Sea Kayakphoto.com trip index 2008

I have been posting little snippets of various trips concurrently. For those who would like to follow the thread of a single trip, I hope this index will be useful.

Less is more round Lismore!
27/12/08

What a carry on round the Mull!
15/12/08 The Mull of Galloway

Another West coast sunset! Firth of Clyde
14/12/08 Bute from Portencross,

Dunure from Maidens, Firth of Clyde
06/12/08

The Four Castles of Carrick, Firth of Clyde.
02/11/08 Turnberry to Ayr

The River Fleet from Fleet Bay
17/10/08

Loch nan Ceall and the Sound of Arisaig
13/09/08
14/09/08

To the Corryvreckan
30/08/08 Seil to Scarba via the Corryvreckan
31/08/08 Scarba to Seil via the Grey Dogs and the Cuan Sound

The Mull of Kintyre
26/07/08 Macrihanish to Sanda via the Mull
27/07/08 Sanda to Davaar Island

To Islay
12/07/08 Claggain Bay
13/07/08 Traigh Bhan
14/07/08 An Claddach
15/07/08 Port Askaig

To St Kilda
30/05/08 Loch Roag
31/05/08 Taransay
01/06/08 Monach Islands
02/06/08 Hirta and Dun
03/06/08 am Village Bay, Hirta
03/06/08 pm Boreray and the stacks
04/06/08 Loch Reasort to Scarp
05/06/08 Pabaigh Mor and Bhacsaigh

To the Garvellachs
10/05/08 Seil to the Grey Dogs via the Corryvreckan
11/05/08 Grey Dogs to the Garvellachs and Seil

Lady Isle
08/05/08 A busy night at Troon

Ailsa Craig
05/05/08 Gannets and granite

Fleet Bay
02/05/08 Solway sunshine

A misty Firth of Clyde
27/04/08 Maidens to Ayr

Arran
18/03/08 Portencross to Brodick via the Wee Cumbrae, Bute and Glen Sannox

Mull of Galloway
17/02/08 Ardwell Bay to East Tarbet

Dorus Mor
12/02/08 Craignish through the Dorus Mor to Crinan and Loch Craignish then back through the Dorus Mor as the sun set.

The four maritime castles of Carrick
20/01/08 Turnberry to Ayr.

The Cumbraes and Bute
12/01/2008 A day trip in the Clyde from Largs

Grimsay boats.

On the morning of 2/6/2008 we were awoken by the "put put" of a single cylinder diesel engine puttering round the turquoise waters of the Monach Islands. When we came up on deck our spirits were raised by the start of a fine day, this was the day we hoped to reach and paddle round the shores of St Kilda but at first we could not see the source of the sound.


Then a lobster boat took shape as she emerged from the burning reflection of the early morning sun. This was no ordinary GRP lobster boat. This was a Grimsay boat. The Grimsay boat is to the Outer Hebrides what the Model T Ford was to the rest of the World. These boats proved to be versatile for both transport and fishing throughout the isles. Since the 1840's it is estimated that over 1000 Grimsay boats were built by the Stewart family until their last full time builder died in 1994.

It was a joy to see this Grimsay boat being handled by Donald Brady from North Uist as he checked his lobster pots on the Monach islands. The Grimsay boats were of wooden clinker construction but with an exceptionally deep and fine keel. This allowed them to handle the Atlantic swell and surf found on the west coast of the Outer Hebrides. Due to the lack of harbours on the west coast, these boats were built in sizes of 10 to 28 feet. This allowed them to slip through tidal channels between the islands to sheltered anchorages on the east coast.

In 1928 the Grimsay yard launched the Morning Star. She was the link between the mainland of North Uist and the isolated community on the Monach Islands. She carried passengers, supplies and the mail. In recent years she had lain in disrepair in a mud berth in a creek of Loch Maddy in North Uist. She was restored and relaunched in 2007 by apprentices working at the Boatshed in Grimsay.

02/06/2008


We had seen other other Grimsay boats in various stages of restoration at Bhaltos when we first arrived on Lewis.

30/05/2008

The approach to Soay

As arranged, Cuma made rendezvous in Glen Bay, Hirta. Murty and Murdani conferred.


Then the Cuma made off for the Hirta Soay gap as a probe!


As she returned, Soay had gathered a wreath of cloud about her upper slopes and a freshening wind was blasting through the gap.

02/06/2008

The Dun gap, St Kilda

As we neared the end of our circumnavigation of Hirta we entered the narrow Dun gap which separates Hirta from its near neighbour Dun. Many sea kayaking trips never have the opportunity to go through here due to the huge swells which normally drive relentlessly through the gap. We were indeed privileged.


Once we were under the cliffs of Dun we could see the stack of Giasgeir with the hill of Oiseval, 293m, which forms the far side of Village Bay. A male eider duck came flying through at high speed.


Eiders are Britain's largest ducks. And are sometimes called "Whoo Whoo" birds on account of their mating calls in late winter and early spring.


As we emerged from the gap we turned sharp left before Giasgeir.


Murty knew of a large cave that led to a tunnel that would take us out into Village Bay on the far side. Sea kayaking doesn't get much better than this.

02/06/2008

The Riddle of Dun: subterranean sea kayaking!

We emerged from the cave on the Hirta side of the Dun Gap in the St Kilda archipelago. Our eyes adjusted to the light and now focussed on Hirta's smaller neighbour, the island of Dun.


We made good progress down the NE coast of Dun. The isolated stack of Levenish lay far out on the horizon. "This won't take long" we thought. The time was now 8pm, well past our dining hour.


Then Murty showed us the most amazing series of caves.


Each cave linked to another and we soon lost all sense of direction and time as we threaded our way through the maze of caverns.


This is probably the most amazing marine cave system in the British Isles!


It has been created by some of the most violent seas that hit the Britain's coasts.


We were so incredibly lucky to be here on a day which was calm enough to allow us to enter.


All thoughts of our evening meal were forgotten.


Each of us was lost in our thoughts as we drifted silently through the caves and arches in awe of nature's creation.


Eventually we emerged on the SW side of Dun, now knowing that it is an island riddled with caves.



02/06/2008

The great cave of Rubha Mhuirich, St Kilda

Continuing our circumnavigation of Hirta in the St Kilda archipelago, we came across the great cave of Rubha Mhuirich.


This huge cave is about 100m deep running straight into the cliffs. The MV Cuma was dwarfed by its scale


The light extended right to the back of the cave where there was a sandy beach. We could not land because of the amplification of the swells in the narrowing walls. One can only imagine the force of the ocean's fury in an Atlantic storm!

02/06/2008

The west coast of Hirta in the St. Kilda Archipelago

We emerged from the threatening darkness of the Hirta/Soay gap and made our way south down the west coast of Hirta.


Looking back to the north, Soay was still wreathed in its cap of cloud.


The cliffs on this side of Hirta were no less impressive than on its north side.


From the summit of Mullach Bi (358m) the great headland of Carn Mor plunges into the sea.As we approached we thought we could see light coming through what appeared to be a cave.


It turned out to be a long tunnel which made its way right through the headland from the west to the south coast of Hirta. It is called Geo Creag an Arpaid and we were lucky enough to be there when it was calm enough to paddle right through!

02/06/2008

Eyes front for the Old Man of Levenish!

As the St Kilda archipelago slowly heaved above the Atlantic horizon....all eyes were excitedly looking ahead.


The first stack we came to was Levenish. From the south east it looked rather uninteresting compared with its more distant neighbours. Then as we passed by we saw the face of the Old Man of Levenish as clear as day!



Behind Levenish lay the dramatic stacks of Stac Lee, Stac an Armin and the island of Boreray. We had nearly arrived at St Kilda!

02/06/2008

Arrival in Village Bay, St Kilda

Excitement was palpable aboard the Cuma as she steamed into Village Bay, on Hirta the main island of the St Kilda archipelago. We crowded the foredeck to get a better look!


We were not the only tourist boat to arrive ,there were 4 others of various sizes from the 2000 ton Russian Aleksey Maryshev to the small red boat above. With a force 6 southerly forecast for the following day all the others left and the Cuma was the only vessel to stay the night.


The village street was clearly visible behind the shore. The houses which have recently been re-roofed were supposed to be an improvement on the old black houses whose stones can still be seen between the more modern houses. The black houses had thicker walls with round corners and with their thatched roofs were better insulated and less noisy in the incessant winds than the modern square built houses with tin roofs. Wild Soay sheep can be seen grazing round the cottages.


All across the island these stone built cleits served as stores for dried birds and ropes.

We had arrived on one of the few light wind days of the year but it would be windy tomorrow....

02/06/2008

Sea Kayaking through the gates of Hell!

The Cuma reported a force 4 to 5 SW wind on the far side of the Hirta / Soay gap.


As we went down the west side of Stac Soay, the gap between it and Stac Biorach looked like the gates of Hell!


Fortunately we did not need to pass through to Hades as a tunnel appeared leading right through to the other side of Stac Soay.

02/06/2008

Unfortunately there will now be a short intermission. The staff of seakayakphoto come are headed for the fair isle of Islay. We have heard tales of many shore side distilleries, with magical names like Bruichladdich, Bowmore, Laphroaig, Lagavulin, Ardbeg, Caol Ila and Bunnahabhain.

We may be gone for some time.......

Sea Kayaking St Kilda: the great cave of Geo nan Plaidean

The north coast of Hirta in the St Kilda archipelago is a wild place. Much of it falls sheer into the sea from the heights above and forms the greatest and highest wall of sea cliffs in the British Isles.

After passing Mina Stac we came across the great cave of Geo nan Plaidean. The wall above it rises almost to the summit of Conachair, 430m.


Tony watches Fiona F and Alan entering the cave.


Clark leaves the cave with Mina Stac behind and Stac an Armin, Stac Lee and Boreray on the horizon.

02/06/2008

The great arch of Dun, St Kilda

We approached the great arch of Dun from the SW.


We were soon dwarfed by the sheer scale of the place and the tide was running out against us like a salty river.


Then as we entered the main portal we saw there were two exits to Village Bay. We chose the smaller one.


On exiting into the shelter of Village Bay we could have just headed for the Cuma and a hot shower. Instead we turned to the SE and rounded Gob an Duin, the most easterly point on Dun. Sadly I have no photographs as the wind against tide meant the point was quite lively. We then proceed up the coast of Dun and re-entered the SW portal of the great arch.


This was looking back through the NE portal as the others came through after me.


The flow of the tide had built up rather quicklysince our first transit of the arch....


and I was soon rejoining the others inside the arch again.

02/06/2008