returning to the Sound of Luing again, we started a ferry glide across the now flooding north going tide. We were headed for the island of Luing on the east side of the sound. Looking north we could see all the way up the Sound to Insh, Fladda with its lighthouse, Easdale and Seil.


Looking south down the Sound, the tumbling crags of Scarba were lost in the mist.


Working our way up the east shore of the Sound the tide accelerated us north past Dubh Sgeir with its light and the lighthouse of Fladda.


We found the MFV Rambling Rose tied up in the sheltered inlet of Cullipool. In 2001 she went to the rescue of a yacht which went aground in a force 8 August gale, the family were saved including their 18 month old baby. The Rambling Rose was a scallop dredger operated by brothers Eoghann and Alastair MacLachlan. The Scottish Government recently banned scallop dredging in the Firth of Lorn and she has been modified for prawn fishing.


Rounding the northern end of Luing, we paddled east into the Cuan Sound between Luing and Seil. We eddy hopped through the Sound against the west going flood spring tide.


Turning round, we blasted back down the Sound..


...until we were ejected into the Firth of Lorn. The Island of Mull provided a backdrop as we made our way back to our starting point at Ellenabeich on Seil.

What a fantastic weekend in the tides between these glorious islands.

31/08/2008