29th April 2021 #4 Let's do lunch at the lonesome pine of Loch Hourn.

When the squall passed the skies began to clear. This proved to be an ideal time to stop at a tidal island with a lonesome pine to sit under and...

...enjoy first luncheon in the sun. Unfortunately the squall appeared to have taken up permanent residence in inner Loch Hourn, our destination.

Refreshed by our break we continued east up the narrowing loch in a brief weather window. This of course proved to be short lived and...

... at times our view of the hills was lost completely.

We pressed on past Barrisdale Bay while fighting a head wind until...

...we took a welcome respite in the lee of some wooded islands that mark the entrance to the inner loch.

29th April 2021 #3 Skyfall and rainfall in Loch Hourn.

 

As we paddled east along the south shore of Loch Hourn the mountains closed round us.

Loch Hourn is a flooded U shaped glaciated valley and in some places the mountains fall straight into the sea as here at Creag an t-Sagairt (roughly translates as pulpit rock).

On the north side of the loch, Arnisdale House was dwarfed by the foothills of Beinn Sgritheall. This was the inspiration for James Bond's ancestral home "Skyfall". It was built by Valentine Fleming, the father of Ian Fleming who wrote the James Bond books. Valentine's father was Robert Fleming who founded the eponymous investment bank. The family were not short of an odd bob (or odd job) or two.

All was deceptively quiet as we passed Eilean a' Phiobaire (Piper's Isle) but a storm was gathering. 

Within seconds the sky started to fall round our heads. The temperature plummeted as violent squalls of wind, rain, hail and sleet swept down from the high corries. We were in for a pasting.

An unexpected wind out of a clear blue sky.

 When we left Port nam Mullaich we were in the lee of Ardlamont point but...

 ...as soon as we rounded the point into the Sound of Bute we were straight into the teeth of the...

 ...NW wind which the VHF "sécurité" call had warned about.

 It was one of those unexpected northerly winds that came out of...

 ...a clear blue sky. Though as we had a high pressure to the west and a low pressure to the east, the direction was not totally unexpected though it was a good bit stronger than the forecasts.

Weather cocking at the Cock.

 As we left Loch Ranza thunder was rumbling round the glens high above us.the yachts were all weather-cocking on their moorings as the cold gusts swung down from different glens

The rain battered down noisily on our hoods but we were surprisingly insulated from the elements in our kayaks and gear. At least we were doing it for pleasure unlike...

 ...these fishermen on FV Stella Maris TT183 who need to work in all weathers.

We had been slightly concerned about what the sea state might be like as we rounded the Cock of Arran (which was fully exposed to the north east wind) but conditions were benign as the rain flattened the seas.

Then rather miraculously, the wind began to drop and a glimmer of sunlight appeared on the horizon. Then... and...

 ...the skies cleared as we reached our camp site. The temperature built very quickly to 22C and...

...we were perspiring by the time we got the tents up. The warm sun did a great job...

...of drying our wet and damp gear. The weather in Scotland is always unpredictable and variable but even us hardy kayakers were surprised by the rapidity of the change. F5 NE wind, torrential rain and air temp. of 7C changed to F0, full sun and air temp. of 22C in just under two hours...quite remarkable!

The front passes through.

 As the line of clouds came over the wind increased to about F4-5 but it was very gusty and backed from SSW to N then NW then SSW then back to N again! I persisted with the sail until it got too squally then I dropped it. There are no photos for the next 4km as it got too rough.

 Then as the front passed over, the sun came out again and...

 ...I sped back to the channel between Ardwall Isle and the mainland before...

 ...crossing Fleet Bay with distant Gatehouse of Fleet at its head.

 The shore team were waiting to help...

 ...get the kayak back up the beach. Then back for a tasty dinner! I have just completed a year long comparative test of the P&H Delphin 155. It will be published in Ocean Paddler magazine issue 34 in first week of November 2012. I will then post it here on seakayakphoto.com in early 2013.

This was our incredible view as...

 ...the sun went down in...

...the autumn sky.

The approaching storm...

The N wind had dropped completely by the time I arrived at the seaward side of Ardwall Isle. Looking back into Fleet Bay...

 ...dark storm clouds were gathering above the Galloway Hills.

Out on the reefs on the SW side of Barlocco Isle the sun was still shining but a SW wind was picking up...

 ...as I rounded the isle and caught sight of Ringdoo Point.

The storm clouds were now rapidly moving across the sky.

I was now in the lee of Barlocco, so I hoisted my sail and got ready for a fast ride...

SECURITE on the Solway.

It was a neap tide down on the Solway. There was no time to waste as this meant that the tide would soon be out, exposing the sands of Fleet Bay for most of the day...

...so Tony, Jennifer and I set off early to catch the the ebb tide before the bay emptied. We planned to stay out on the open Solway for about 6-8 hours until the flood filled the Fleet again. A force three NE wind sped us on our way as we crossed the tidal bar that connects Ardwall Isle to the mainland and...

 ...made our way out towards Barlocco reef beyond.

We took a break on Knockbrex beach for our first luncheon. Jennifer did well in the Delphin to keep up with the kayak sailors. We did not stay long as the reef that connects Barlocco to the mainland was rapidly drying.

As we approached Meikle Pinnacle Jennifer pointed out a flock of gannets diving on a shoal of fish.

The swell began to increase as we rounded Ringdoo Point. We had planned to paddle round to Kirkudbright Bay as we should have been in the lee of the land in the forecast 3-4 NE winds. The winds were due to veer SE and increase in the evening so we should have had plenty of time to get there and back.

As we left the shelter of Wigtown Bay the wind increased and veered SE and the swell began to increase. The ebb tide runs to the SE out of Wigtown Bay but as you approach the entrance it joins the ebb from the Solway which runs to the west. We were therefore paddling in glorious sunny wind with tide conditions with nice smooth swell.

All of a sudden the VHF crackled into life "SECURITE,  SECURITE ,  SECURITE ." It was Liverpool Coastguard with a strong wind warning for small craft.. Winds were to veer to the SE and increase to force 6 imminently. This put us in a difficult position. Imminent means within 6 hours but the wind had already veered and increased and we were enjoying ourselves now. However, the tide would turn and start running east long before we would get back from Kircudbright Bay. Wind against tide in the shallow waters of the Solway creates the "White Steeds of the Solway" which are best avoided so we decided to
turn back towards...

 ...the now distant Ringdoo Point. We made rapid progress towards...

 ...the point in the following seas.

 Soon we were in the shelter of the cliffs and all appeared to be calm again.

We paddled round the seaward side of Barlocco and landed in a sheltered cove on its lee side. We arrived at low water so we had plenty of time for a leisurely second luncheon until the tide came in sufficiently to kayak back into Fleet Bay. It was a different world in here as we sat in the shelter of the reef looking towards the Islands of Fleet and the distant Galloway Hills. For a moment we wondered if we had done the right thing in turning back. However, when the tide turned, out at sea the Solway horizon had become very lumpy...