Between a rock and a hard place at Glensanda.

All too soon we had to leave the oasis of Kingairloch...

...and continue our exploration of the  Morvern coast.

We passed huge beaches of perfectly graded shingle.

After some time, we became aware of a curious noise, a bit like waves sucking shingle down a beach, but more sustained and more artificial.

We had found the Glensanda super quarry, the biggest in Europe. The noise we had heard was graded rock falling in continuous streams from shutes emerging from the mountain.

A whole granite mountain is being removed and the crushed rock transferred through tunnels to the shore, where it is graded before being loaded onto huge ships at the deep water terminal. There is no road access to Glensanda, everything goes in and out by sea. Few people have seen it or even know it's there, which is possibly why it slipped under the radar of environmental groups.

Standing on its lonely rock at the foot of a shrinking mountain, we came across Glensanda Castle. It was built in the late fifteenth century by the MacLeans. We are certainly leaving more of a mark on the landscape than our ancestors.

However, these two swans seemed oblivious to the quarry and we soon left both it and them in our wakes.

Sea kayaking desktop wallpaper calendar 2011

I wish a belated Happy New Year to all visitors to seakayakphoto.com. As way of a celebration of the last year and in anticipation of sea kayaking adventures yet to come, here is the 7th annual sea kayaking desktop wallpaper calendar from seakayakphoto.com. The above link will lead to high resolution photos in four different desktop sizes.

January, Arran, Firth of Clyde.

February, Loch Creran, Firth of Lorn.

March, Mull of Oa, Islay.

April, Rhuvaal, Islay.

May, Loch Drumbuie, Morvern.

June, Paps of Jura from Gigha.

July, Dove Cave, Solway Firth.

August, Gigha from Cara.

September, Kirkcudbright, Solway Firth.

October, Loch Goil, Firth of Clyde.

November, Loch Long, Firth of Clyde.

December, Loch Linnhe, Firth of Lorn.

The Boathouse, Kingairloch, Morvern

It always amuses me when I see people packing food and drink for their first sea kayaking expedition to Scotland's wonderful west coast. They imagine that such a magnificent, primeval landscape will be as a desert, with little opportunity for resupply or refreshment. But in truth, there chinks in the landscape's armour, little oases, like this one at Kingairloch at the head of Loch a' Choire. This is an apparently insignificant offshoot, into the lands of Morvern, from the 55km length of Loch Linnhe.

David, Phil and I (sadly Jim is no longer with us) have a reputation as light packers yet also as bon vivants, which are apparently contradictory states of sea kayak being. It was shortly after midday when we drew up at the old Victorian Boathouse at Kingairloch Estate in Morvern, which is a wild and remote peninsula deep in Lochaber.


There are no draught beers but the fridge was full of a fine selection of bottled and canned beers and white wines. I enjoyed a bottle or two of some excellent ale from the island of Arran. For our other victuals, Phil chose a local venison burger with fat chips. The venison was almost completely fat free and was aromatic with the heather from the Morven hills upon which the deer had grazed. David enjoyed two starters, a daily special of a terrine of smoked haddock pate with home made bread and a huge cheeseboard, which Phil and I had to help him with. I enjoyed the daily special of a whole plaice cooked in capers with vegetables from the estate garden.

As sea kayakers, we are athletes whose bodies are honed by years of hard expeditioning and as such, they require to be treated like temples. The sad thing is that the "headland to headland" sea kayaking sect (we are a very broad church) would not even notice Loch a' Choire, never mind what lay hidden deep within. Well that is their loss, while they might have battled the midday thermal winds, before dining on an energy bar at the foot of some distant headland, David, Phil and I washed our excellent meal down with some fine filtered coffee. We did however, make a prompt point of being back on the water before three in the afternoon.


The Boathouse is open: Thursday: 11am-8pm*, Friday: 11am-8pm*, Saturday: 11am-8pm*, Sunday Lunch from 12p-3pm. *last orders.

There is free WiFi and the toilets were spotless. Sadly the showers are no longer available, due to lack of demand, so if you visit, ask about showers!

Though not strictly a pub, this is a proper restaurant, we were highly satisfied by our visit. Overall it would seem stingy to give a score of any less than 12/10.

After sunset in the Lynn of Lorn.

The ebb tide carried us out of Loch Creran and into the Lynn of Lorn.


It was half an hour past sunset and the light was fading fast as the bubbling tide carried us by the pole marking Dearg Sgeir.


The air was so clear that we could see all the way down the Firth of Lorn past the distant mountains of Mull...


...but we now turned our bows to the NE. Only a few scattered lights on Lismore and the snowy summits of Morvern resisted the relentless approach of the darkness of the night.


The snowy summit of Ben Cruachan glowed softly in the night, beyond the wooded slopes of Clach Tholl, a former sea stack.


Ahead, the lights at the pier head at Port Appin told us that we would soon have finished another superb paddle.

End of day in Loch Creran

As the sun was now low on the SW horizon we set off again on the return leg of our exploration of Loch Creran.


The sun was setting right in the gap between the hills on either side of Loch Spelvie on Mull.


We floated gently on the golden waters of Loch Creran...


...until the sun disappeared and a chill sun-downer breeze got up. It was time to press on.


The ebb tide was taking us through the entrance narrows at a decent lick when we spotted the navigation lights of the Lady Heather coming in through the narrows. Lady Heather and her sister ship, Lady Fiona, are high speed launches that ferry workers back and forwards to the Glen Sanda quarry on Morvern. They run from Port Appin and also Rubha Garbh on the south shore of Loch Creran. You can just see the quarry lights high on the distant Morvern mountainside.

As soon as we saw the launch, we cut into the channel edge. We had our head torches showing white lights and the Lady Heather spotted us and, very considerately, slowed right down to reduce her wake while passing. She then sped up again to take the Glen Sanda workers back home in time for tea.

Little and large on the road north to Appin

Back at the beginning of February, we took the great road north again past Buchaille Etive Mor, 1022m, and through the dark recesses of Glen Coe beyond.


At Loch Linnhe we turned south and entered the lands of Appin which were controlled by the bold fortress of...


Castle Stalker sitting on its little island. On the bigger island of Shuna beyond, you can just see the tiny remains of its rather inadequate neighbour, Castle Shuna.


Soon we were kayaking out into the Lynn of Lorne...


...where we set a southerly course.

Blowing the cobwebs away in the Firth of Lorn.

Continuing on our voyage round Kerrera, we made our way from Gylen Castle to this lovely spot for our first luncheon. The fog was still rolling backwards and forwards down the Firth of Lorn but the magnificent mountains of Mull had broken through into a clear blue sky.


Refuelled, we continued on our way under these interesting cliffs that characterise the geology of the south of the island.


We rounded Rubha na Feudain at the SW corner of Kerrera into a bitingly cold F3-4 N wind. All vestiges of fog were now blown asunder. Through the now crystal clear air, we could see that the summit of Ben More (968m) still had snow, though the lower mountains of Mull were now bare.



We paddled up the NW coast of Kerrera but the dramatic coastline of Mull kept drawing our eyes to the other side of the Firth of Lorn.


Another visit to Mull is definitely overdue....


To the north, the Lismore lighthouse at the southern end of Lismore stood out against the dark mountains of Morvern. The wind began to drop and the sun began to set.

Port Appin dawn

Port Appin is a sleepy little village which nestles below the mountains of Appin which seperate Loch leven and Loch Creran on Argyll's rugged west coast. Port Appin was never a fishing port but it served as a stopping point in the 19th century for steamers travelling between Glasgow and Edinburgh via the Crinan and Caledonian canals.


Today it serves two small ferries. This is the Lismore which carries foot passengers across the Lynn of Lorn to the beautiful island of Lismore. In Gaelic, Lismore means the big garden. It is more fertile than many of the Scottish islands because of the presence of limestone rock. From 1800 till 1934 this was quarried and heated in lime kilns to produce lime for agriculture on the west coast and building in Glasgow.

The quarrying tradition in these parts started again in 1986 when the Glensanda quarry opened. It is one of Europe's biggest quarries and its granite rock was used to make the channel tunnel. Glensanda quarry is removing an entire mountain, Meall na Easaiche, on the Morven coast on the far side of Loch Linnhe, beyond Lismore. It is situated just behind the mountains in the sunshine in the photo above. Another ferry carries local workers from Port Appin across Loch Linnhe to Glensanda.


We were bound for a circumnavigation of Lismore and also chose to launch from Port Appin. We carried the boats over frost covered seaweed in the predawn light. Although we were still in freezing shade, there was a lovely pink glow in the sky reflected from the tops of the high mountains which were already in sunshine.


We planned a clockwise circumnavigation. It is 37 km and we knew that it would be dark before we finished as sunset would be about 15:34.

On 27/12/2008 HW Oban was at 05:35 and 17:49. The tidal constant at Port Appin is -00:05 Oban. It was one day before springs.

At the Lynn of Lorn south end (1 knot springs), the ebb (SW) starts at -01:40 Oban which was 16:09 on our trip. The flow (NE) starts at +04:45 Oban which was 10:20.

At the Lynn of Lorn north end (2.5 knots springs), the ebb (SW) starts at -00:15 Oban which was 17:35. The flow NE starts at +06:00 Oban which was 11:35.

On the NE going flood an eddy runs SW from the islands along the SE coast of Lismore so we reckoned we would have tidal assistance for most of the day.

27/12/2008

Decapitation at Camas nan Liath!

On our recent paddle in Loch Sunart and the Sound of Mull we enjoyed an idyllic stop at Camas nan Liath. From a distance the cobbles on the beach looked grey and I thought that was the explanation of the Gaelic name which I took to be "beach of the grey" though I though just Camas Liath would have done.



The water was crystal clear and beckoned us in to the beach which, nestled under the steep wooded slopes of Tor nan Con. Even in winter, the colour of the birch and aspen branches contrasted with the grey of the cobbles and invited a return in spring.



To the north west, the beach is exposed to the full force of Atlantic storms and the bed rock had been worn into mounds, hollows and channels by the action of countless wave tossed cobbles.



In the deeper hollows, at the bottom of each crystal clear pool of water, there was a mixture of cobbles and pebbles of different sizes and rock types.



As we left, we paddled past great grey "heads" of rock whose necks had been worn away by the wave action. Some of the older heads had been decapitated and fallen as boulders. Suddenly, the full and subtle meaning of the Gaelic "Camus nan Liath" hit me: Beach of the Grey Heads.

What a place, what a language.