Sea kayaking round Luing.

 Circumnavigation of Luing: a 32km day trip from Ellenabeich, Seil, January 2011.

18.2 km/hr in the Cuan Sound, between Luing and Seil.

The tide times in the Cuan Sound and the Grey Dogs (also the Corryvreckan) are influenced by low pressure Atlantic systems and can be difficult to predict within an hour's accuracy. However, in a high pressure system they are much more predictable, though times vary between springs and neaps.

The north and west going flood begins +0430 HW Oban (-0100 HW Dover)  at 7 to 8 knots at springs and +0515 HW Oban (-0015 HW Dover) at neaps.

The south and east going ebb begins -0145 HW Oban (+0515 HW Dover) up to 8 knots at springs and -0100 HW Oban (+0600 HW Dover) at neaps.

The time changes by 6.5 minutes each day between springs and neaps. The constant between HW Dover and HW Oban does vary, so most accurate times are calculated by using HW Oban times (though not if you have calculated HW Oban indirectly from HW Dover!!).

On the day, HW Oban was at 0749 and 2011 and it was 1 day after springs so the time had drifted 6.5 minutes from the spring time. So the north and west going flood started about 0749 + 0436 = 1225 and the south and east going ebb started at 0749 - 0139 = 0610. We were on the water by 0955.



The Grey Dogs were salivating, while awaiting our arrival.


Ferry gliding in the Grey Dogs.


A sting in the tail of the Sound of Shuna.


Toberonochy, what's the story?


The stirring sound of moving water in the Cuan Sound.


Darkness stole across the Isles of the Sea.

Ferry gliding in the Grey Dogs.

We arrived at the Grey Dogs when there was still plenty of ebb left in their bite! Here Jim is ferrying ith the current running from left to right at 7 knots.

On the ebb when the tide is east going, it is usual to pass through the Dogs from west to east, through the broader south channel. But we were here to play so we spent time ferrying the north channel...

... and round Eilean a'Bhealaich, which sits mid channel where it is isolated by the swirling tides.

Away to the south west, through the Grey Dogs, we could see Colonsay on the horizon.


I have pretty crappy paddle technical skills but there are some things in this video (taken by Jennifer) that might be helpful to paddlers progressing to more tidal paddling.

The current in the centre of the channel is flowing right to left at 7 knots and eddies either side are flowing left to right with fairly sharp eddy lines with swirly bits.

Note the acceleration out the eddy on the far side, I cross the eddy and hold a high angle (bow pointing well upstream) as the current is quite fast.

It's really too far too far away to see, but I have lifted my left, upstream edge to ferry across.  (I well remember the first time I crossed a fast river eddyline in a Pyrannha H2 kayak, without lifting an edge. I was upside down before you could say "Edge"!)

Sometimes to maintain a high angle and stop my bow being swept down stream I put a quick double stroke in on the right downstream edge.

Once I am nearly across, note the lifting of the right, "downstream edge as I cross the eddyline and meet the eddy current which is flowing "upstream"..

I have my skeg up. Of course an expert would have such perfect edge control on a ferry glide that they really would hardly have to use the paddle at all....

All too soon it was time to leave the Grey Dogs. You can see the two rock formations, like dogs' heads behind Phil and David, which might give the channel its name. What a fun place!

The Garvellachs from Seil

A 32km day trip round the Garvellach islands from Ellenabeich on Seil. August 2010.


the NW coast of Eileach na Naoimh.

Tidal streams from Insh Island to the north end of the Sound of Luing:
+0430 HW Oban (-0100 HW Dover) north-east going flood begins.
-0155 HW Oban (+0500 HW Dover) south-west going ebb begins.

The spring rate is 6-7 knots through the islands at the N end of the Sound of Luing. On the N going stream a strong tide race extends from Rhubha Fiola to Ormsa then past the SW side of Belnahua. Between the Garvellachs and the Black Islands the spring rate 2-3knots. On the west side of Lunga the spring rate is from 3-3.5knots. South of Insh Island, the spring rate is 1-1.5knots.

Eddys are frequent, especially round the north end of the Garvellachs.

On the day, it was 4 days after springs Oban HW 0915 LW 1531 HW 2138. We left Ellenabeich at 1015, the SW ebb had started at 0720. On the return we left Garbh Eileach at 1605, the NE flood had started at 13:45. We returned to Ellenabeich at 1757.

A rough crossing to the Rough Islands.

Sea kayaking under the west coast cliffs of Garbh Eileach.

A fishless lunch on Eileach an Naoimh.

Garvellachs rock face.

The great eagle of Eileach an Naoimh.

Return tickets for the Sound of Luing express.

Bear right at Belnahua!

An encounter with Loti on an uneasy sea.

A unobstructed view thanks to midges and shaggy dogs.


Photo album map. (Note that Google maps know nothing of the Garvellachs or Insh Island!)

Givin' the Dogs the slip!

Although there was some growling from the throat of the Dogs and the occasional fleck of saliva, all looked remarkably calm and, much to Phil and Jennifer's relief, we slipped past the Grey Dogs on our way north to the tip of Rubha Fiola.


Scarba slipped astern but still dominated the skyline above the east coast of Lunga.


Ahead lay Fladda lighthouse backed by the island of Seil and the distant mountains of Morvern. Fladda light was built by David and Thomas Stevenson in 1860. The light flashes white from north through east to south and flashes red to the north and there are red and green sectors to the south. There is a large walled garden in which the keepers grew vegetables. Our speed increased as we passed Lunga and increased to 12km/hr before we reached our turning point of Rubha Fiola.


Rounding the point at the north end of Rubha Fiola, we were fortunate that the current on the west side was much less, even at the height of the tidal flow. We had now entered the Firth of Lorn and a dramatic coastline lay ahead, with the headlands of Rhubha Fiola, Lunga, Scarba and distant Jura all blocking our way back to Crinan.


It was about this point that Jennifer and Phil realised that we were now committed to returning either by the Grey Dogs or the great Gulf of Corryvreckan...


...so they consoled one another with some Jelly Beans!

Relaxing, with the roaring of the Dogs in our ears.

The tides carried us north at 8km/hr out of the Sound of Jura into the Sound of Luing, which separates Scarba on the west from Luing on the east.


The east coast of Scarba is sheltered from the prevailing wind and has a thick growth of deciduous woodland. Both red and fallow deer can be seen here. Kilmory Lodge lies 88m above sea level while the summit of Cruach Scarba 449m towers high above.


We had now been paddling for two hours and ten minutes. Even with tidal assistance, we were ready for lunch by the time we reached Poll na h'Ealaidh, Scarba's sole claim to anything resembling a harbour. The view to the north, through the Sound of Luing and across the Firth of Lorn ended in the distant mountains of Mull and Morvern.


We walked out to the end of the pier, hardly able to believe that we had just paddled all the way from the distant hills of Knapdale behind us.


We had a leisurely lunch while the tide built up to full speed in the nearby Grey Dogs, which lie between Scarba and the steep rocky knolls of Lunga to the north. Relaxing afterwards, with the roaring of the Dogs in our ears, Tony helped put Phil at ease by telling him about the huge standing waves we would encounter in the races ahead. "You'll be fine Phil, it's easier when the waves are bigger than 8 feet, they're more spaced out!"

Friends to watch over you

Looking back at the Grey Dogs, from a distance of over 2km, it all seemed so calm and innocent.


To the north the mountains of Mull dominated the distant horizon. The long necklace of islands that make up the Garvellachs and the Black Islands lay in the middle distance and little Guirasdeal and Lunga were in the foreground. What a magnificent playground.


We paddled below the dark cliffs of the north shore of Scarba.


We were watched from upon high.


Rounding the NW corner of Scarba, distant Islay and Jura came into sight. We were now paddling on the open Atlantic and the swell increased.


We found a little scrap of beach with some shelter from a reef. Tony and Phil went in first. I made a very awkward landing. Then Tony got a good hold of my boat and Phil lifted me right out and up onto my feet. They then carried my boat well above the surge line. I had been fine when paddling, with my injured knee in its brace under my dry trousers, but I now realised how dependent I was on the others for landings.

Thanks guys, I could not have managed this trip without you!

:o)

Sleeping Grey Dogs

Leaving the Pool of the Song, we felt another pull. This time it was the pull of the Grey Dogs tidal race. It was spring tides maximum flow and there was not a breath of wind so we could hear the Dogs growling from some way off. Phil said "We are not going through there are we?"

"Oh no!" said Tony, quite truthfully, as we carefully vetted the Dogs' condition through the south channel before...


...turning in to the straighter north channel. Just as we passed the point of no return, Tony quietly said "Phil, see when we turn the corner, just after this wee island? Just keep paddling".


Tony led the way down the inverted "V" between the worst of the eddylines as the water sloped downhill between the gap. Phil stuck to his stern. I brought up the rear, ready to pick up any pieces.


There was ony about 4 or 5 standing waves and then we were through onto flat, boily water at 18km/hour.


The stirred up water extends...


...well to the west of the Dogs.


But at last we hit calm water again. Phil was noticably moved by his recent experience. "Was that like a grade 4 river?" he asked. We hadn't the heart to tell him it was only grade 2!


By now Phil had regained his composure: "What an experience !.. Only one thing guys... Where is my badge ?"

"Now, now, Phil, if it's wee bajes yer efter, ye'll jus' need tae jine a club!"

We were very lucky to hit the Grey Dogs when they were sleeping. If there is any westerly wind or swell then they can be rather different.


We would not have taken Phil through the Grey Dogs...


...if we had found conditions to be like these two recent trips.

The Sounds of Luing and Cuan

On leaving the Grey Dogs, we entered the Sound of Luing and made our way up the east coast of Lunga. This is one of the surviving houses. We then entered the maze of tidal channels between the north of Lunga and its neighbouring islands.


Returning to the Sound of Luing again, we started a ferry glide across the now flooding north going tide. We were headed for the island of Luing on the east side of the sound. Looking north we could see all the way up the Sound to Insh, Fladda with its lighthouse, Easdale and Seil.


Looking south down the Sound, the tumbling crags of Scarba were lost in the mist.


Working our way up the east shore of the Sound the tide accelerated us north past Dubh Sgeir with its light and the lighthouse of Fladda.


We found the MFV Rambling Rose tied up in the sheltered inlet of Cullipool. In 2001 she went to the rescue of a yacht which went aground in a force 8 August gale, the family were saved including their 18 month old baby. The Rambling Rose was a scallop dredger operated by brothers Eoghann and Alastair MacLachlan. The Scottish Government recently banned scallop dredging in the Firth of Lorn and she has been modified for prawn fishing.


Rounding the northern end of Luing, we paddled east into the Cuan Sound between Luing and Seil. We eddy hopped through the Sound against the west going flood spring tide.


Turning round, we blasted back down the Sound..


...until we were ejected into the Firth of Lorn. The Island of Mull provided a backdrop as we made our way back to our starting point at Ellenabeich on Seil.

What a fantastic weekend in the tides between these glorious islands.

31/08/2008

By Lunga to Guirasdeal

From Fladda we headed for Rubha Fiola, a tidal islet at the north end of Lunga. This is at slack water. On the full ebb you can find a swirling whirlpool here.


We then followed the west coast of Lunga. The summit of distant Scarba was lost in glowering clouds.


At last, after battling into the wind, we caught sight of our next destination; the fair isle of Guirasdeal.


Guirasdeal is one of the smallest of the Slate Islands but its rocky little summit is 32m high and makes one of the finest viewpoints in the area. Not only that, it was time for lunch!

30/08/2008

The Dog's Bollocks

Tony prepares the balls!


Then he tossed them into the slavering jowls of the Grey Dogs tidal race....


and they promptly disappeared over the horizon into the sunset.