The huffy heron of Barwhin.

 We paddled on down the wonderful coastline of Culzean.

 As we approched the skerries at Barwhin Point, a heron watched our approach with a sharp yellow eye...

...it repeatedly flew off just as as we approached...

... and each time it would land about 100m ahead of us.

Finally, at the end of the reefs, it decided that the next jump to Ailsa Craig was probably a bit too far.

So it sat on the rocks with hunched shoulders looking as if it was in the huff with us. It finally let us pass...

...and we entered the more open waters of Maidens Bay.

A missing monkey, a castle and an electric brae!

After crossing Maidenhead Bay we left Ailsa Craig astern and slipped through a gap into the lagoon behind Glasson Rock.


We found ourselves in the shelter of a delightful cove. The sands of Carrick shore lie at the foot of wooded Barwin Hill. A path at the back of the beach leads up to a pagoda in the woods. This was built in 1860 as a summerhouse by the Kennedy family of nearby Culzean castle. It is one of only three pagogas in Britain and is the only one built of stone. Its lower level hosed an aviary but a monkey was also kept here and Ayrshire folk still know it as the "monkey house". I worked at Culzean as a seasonal ranger/naturalist in the 1970's but by then it had become a ruin. It was expertly restored in 1998, though the National Trust for Scotland has drawn the line at reinstating a live monkey!


Leaving Carrick, we paddled on under the walls of Culzean Castle.


Children on the parapets pointed and waved excitedly at us, though I doubt we made up for the missing monkey!


After clearing the headland of Culzean, we were faced by another broad expanse of water, this time it was Culzean Bay. On the hillside above Phil's head can be found Croy Brae. This is an Electric Brae and if you are silly enough to listen to your kids and switch your car engine off when going downhill, powerful magnets in the earth will haul your car to a stop and another car load of kids will smack into the back of you. Highly entertaining stuff and all in all, South Ayrshire makes a great day out!

Sea kayaking on home waters.

It has been a windy week but at last, today the wind dropped. Tony and I launched from Maidens on the Clyde coast and...


...made our way past Culzean towards Dunure. We had arranged to meet David and Phil there.

We had only just left the shore when the adventure began. Even on home waters, it's great to get out.

15/03/2009

The Culzean Coastline

From Turnberry Point we crossed Maidenhead Bay (in truth it was not our first time) and found ourselves at delightful Port Carrick at the south end of the Culzean coastline.


Long winter shadows stretched across the sands but the north end of the beach was bathed in wonderful low winter sunlight.


Port Carrick is a great place to stop for lunch. In winter you will have it to yourself but at the height of summer it can be very popular.


After a sandwich we paddled out to sea under an amazing sky. The sunset promised to be fantastic!


We turned a corner and found ourselves in a bay with a shingle beach backed by a round bath house, a ruined laundry and Dolphin House.


The next headland is dominated by the magnificent Culzean Castle. It was built for the 10th Earl of Cassillis by Robert Adam in 1770. Its great central staircase is actually built within the interior of the original square keep which is now surrounded by these newer and more ornate walls.

What a wonderful coastline Culzean is and I haven't even mentioned the caves or the blow hole!

02/11/2008

The SSSI coastline of Culzean

The magnificent structure of the castle dominates the great Ayrshire estate of Culzean. The coastline extends for 5km from Maidens Bay in the south to Croy Bay in the north. The coast is a designated Site of Special Scientific Interest. It has many igneous, sedimentary and metamorphic geological features, which create varied environments within a short distance and as a result, it is rich in marine and terrestrial plant and animal life.

The whole estate is now managed as a Country Park by the National Trust of Scotland. I have a particular attachment to this place. In the early seventies I worked as a volunteer conservation worker when the Park was being established. I was then very fortunate in spending my summer holidays from university as a seasonal ranger naturalist. Happy days in a fantastic environment working with great colleagues!

27/04/2008

Eisenhower, the Kennedys and Washington.

Leaving Carrick shore, we left Ailsa Craig behind us but our view was soon dominated by the Victorian south wing of Culzean (pron. Cullane) Castle. This is the second castle of our "Four Castles" tour of Ayrshires's Carrick coastline.


The main part of the castle was built between 1777 and 1792 for Robert Kennedy the 10th Earl of Cassillis (pron. castles) a member of the powerful Ayrshire Kennedy family. His cousin, Captain Archibald Kennedy, the 11th Earl of Cassillis, was a distinguished naval commander who broke the siege of Lisbon 1760. On retiring from the sea, he moved to New York and lived at No. 1 Broadway. At a little diplomatic incident in 1773, known as the Boston Tea Party, Captain Archibald felt unable to take part on the American side. George Washington evicted him and moved into No. 1 Broadway himself. It was fortunate that the good Captain had this little place in Scotland to fall back upon!


The present romantic and decorative castle was designed and built by Robert Adam. He built it round the earlier stone keep of the original fortified tower house which dated back to 1165. Some of the internal walls are therefore 12 feet thick! Adam's famous oval staircase, in the centre of the castle, is built within the walls of the original keep.

When the Kennedys gifted Culzean to the National Trust of Scotland in 1945, they asked that rooms should be given to General Eisenhower as a lifetime gift from the Scottish people after the end of WW2. The Eisenhower flat occupied the top floor of the castle, as seen in the photograph above. He spent four happy holidays here, one of which was when he was President. He enjoyed walking in the grounds, watching the wildlife, painting and of course golf at nearby Turnberry!

The amazing thing about sea kayaking round Scottish waters is how much history you come across. Not just Scottish history, but given the Scots' long history of emigration, the history of many other countries as well.

Who would have thought that one American (who would become president) would have evicted a Kennedy of Culzean out of his home and another American (who would also become president) would be given a guest flat by the descendents of that same Kennedy?

20/01/2008

Sea Kayaking Desktop Calendar February 2008

The winter sun sets below the walls of the great fantasy castle of Culzean (pron. Cullane) on the Ayrshire coast of the Firth of Clyde.

If you would like to download the February desktop, it is available in sizes of 1920x1200, 1280x1024, 1024x768 and 800x600.

For best results, do not use the photos from this blogger site but visit the Scottish Sea Kayaking Photo Gallery and click on the size of your desk top. Most visitors to this site use 1280x1024 or 1024x768. You can check your desktop size by right clicking anywhere on it then left click properties then left click settings.

Other months to follow....

Culzean Castle

I have mentioned this before, but a particular pleasure of Scottish paddling is seeing her great maritime castles from a new perspective. The romantic cliff top Culzean Castle was built between 1777 and 1792 by Robert Adam for David Kennedy, 10th Earl of Cassillis. It is built round the original keep walls and the famous oval staircase occupies almost all of the interior of the keep.

The top floor of the round tower forms part of the Eisenhower Suite. This was gifted to General Eisenhower by the Scottish people after WW2. He visited the suite 4 times.



Culzean estate is literally littered with interesting buildings. This is the Dolphin House which was originally the castle laundry. It is built right on the high water mark, on a raised beach at the foot of a cliff. It is now an outdoor education centre.



This is the Gazebo, which is perched at the north east end of the cliffs. Like many buildings at Culzean, such as the Ruined Arch at the main entrance, it was built as a ruin.



Not all the buildings were decorative. Below the Gazebo lies the gas house. Coal gas (or town gas) was discovered by William Murdoch a prolific Scottish inventor, chemist and engineer. Murdoch was born in Ayrshire, not very far from Culzean. The gas house at Culzean was the first in Scotland and lit the castle until 1940. Coal was brought in to the little jetty below the gas house and, even today, you can still find occasional pieces of coal at low tide. Another Scottish inventor, "Tar" John McAdam, invented metalled roads and laid the first stretch of tarmac on the Carrick Hills just north of Culzean.

Sunday afternoon tea and surf at Culzean Castle

Culzean Castle is perched precariously on the edge of cliffs.

It poured all morning but at 12 midday Tony and I decided to head for Maidens on the Ayrshire coast of the Firth of Clyde. The clouds and rain hung over Ayr on the journey down but the sun came out when we launched. The WWW is working well these days, Tony was most impressed.



We headed south from Maidens, past Turnberry light house then headed out into about 1m of swell off Turnberry Point. Then we ran with the swell all the way up to Carrick Bay, to the south of Culzean (pron. Culane). Most of the swell was about 1m but there were occasional biggies and on one of these I got a real good surf up to 20.3km/hr.


GPS screen dump.


Approaching Turnberry Point from the south.


Turnberry lighthouse.


Carrick Bay.

We had a very pleasant cup of tea in the magnificent sandy cove of Carrick which lies under the cliffs of Culzean. After exploring the sheltered shoreline beneath the Castle, we made our way home in the sunset. We got back to Maidens before dark.


Another fantastic day draws to a close.