Lobsters, tides, caves and headlands on the Rhins of Galloway.

 We were not the only ones going round the Mull of Galloway that day...

 ...Tony Patterson and crew in BA852 Valodest were...

 also taking advantage of the calm and slack water to lift their lobster pots.

We decided not to land at West Tarbert as there were "wild" campers in residence. I am surprised there is any grass left there. Everyone makes a fresh fire ring on the grass.

 Instead we proceeded north up the west coast of the Rhins of Galloway ...

 ...along an amazing coastline and soon...

 ...we had left the Mull of Galloway and its lighthouse far behind.

 As we crossed Carrickamickie Bay the tide began to pick up until...

 ...there were standing waves and a slope on the water at a gap off Carrickallan Point.

 Beyond the point we entered a calmer eddy and then came to a series...

 ...of caves, at Carrickahawkie,...

  ...Slocknagower and...

 ......Port Mona.

By now we could see Crammag Head, the next bit of tidal fun but we decided to stop for first luncheon to let the tide build up a bit....

Any port in a storm #2

All round the Scottish coastline, even in the remotest parts, there are place names such as Port Bhan or White Port in either Gaelic or English. These signify little coves in which our seafaring ancestors could land a small boat, if caught by a storm.


Needless to say, these make ideal places to stop for either a late breakfast or an early luncheon.


In this case, it was just past 11am, so it was an early luncheon. Phil was most concerned as he momentarily couldn't find the Glenlivet anywhere and a luncheon without Glenlivet... why, it is no luncheon at all. Indeed, it should only be considered as a late breakfast!


David then spread our victuals out. A bottle of fine vintage port, some extra mature Stilton, some pheasant pate and crackers.


We scoffed the lot, then washed it down with the Glenlivet and all before the sun had passed the yardarm.

From this day hence, let this cove be known as PORT STILTON!

The Mull of Galloway tide race, at full belt!

A day trip round the Mull of Galloway, a 21km paddle from East Tarbert Bay to Port Logan, taking in the Mull of Galloway tide race. December 2009.


The Mull of Galloway tide race at full belt.

Destination, the Mull of Galloway.

Sunny skies and calm seas.

Sea kayaking the Mull of Galloway.

Hiding in Lunnock Cave, Mull of Galloway.

P&H Cetus excels as a photography platform.

Mull of Galloway to Gallie Craig.

Taking in a Kindram or two on the Rhinns of Galloway.

Picnic at Rainbow Rock!

The pot at the end of Rainbow Rock.

Transition from the terrestrial to the maritime.

Crammag Head.

The Silurian simian sentinel of Breddoch Bay.

Port Logan sunset.

"It was at the Mull of Galloway...and this giant wave..."

Port Logan sunset

By now we had left Lagantalluch Head far behind and the adverse effects of the flood tide were diminishing. We now paddled deeper into the great bay south of the Mull of Logan...


...and by the time we rounded Cairnywellan Head, the tide was almost imperceptible.


We entered Port Logan Bay as the sun was setting...


...and at last our keels kissed the sand of Port Logan harbour. We stretched our stiff legs in the chill air of the approaching night. We had only covered 21 km but for much of that distance we had encountered adverse eddies or tides. We were now quite tired and thirsty!

The Silurian simian sentinel of Breddoch Bay

After Crammag Head, the next headland was Laggantalluch Head where we passed the sea stack of Scutching Stock...


...the Cave of the Saddle...


...Ape Rock, which stands like a simian sentinel above Breddock Bay...


...and the incredibly folded and shattered strata of Muddioch Rock.


From the rocks of South Lennans, we could see the distant Mull of Logan. David was getting very tired and was very pleasantly surprised that our destination was in Logan Bay on this side of the Mull.


The delicate Lennans Waterfall poured straight over more stratified rocks, which had been folded to almost ninety degrees from their original horizontal alignment. At the foot of the waterfall there is yet another cave.


Finally, we found there had been a recent landslide at Green Saddle. There was a lovely little flat area of grass, ideal for camping, below where tons and tons of broken rock now lie. There might be a lesson there...

Transition from the terrestrial to the maritime.

After luncheoning launching looked like it would be quite interesting.


Fortunately there were many hands...


...to assist me in my transition from the terrestrial to the maritime.

The pot at the end of Rainbow Rock.

The beach at Rainbow Rock is a lively place...


...the stone cobbles have been worn smooth by constant wave action.


Even the bedrock has had hollows worn away by cobbles. We looked in several of these "pots" but there was no gold at the end of this rainbow...


...just the lovely gold lichens on its rocks.

Picnic at Rainbow Rock!

Crossing Carrickahawkie Bay at 1225 we found an eddy to be running against us though inshore slack water was not due to 1253. In the last half of the ebb you will meet many counter eddies on this trip. In the distance we could see Crammag Head and ideally it would have been nice to get round before stopping for lunch. However, the stop after the Head at Portencorkie Bay is rather unpleasant. It attracts piles of rotting seaweed and garbage. It is not the sort of place for a seakayakphoto.com luncheon.


Tony and I had a plan! Just before Slew-whan Point there is an intriguing geological feature which we call Rainbow Rock.


Its real name is Broad Stone of Portdown and it has a steep cobble beach at its foot.


Landing here can be tricky but Tony and Jim provided sterling assistance in getting me out of my kayak...


...before helping the others...


...one by one.


Soon we were all safely ashore, with the kayaks above the surf.


We were now ready for our luncheon and what a spot!

Taking in a Kindram or two on the Rhinns of Galloway

Long after we left the Mull of Galloway, we were still surrounded by its "nine tides", which are woven by an old witch. As we were paddling in the last 3 hours of the ebb, we met a strong counter eddy running east from Port Kemin.


We now crossed Carrickamickie Bay and...


...entered the West Bay of Slauchmorrie.


Now we found ourselves under...


...the great rock walls...


...of the Nick of Kindram.


Talking of Kindrams, David looked like he had enjoyed one or two Kindrams the night before!