A ferry glide across the Sound of Jura

No sooner had we launched into Tarbert Bay than we came across this otter. Tony and I had seen it in exactly the same spot a year previously. We now set off to paddle across the Sound of Jura. We had set off from Carsaig Bay some 14km to the NE and the SW going tide was now well into its third hour of ebb.

There was hardly any wind but it was forecast to get up to F5 from the  north in the afternoon when the tide would have turned to north going. This would make for rather unpleasant conditions so we decided to return via Loch Sween to Tayvallich where we had left one of our cars.

We decided to ferry across the Sound of Jura on the ebb. Mike was very keen to visit the MacCormaig Islands but although the current mid channel was only 1.5 knots, it increases as you approach the east side and runs at 4 knots round the MacCormaigs at springs (which it was). I have missed the MacCormaigs before due to underestimating the tide so decided to make use of a NE going eddy which took us 1km up stream before setting off on the crossing.

 We then ferried across on 110 degrees magnetic and that...

 ...soon had us in mid channel and then into...

 ...an eddy in a kelp bed to north of the isolated rocky isle of Carraig an Daimh where...

 ...we regrouped to discuss strategy. We were now in an ideal position to run down tide to the MacCormaig Islands but Ian and I both had 200 mile drives home. So we decided to give the MacCormaigs a miss and...

 ...paddle from the rocky islands towards...

 ...the Island of Danna at the mouth of Loch Sween where...

 ...we landed on a white sand bay to...

 ...take luncheon. Anywhere else this would have been another spot of Heaven but it did feel a bit of an anticlimax after the amazing beaches on Jura.

 After lunch we bid farewell to Dana and with increasing cloud and...

 ...wind we paddled south...

...with our sails up for the entrance to Loch Sween. We turned our backs to the Paps of Jura for the last time and...

...on the horizon ahead the...

  ...MacCormaig islands did tempt but...

...we left them for another time and turned into Loch Sween. The ebb tide was still pouring out of the channels at the mouth of the loch but...

...soon we were safely inside paddling north in the shelter of the increasing wind. The last leg of our journey had begun.

A fine bothy for a party!

We circled round to the north side of Eilean Mor in the MacCormaig Isles and entered its surprisingly sheltered natural harbour. There is a seventh century turf roofed chapel, which we had explored on a previous visit but this time we wanted to get a closer look at a rather ancient looking turf roofed bothy on the west side of the inlet.


There was an awkward rocky landing at the foot of a steep stone flight of steps. We wondered if we were following in the footsteps of the saints!


Closer inspection of the bothy revealed an inset stone with Celtic carving. The word "Failte" (welcome) was inscribed above a shield device below which the date was a surprisingly recent 1995! Despite the inscription, the door was secured by two stout padlocks. It turns out that the island and the bothy belong to the Scottish National Party. Presumably admission is by Party card.


Somewhat disillusioned, we climbed back down to our waiting kayaks. Meanwhile the north going flood had built up nicely, promising a speedy return trip.

02/01/2009

All kinds of everything on the way to Danna.

After our encounter with the otters we had a very brisk paddle into the teeth of a bitingly cold easterly wind.


Our destination was a sheltered beach at the south end of the island of Danna. It is a tidal island linked by a narrow causeway to the south end of the Tayvallich peninsula of Knapdale. Together with the MacCormaig Isles, it forms a site of special scientific interest (SSSI) noted for habitat, plants, birds and geology.


We had rather a hurried and cold luncheon and promised ourselves a further stop.


Our sights were on the gap between Eilean Ghamhna and conical Corr Eilean topped by its prehistoric cairn. There was a colony of very large grey seals basking on the rocks.


The next crossing to Eilean Mor was complicated by both wind and tide. Ahead of us, it got a little bumpy at the southern end of the island. You can just see the chapel and cross on the hill.


Round the corner all was calm again but we noted that the north going flood had already started over an hour before predicted. Tide times in the Sound of Jura are influenced by air pressure and we were in the middle of an unseasonal high.


With a fair tide and a little effort we got up to 13km/hour.

02/01/2009

Tides and otters in the Sound of Jura.

We arrived at Carsaig Bay just as the sun was coming up. It was high water and all looked calm. The bay is a sheltered inlet off the Sound of Jura but across its mouth the waters surge back and forwards through the Dorus Mor and the Corryvreckan tide races at speeds of 4 to 9 knots. It is very helpful to consult a set of tide tables before launching here, unless one is prepared to enjoy a magical mystery tour to these two most interesting of sea kayaking destinations.


As it was, the ebb had just started and we were carried south to a group of most attractive islands. Here we are in the sheltered narrow channel between Eilean Traighe and Eilean Dubh.


Further on, the tide was running strongly through the channel between Eilean Fraoch and Eilean nan Coinean as we ferried across the narrow gap between them.


It was very pleasant having tidal assistance as we made our way down the rocky shore of the Sound of Jura at a steady 7-8km/hr with only light paddling.


As we neared the point of Rubha na Cille, we caught our first sight of our destination on the horizon, the MacCormaig Islands. We also spotted a disturbance in the water ahead. It was two young otters playing a pretty violent looking game of tag with one another. They were not particularly bothered by our presence!

02/01/2009

Catching the 08:15 for the MacCormaig Islands

Powerful spring tides drew us towards the inaccessible MacCormaig Islands. These tiny scraps of land, torn from the lands of Knapdale, are isolated by the swirling waters of the Sound of Jura.

Today we also had biting cold easterly winds which numbed our fingers.


We used the 08:15 ebb tide to carry us from Carsaig Bay down to the MacCormaigs. We then used the flood to carry us home. We covered 35km and, with tidal assistance, arrived home before dark, the first time in a while!

02/01/2009

St Cormac's Chapel

The MacCormaig Islands lie within the powerful tides of the Sound of Jura. They are a great sea kayaking destination. Not only is it interesting getting there but they are fascinating to explore. On Eilean Mor is the 12th century Chapel dedicated to St Cormac (d.640). In the distance are the Paps of Jura and in front stands the shaft of an early Celtic cross. Unfortunately the round stone bearing the cross has fallen off but you can see the cut outs in the shaft where the cross once sat.



Inside the vaulted chancel there is a small crypt covered with a slab decorated with the effigy of an ecclesiastical figure. Some believe that this is the tomb of St Cormac but he was buried some distance away on the island and of course the chapel was not built until 600 years after his death.