The Kames Hotel, a long way home.

After our blast up the West Kyle of Bute, we were looking forward to a luncheon in the Kames Hotel...

...we ordered beef and veggie burgers with pints of frothy sports recovery drinks. We had got chatting to a great bunch of guys from Ayrshire who had been in the bar watching our crossing. After a while they disappeared only to...

...reappear with guitars and an accordion.

My goodness we were in for a treat.  They played traditional Scots...

...and Irish songs...

..along with more recent songs from James Taylor and ...

...this one from Tom Waits....Long Way Home.

Sports recovery drinks were flowing and we knew we were getting into a perilous situation, any longer and we would have been there all night!

So we beat a hasty retreat while we still could and made a run for it up the West Kyle of Bute. This is sea kayaking.

Ardlamont no more....

 From Kildavanan Bay on Bute we set off across the mouth of the West Kyle of Bute towards...

 ...Ardlamont buoy. We were keen to see if Kylie the common dolphin still frequented the environs of the buoy.

Sadly Kylie was no longer there, we do hope no harm has befallen her and she returns, perhaps as before with a calf! We also found that the Ardlamont buoy has been moved 370m to the south of its position on pre May 2012 charts. It just shows make the most of life today. Even seemingly permanent things change and are no more.

 We now paddled towards Ardlamont Point at the SW end of the Cowall peninsula and the ...

 ...delightful little beach at Port nam Muileach where we stopped for...

...second breakfast and to catch up with our news.

Between a rock and a contrail on Ardlamont.

I got up on the sixth day of our expedition after having slept very little. The pain in my injured shoulder had steadily worsened making sleep all but impossible. To make matters worse I had finished all my painkillers. Our plan  had been to spend a further two days exploring the Kyles of Bute before returning to Ardrossan on the Ayrshire coast. However, I could not face a further miserable night so I explained the situation to the others and we decided to head directly to Ardrossan some 42km distant. We did consider whether to paddle 33km to Brodick on Arran and then get the ferry to Ardrossan  but it would have put my injured shoulder under too much pressure to get the last ferry.

 The beaches at Ardlamont point are composed of steeply sloping rock shelves. The rock is 600 million years old and is made of sediments which been subjected to considerable metamorphic changes. The great pressures, folding and heat have produced some beautiful patterns in the rock.

In places the rock shelf is covered by beaches of cobbles. Mostly these are of the same metamorphic rock but there are also some sandstone, quartz and granite cobbles mixed in.

 The water looked very inviting for a swim but as my shoulder was so sore I decided not to risk it. Only Jennifer was brave enough to go in as the water in early June was still only 11 degrees Celsius.

We slowly packed the kayaks as the heat of the day began to build. Thankfully there were far fewer midges than the previous evening.

 It felt great to be paddling down the Sound of Bute with Arran on one side and...

 ...the rocky shores and yellow gorse covered banks of Ardlamont on the other.

There was absolutely no wind so the sails remained furled on our decks. My friends accommodated my injury by paddling slowly, much more slowly than...

...the passengers on this Trans-Atlantic jet, which was the only other sign of human activity. Long after the jet had gone, the reflection of its contrail writhed like a snake in the water ahead of us.

Baked potatoes and bandits in Ardlamont.

As dusk fell the wind dropped and unfortunately that was the signal for the arrival of the midges. We soon had a fire going on the beach. We don't light fires on grass and we don't make fire rings with big stones. After the next high tide there is no sign of our passing.

 Baked potatoes in tin foil are an essential addition to any camp fire.

As we and the millions of midges enjoyed the ambience of the evening we were really surprised that we had the place to ourselves, with no other human company.

A peaceful night alone on Ardlamont?

 At long last we arrived at our camp spot on the Ardlamont peninsula. We had travelled for 12 hours since we had left Gigha which lies off the exposed Atlantic west coast of Scotland. We now found ourselves deep within the Firth of Clyde, some 80km from the Mull of Kintyre at the mouth of the Firth.

We looked out over the Sound of Bute to low lying Inchmarnock and Arran. Between them, the distant south Ayrshire coast was out of sight below the horizon. Only the summits of the Galloway hills were just visible some 90km away to the SE.

The beach was backed by a raised beach of cobbles, a legacy of a rising landmass after the retreat of the Ice Age.

 The raised beach provided an ideal base to set up camp. From my tent door I spotted...

...this otter diving for crabs. We could quite clearly hear it crunching the shells. The only building visible on our entire horizon was the small white unoccupied cottage on the Arran shore at Laggan. Unfortunately we would not find ourselves alone for long, this evening...

Saved by a sundowner in Kilbride Bay.

We had been travelling for 40km since we had left Gigha earlier in the day and there were still several kilometers to go. I had torn muscles in my left shoulder (which would require surgical repair) and it was hurting like hell. It was a great relief when a northerly sundowner wind got up and blew us straight out of Kilbride Bay. It is amazing how the Flat Earth sail can take the load of a heavily laden kayak off tired shoulders.

 We soon left the long strand in our wakes and...

...we made the most of the broad reach down the Ardlamont peninsula to our intended camp.

An oasis of refreshment and welcome at Colintraive

The Kyles of Bute between the Cowal peninsula and the island of Bute are great sea kayaking waters.


The icing on the cake is the Colintraive Hotel which is just beside the ferry terminal on the Cowal side. I first visited this oasis of refreshment on a yacht in 1977. Last September we returned to see if the years had been kind to it.


Just inside, there was an impressive menu on the wall. Sadly due to the winds we arrived after 3pm when the kitchen had closed...


...however the welcoming bar staff lit the fire for us and brought us some freshly made prawn sandwiches. These were not only generously filled but truly delicious! Not only that but the Guinness was served at just the right temperature.

I notice that the Colintaive Hotel has won two accolades: "Scottish Hotel Awards, 2010 Winner of the Inn of the Year" and "Gold Medal Award for Real and Local Food"

It would be most churlish of us to disagree in any way, particularly in view of the excellent service, which we found on our visit. We will visit again soon, to sample that menu but this time we will arrive at this wonderful place early!

If all this was not enough, the hotel are now offering sea kayaking instruction for their guests together with local instructor Roddy Mcdowall. This must make it one of Scotland's premiere sea kayaking pubs!

Dunoon, and her unused new pier

From Hunter's Quay we proceeded down the coast of the Cowal peninsula towards Dunoon. The view to the south was superb with distant views to Ayrshire, the two giant cranes of the Hunterston Ore Terminal, Great Cumbrae, Little Cumbrae, the distant pyramid of Holy Island just left of the Gantocks rocks light beacon, then Bute and finally the Cowal shore.


As we approached Dunoon, the ferry from Gourock, MV Saturn was edging in to dock at Dunoon pier.


MV Saturn is one of the oldest ferries in the Calmac fleet she was built in 1978 at the now defunct Ailsa Yard at Troon further down the Clyde. She is the winter relief vessel for the similar MV Jupiter, which normally operates the service. Neither Saturn nor Jupiter have true RORO car deck as they load and unload from the side and stern.


Dunoon probably means green fort and right behind the pier you can see the flat topped grass covered mound that was typical of motte and bailey castles. Dunoon Castle was established in the 1100's and finally abandoned in the 1650's.



We paddled along Dunoon's Victorian pier after Saturn had left on her voyage back to Gourock. The pier was built in 1835 but extensively modified in 1895. The side loading ferries, Jupiter and Saturn still berth here despite a new modern jetty and linkspan for RORO ferries having being built alongside in 2005. Under EU competition rules, companies had to bid to run a service from the new jetty. Neither the government owned CalMac nor the locally owned Western Ferries chose to bid. So the new jetty lies unused!

A nice shade of grey, in Hunter's Quay

We crossed the Holy Loch and arrived at Hunter's Quay just after MV Sound of Sanda had landed and was offloading her cars. We quickly made our way round her stern (that would become her bow) and found ourselves paddling below more fine Victorian villas. Hunter's Quay was established in 1816 when James Hunter bought the local Hafton Estate. He built a quay in 1828 and extended it to a pier in 1858, as other people moved into the village and built villas there. The last steamer called at the pier in 1964. Then in 1973, Western Ferries bought the pier and opened up the frequent sailings to McInroy's Point at Gourock.


On the beach below a large villa we came across "The Jim Crow". The rock has been painted like this for more than a hundred years but during the night of 21st June 2009, it was painted over all in grey. This caused much local debate and was reported in the Dunoon Observer. Some people think the rock just looks like a crow. Other people think that the name refers to the "Jim Crow laws" that segregated black and white people in the USA from 1876 till 1965.

As you can see, The Jim Crow has since been restored. I don't know what American servicemen from the Holy Loch thought of it. Maybe it is just a crow but it's not a very attractive crow. Just because something has been there a long time does not make it right. Neither does the fact that many may not appreciate its significance to others. I certainly am not one for overzealous political correctness (I call things black and white boards, not chalk and pen boards) but in this case, I think the rock, and Hunter's Quay, would look better if it were a nice shade of grey.

Keeping an eye open for ferries at Gourock

As we approached Gourock, we came to McInroy's Point, which is the terminus for the Western Ferries route to Hunter's Quay on the Cowal peninsula. This is the MV Sound of Shuna and she has three sister ships: MV Sound of Scarba, MV Sound of Sanda and MV Sound of Scalpay. If you plan to use this crossing you can get discount tickets in Paul's Food and Wine shop at 94, Shore St, Gourock.

These ferries operate a very quick turn around so we stopped where the captain could see us. He came out onto the flying bridge and waved us on. We got a good boost from the ferry's thrusters, which were holding her at the jetty.


We cruised past Gourock esplanade enjoying views over the Firth of Clyde to the Cowal Hills and the Holy Loch.


We turned south round Kempock Point. We passed under the once grand Gourock railway terminus which once transferred thousands of Glaswegians to steamers to take them "doon the watter" to the Clyde resorts where they spent their holidays.


We found two CalMac ferries "resting" between assignments. MV Jupiter normally covers the Gourock to Dunoon route but her sister ship MV Saturn is covering that service at the moment. In the summer Saturn provides extra crossings from Ardrossan to Brodick. I last saw MV Loch Alaine on the Eriskay Barra route.


As we left Gourock MV Saturn was approaching her berth. We could just make out the MV Seabus, leaving Kilcreggan bound for Gourock. She is a passenger ferry operated by Clyde Marine Sevices on the Gourock Kilcreggan Helensburgh route.

It sounds like Gourock is a busy ferry terminal. Well it is, but it is a shadow of its former self. Scores of competing ferries raced each other to the piers that had sprung up all round the Clyde. A sea kayaker would have needed very sharp eyes in those days. Even today, we chose to cross the various ferry routes near their piers and jetties.

Two piers, a lion and a smokeless chimney

From Millport Bay, on Great Cumbrae's south coast, we rounded Farland Point and entered the the Fairlie Roads channel. On the far side of the channel, the bulk carrier Wah Shan had wasted no time and was now discharging her cargo of coal (at 2400 tons per hour) at the Clydeport ore terminal. The deep water pier is 1.5km long and was opened in 1979.


On the Cumbrae side, Alan paddled under the much older Keppel Pier, which was one of the piers that served Great Cumbrae until the roll on/roll off slipway was built at the north of the island. It was built from wood in 1888. Nowadays the passengers are all gone and it serves as a support for a sea surface temperature monitoring device.


Just north of Keppel Pier, Lion Rock is a basalt dyke, which forced its way through the surrounding Old Red sandstone rocks.


To the north, the Cowal mountains were all covered by snow and at sea level, the Toward lighthouse was dwarfed by the disused chimney of the mothballed Inverkip oil fired power station.


The buildings of the town of Largs gradually took shape and we were nearly home.