Gentle undulations on an otherwise empty sea.

 In the middle of the Firth of Lorn the wind had dropped to nothing as we paddled east towards Seil. Away to the south lay...

 ...the Garvellachs upon which we had stood the previous day. Behind them the brooding bulk of Scarba lay between the two tide races of Corryvreckan and Grey Dogs.

The Isle of Seil lay before us with the mountains of the mainland rising beyond, some 41 kilometers distant.

As we admired the undulating ridge of Ben Cruachan (1126m), we were paddling over gentle undulations on an otherwise empty sea.

The sainted rocks were as slippery as an eel.

It was a big spring tide and as it was now low water on Eileach an Naoimh (Isle of the Saints) our heavily laden boats were left high and dry. The very rocks where once the saints had trod were now a treacherous, slippery trap for itinerant sea kayakers. Not having the patience of  saints, we did not wish to wait until the tide came back in and so we carried the boats to the water. It was the hottest day in the year and we were completely exhausted by the time we had the boats afloat.

My "good" left knee suffered a very painful dislocation here and it was at this point that I knew that I would inevitably need an operation on it as well. (It was finally operated on, two and a half years later, in November 2013. I am still recovering and off the water.)

Despite my sore knee, I took pity on this little eel. It was lying in a partly desiccated state, half out of a little crack in the rocks in which it had tried to escape from the sun. Unfortunately it was too big to get fully  in. I put it into the sea and it seemed to recover a little...

Possibly the base for a standing cross.

We made our way down from the summit ridge of Eileach an Naoimh to the site of what is reputed to be the site of  the grave of Eithne who was the mother of St Columba.

St Columba had followed St Brendan from Ireland, bringing Christianity to the west coast of Scotland. He founded a monastery and church on Iona. However, it thought that he and the monks came to Eileach an Naoimh on religious retreats. They knew the island as Hinba.

The summit ridge of Eileach an Naoimh.

 The rough stone platform where we had stopped for lunch on Eileach an Naoimh was...

 ...encrusted by beautiful alpine plants and lichens.

 The meadow above was composed of lush grass and a perfusion of wild flowers.

 We started to climb high above the meadow to...

 ...the spine of the island from which we had a marvellous view NE up the chain of the Garvellachs to the Firth of Lorn with the Slate Islands beyond. Ben Cruachan on the mainland can just be seen mid horizon.

 In the heat it was a real relief to reach the summit trig point (77m) and look...

 ...SW to Jura, Islay and Colonsay. The Paps of Jura can be seen just to the left of the trig point.

We walked down the ridge until we came to a point where we could see the lighthouse with Islay on the horizon.

By the time we climbed back to the summit of Eilach na Naoimh it had started to cloud over from the NW. The air became less hazy and we had a great view of Ben More and the entrance to beautiful Loch Buie on Mull. Loch Buie would be our next destination.

A harp and beehives on the Isle of the Saints.

We now slipped through the narrow channel between the SW end of Garbh Eileach and A' Chuli leaving the wild NW coast of the Garvellachs in our wakes.

A'Chuli is smaller and lower than its neighbouring isles. There are no beaches and the seals and cormorants just about have it to themselves.

SW of A'Chuli we came to the next island, Eileach an Naoimh (Isle of the Saints). This fine rock arch is known as An Carclach (The Harp)

By now we were needing a break and we stopped in the little inlet...

... which once served...

...the monastery that was founded here by St Brendan in AD542. The beehive cells on the island may be the oldest ecclesiastical buildings in Britain. As we ate our lunch we enjoyed a fantastic view over the Firth of Lorn to Scarba and Jura.

The smell of the sea hung in the air of Garbh Eileach.

We paddled across the channel which separates Dun Chonnuill  from Garbh Eilleach which is the biggest and roughest of the Garvellachs group of islands. Its name means Rough Island and though its NE tip is pleasantly wooded it...

 ...generally lives up to its name, as we discovered when we started to paddle down the steep cliffs which...

 ... line its exposed NW shore. The island is nearly...

  ...split in two at one point, at a gap called Bealach an Tarabairt, though I can't imagine anyone wanting to portage the rough ground. (A place name of "Tarbert" or similar usually means a portage.)

 Towards the SW end of Garbh Eileach the lazy swell was surging up the dark rocks...

...and exploding in cascades of spray, which drifted in the still air and cooled us. The smell of the sea hung in the air and our nostrils.

Crossing to the Garvellachs, the Isles of the Sea.

A big spring tide was ebbing down the Firth of Lorn. Soon we were making good speed at 9-10km/hr towards our halfway point the lonely rocks...

... of Dubh-feith. From the rocks we had a wonderful view...

.... to the south over the Slate Islands of Lunga and Eilean Dubh Mohr to the bulk of Scarba beyond.

However, our main attention  was drawn to the Garvellachs, which we were rapidly approaching. Despite the SW direction of the ebb tide, there is a NE going eddy, which curls round the NE end of Dun Chonuill (the first of the Garvellachs). It then joins the main SW flow, which goes down the SE of the islands. In a wind this eddyline can be an excitingly rough area. Even in no wind there was enough disturbance on the eddyline to get our faces wet. Our progress slowed to 2 km/hr until we entered the calm beyond. We had arrived at the Garvellachs, the Isles of the Sea..

From the Slate Islands to the Isles of the Sea.

It was midsummer several years ago, when Jennifer, Phil and I met below the whitewashed cottages that fringe at the little harbour at Ellenabeich on the Isle of Seil.

The harbour  was built to service the slate industry, which once flourished in these islands. They were known as the Slate Islands or the "Islands that roofed the World".

We were sweating in the hot sun by the time we launched below the cliffs of Dun Mor that back the harbour. So it was with great feelings of lightness and anticipation...

...that we glided over the cool sea to the skerries of Easdale.

Beyond the swell breaking on the reefs of the Slate Islands lay our destination, the Garvellachs...the Isles of the Sea.

Darkness stole across the Isles of the Sea.

The entrance of the Cuan Sound can be a bit bouncy as the flood tide jets out into the Firth of Lorn...

... but it soon flattened off as paddled up the west coast of Seil.

The sun was setting in the SW as we approached the village of Ellenabeich.

As we drifted north with the now gentle tide we looked back to Scarba, Lunga, the Black Islands and the Garvellachs.

The sun dipped behind the Garvellachs and darkness stole across the Isles of the Sea. Our voyage amongst the islands and the tides that rush between them was over.

The Garvellachs from Seil

A 32km day trip round the Garvellach islands from Ellenabeich on Seil. August 2010.


the NW coast of Eileach na Naoimh.

Tidal streams from Insh Island to the north end of the Sound of Luing:
+0430 HW Oban (-0100 HW Dover) north-east going flood begins.
-0155 HW Oban (+0500 HW Dover) south-west going ebb begins.

The spring rate is 6-7 knots through the islands at the N end of the Sound of Luing. On the N going stream a strong tide race extends from Rhubha Fiola to Ormsa then past the SW side of Belnahua. Between the Garvellachs and the Black Islands the spring rate 2-3knots. On the west side of Lunga the spring rate is from 3-3.5knots. South of Insh Island, the spring rate is 1-1.5knots.

Eddys are frequent, especially round the north end of the Garvellachs.

On the day, it was 4 days after springs Oban HW 0915 LW 1531 HW 2138. We left Ellenabeich at 1015, the SW ebb had started at 0720. On the return we left Garbh Eileach at 1605, the NE flood had started at 13:45. We returned to Ellenabeich at 1757.

A rough crossing to the Rough Islands.

Sea kayaking under the west coast cliffs of Garbh Eileach.

A fishless lunch on Eileach an Naoimh.

Garvellachs rock face.

The great eagle of Eileach an Naoimh.

Return tickets for the Sound of Luing express.

Bear right at Belnahua!

An encounter with Loti on an uneasy sea.

A unobstructed view thanks to midges and shaggy dogs.


Photo album map. (Note that Google maps know nothing of the Garvellachs or Insh Island!)

An encounter with Loti on an uneasy sea.

Long after we had left Belnahua we were still being carried north at 9-11km/hr on an uneasy sea. Wind against tide here can be an interesting experience. Fortunately there was not a breath of wind.


Looking back to the Garvellachs, we could just make out the outline of Colonsay to their right side.


Soon we left the isolated rocks of Dubh-fheith behind.


As we approached Easdale, the evening Cal-Mac ferry...


...passed on her way to Colonsay from Oban. She is the MV Lord of the Isles. Loti as she is affectionately known is 84.6m long and was built in 1989 at Port Glasgow on the Clyde.