Where ancient mountains crumble to the sea.

As we proceeded south along the mountainous coast of Lewis, a lone figure, with a carrier bag, appeared running along the rocks. The steady beat of Cuma's  trusty Gardner diesel slowed...

...and Murdani gently nosed her into the relatively calm waters of Tarla geo. Here the slopes of Taireabhal plunge straight into the sea.

It was Murdani's son in law on the rocks and Gary threw a well aimed line towards him.

With no delay, the bag was tied to the line and...

...swiftly hauled aboard.

The mystery of the Cuma's missing supplies was solved. It was a container of fruit crumble mix and six stainless steel teaspoons! Thank goodness we would not need to eat our stewed fruit without crumble and stir our tea with the reserve plastic items!

 The beat of the diesel resumed and we continued down the coast past the dazzling sands of Mealasta island...

 ...and on to the ancient hills that border Lewis and Harris.

Murdani now took Cuma through the narrow gap inside Liongam and into...

...the sheltered waters of Loch Tamnavay beyond.

A journey towards the edge of the World.

My journey north to St Kilda started at 17:30 after work last Friday. It was a slow drive due to the number of caravans and motor homes heading north. These vehicles carry such evocative names as  GT, Cheetah, Concorde (Mach 2 model), Monza, Le Mans etc. However, the road quietened after Fort William and by 21:30 I was watching the sun set behind Eilean Donan Castle.

I spent the night at Gordon and Morag Brown's new Skyak sea kayaking centre on Skye. After meeting some of the others, we spent a very convivial evening chatting and planning our adventure. We rose early the next morning and loaded the kayak trailer. We drove to the Calmac ferry terminal at Uig...

 ...and were soon enjoying the in flight entertainment. A large pod of dolphins were leaping out of the waters of the Minch.

 The Cuillin of Skye were soon slipping astern...

...to be replaced by the mountains of Harris as we entered Loch Tarbert.
 

We drove through the high mountains of Harris and descended to the wide open moors of Lewis. Lewis and Harris form the third biggest landmass in the British Isles after Britain and Ireland!

We had a long drive ahead of us to the little port of Miavaig in Loch Roag on the west coast of Lewis.

 Here we met the Cuma and her Skipper Murdani.

 Soon we were loading the kayaks onto the Cuma and our journey was about to begin. Murdani at the stern supervised the loading but he didn't seem to be quite himself. I overheard him say to the Gary the Cuma's mate " I don't like leaving without it." and "I know we have got plenty plastic ones but stainless steel would be better."

We set sail without it and with plenty plastic ones on board....

Decay and restoration on Scarp.

From the shore we made our way up the hill through the remains of the settlement on Scarp. Photo: T Page.


In the distance on the right, you can just make out the jetty on Harris that was the Scarp inhabitants' link to the outside world.


It was only two years since our last visit but the houses had deteriorated noticeably.


Some of the old black houses still had remains of their thatched roofs.


We were surprised to find that one house was being restored, probably as a holiday home. I wonder if the new owner is a descendant of one of the original crofters of Scarp?


The grave yard was in the machair behind the dunes. Most of the graves were marked by simple rounded boulders from the beach below, although there were a few carved stones.

04/06/2008

Scarp, a kyles too far and a phone too few.

Crossing the Caolas an Scarp we made landfall on the island of Scarp. Although the distance across the kyles is only 430 metres, the shallow channel can be very turbulent in wind and swell conditions. The islanders felt very isolated when they were marooned on the island for long periods. The last two families evacuated the island in 1971, some four decades after the evacuation of the apparently much more isolated St Kilda. The final decision came after a storm carried away the submarine telephone link between Scarp and Harris in 1970. The phone company decided not to replace it and the islanders left shortly afterwards.


Even on a calm day landing at Scarp could be tricky with swell coming round both sides of the island. We timed our landings on the smaller sets and everyone got ashore dry.


We were ready for a leisurely second luncheon and carried the kayaks well above the surf...


...before making our way to the dunes between the beach and the abandoned village.


Its inhabitants may now have left but what a place for a break on a summer's day!

04/06/2008

Speed bonny boat over the sea to Scarp!

We were blown right out of Loch Crabhadail on Harris.


The rocky gneiss of its ancient mountains gave way to great shifting dunes of sand at its mouth.


And then we entered the fabled Coalas an Scarp. The light here is truly like no other on Earth.


Murty kept a watchful eye,


as our shadows sped across the sandy bottom on our way to Scarp!

We love sea kayaking in Scotland!

04/06/2008

Glen Crabhadail

The gusty offshore wind blew this old buoy, from its resting place high in the machair...


... down onto the sands of Camas Crabhadail.



Our kayaks were lost in the empty space of Glen Crabhadail.


After a second breakfast, we made our way over the machair and into the heartland of the Glen.


Over a rise, we came to the fresh water Loch a' Ghlinnhe. This looked like a very fine place to fish for sea trout.


We came across these neat lazy beds and knew that these lands of Harris were not always empty of human habitation. Photo JLW.


Soon we felt the call of the sea again and made our way back to the beach. Photo JLW.

04/06/2008

Loch Reasort, a long time in the making.

Our first day back on Harris dawned with a freshening SW wind but wonderful clear skies and sunshine. It was good to be back on the water as we left MV Cuma at her mooring. We would rendezvous with the Cuma at the north end of Scarp later in the day.


Cuma had anchored half way in towards the head of Loch Reasort (Resort in English).


We now made our way down the loch towards the Atlantic.


A glacier cut a U shaped valley though the ancient rocks of Lewisian gneiss.


Ahead lay the distant island of Scarp.


As we paddled below the rocky slopes of Taran Mor, 303m, we were looking at rocks that are about 2,500 million years old. Even in this now desolate place, lazy beds betrayed past settlements that are now long forgotten.


Our route from Loch Reasort to Scarp.

04/06/2008

Empty beds on Scarp.

The steady thrum of MV Cuma's diesel did not miss a beat on the 105 km trip back from St Kilda to Loch Resort, Harris.


We made landfall at Scarp. Scarp was inhabited from time immemorial until its last inhabitants were evacuated in 1971.


The low sun showed off the abandoned lazy beds on the north coast Scarp. Generations of back breaking work (without machines) created these beds and fed the families of Scarp.


Leaving Scarp, Cuma slipped below bold mountains and into the fjord-like recesses of Loch Resort which cut deep into the hinterland of Harris.

03/06/2008 pm