The ancient keep of Ailsa

From the lighthouse, we made our way up to the ancient keep of Ailsa Craig castle. It was built in the late 14th century and granted to the abbots of Crossraguel Abbey by a charter of King Robert III in 1404.


The final approach to its austere walls was up a steep bank of bluebells whose colour matched the sky.


Although it was never laid ruin by a siege or by later builders looking for stones, its ancient corners have been weathered by centuries of winds.


Inside it is possible to climb to the great hall, if you step over the hole which leads to the dungeon.


Inside the hall the great fireplace and a side oven can still be seen. If you are very brave, it is possible to ascend to the roof by climbing on just the remaining outside edges of the spiral staircase.


It was a relief to step onto the security of Ailsa's rock again.

05/05/2008

The siren calls of Ailsa.

Emerging from the shade of Bare Stack we passed the north fog horn of Ailsa Craig. The north and south sirens were built at the same time as the lighthouse. An oil engine in the lighthouse buildings ran a compressor which fed air through pipes two and a half inches in diameter to the siren towers.


In Greek mythology, sweet singing sirens tempted ships to destruction on the rocks. Ailsa's sirens bellowed like a bull and had quite the opposite effect on sailors.


This warning sign is redundant. The sirens are long silent.


Soon the lighthouse came into view again.


We landed gently in a little bay of stones....


...before starting on our long climb to the lofty summit of Ailsa Craig.

05/05/2008

The lost puffins and last sea eagle of Ailsa Craig

As we continued round Ailsa Craig from the main gannet colonies, we came across some places where banks of grass grew on great heaps of rocks that had long ago broken free from the heights above.


At one time, 250,000 pairs of puffins bred here but they were exterminated by rats.


The rats were exterminated in the 1990 by poison and the puffins have now returned. In May 2008 we saw several hundred. Two years earlier we had seen only five!


Once past the puffin colony, we approach the brooding mass of Bare Stack. It was these still bare contours that took the brunt of the glacier which at one time scoured the Firth of Clyde. The spring air chilled as we enterd the shade of these heights.


High on the great overhanging cliff is a small ledge called the Eagle's Seat. The last breeding sea eagle was shot on Ailsa Craig in 1881. It measured seven feet from wing tip to wing tip and was displayed in Culzean Castle for many years. This year we saw sea eagles on Islay and the Mull of Kintyre.

One can only hope that like the puffins, they too will return to the rocky fastnesses of Ailsa.

05/05/2008

The Gannets of Ailsa Craig

As we rounded Stranny Point at the SW corner of Ailsa Craig we were struck by two things. The first was the wonderful quality of the light and clarity of the air.


The second was the sheer number and noise of thousands of croaking gannets. Over 40,000 pairs of gannets return to breed each spring after wintering in west Africa.


Every available ledge was occupied by a gannet nest and every inch was fiercely defended from any of its neighbours' encroachments.

Oh, I think I might have forgotten to mention the rich smell! Truly a visit to Ailsa Craig at breeding time is one of the natural world's great experiences!

05/05/2008

I am sorry not to have posted during my visit to Taiwan or during my recovery from jet lag!

The missing mermaids of the water cave, Ailsa Craig

Immediately to the west of Stranny Point on Ailsa Craig lies the beautiful Water Cave, with its pillared entrance at sea level. It is sometimes known as the Mermaids’ Cave and winds for 43m into the heart of the Craig and is best entered by kayak at high tide before exploring the remainder on foot. Low tide leaves a rocky sill with a deep pool within, which is difficult to cross on foot. On our visit we could hear the mournful wails of seals within so we decided not to disturb them. Of course we saw no mermaids either!


Despite not gaining access to the interior, we were entranced by this enchanting place. On top of surrounding rocks, left high and dry by the receding tide, seals basked in the sun. Could these be the missing mermaids of the cave?

05/05/2008

There will now be a break in posting. I am off to Taiwan for 10 days, after which normal service from seakayakphoto.com will be resumed!

Landfall on Ailsa Craig

Seeing Ailsa Craig on the horizon from our recent tour of the Ayrshire Carrick coast has brought back memories of a fabulous trip back in May. We made landfall on the spit of granite blocks which extends to the east of the isle. Above us the castle clung precariously to the steep slopes.


The Ailsa Craig lighthouse lies at the easternmost end of the spit. It was built in 1886 by Thomas and David A Stevenson. It has a white flash every four seconds.


After a brief lunch we set off to circumnavigate the island anticlockwise. If it is sunny this will give you the best light for photography on the dramatic west side. As we approached Stranny Point the air was filled with gannets.

05/05/2008

Lonely Loch Einich

As we made our way further up Gleann Einich we came across the Alt Ruigh na Sroine, the first of many streams to ford.


Later on the Beanaidh Bheag river was to prove far tougher and necessitated a change of socks.


As we gained height the mountain landscape became more dramatic.


Under wild skies the granite ridges were dusted with the first snows of winter.


The air was filled with the sound of burns tumbling down from high corries and rattling the boulders in their beds.


At last we breasted a moraine and below us lay lonely Loch Einich.


We were dwarfed by the scale of the landscape.


Loch Einich lies at a height of 598m. It is seldom visited, even in summer. On the 9th of September this year, Rothiemurchus Estate's head stalker, Peter Ferguson made a very sad discovery. He found a dead body inside a tent which had obviously been pitched for several weeks. The man had been a writer and photographer. I hope his death was peaceful as he was so far away from help and his family.


We started the long descent to Glen More as the clouds lowered from the high corries.


In the valleys it was still autumn and bright October sunshine had yet to give way to winter.


This little lochan reflected the beauty and tranquility of this wonderful place. By 16:30 we were a world away, back in Glasgow.

05/08/2008

Gleann Einich in the Cairngorms by mountain bike.

Over the last 10 days I have sea-kayaked, windsurfed and mountain biked across Scotland from Galloway to the Grampians (using a car to get from location to location). It has been a fantastic outdoor experience.


Today we mountain biked deep into the heart of the Cairngorm mountains making our way to high ground through stands of the ancient Caledonian forest.


It is a high plateau with deep glacial valleys radiating out from its heart.


We made our way into the depths of Gleann Einich which is overlooked by the jagged ramparts of Sgoran Dubh Mor, 1,111m.

Magnificent!

05/10/2008

Sea Kayakphoto.com trip index 2008

I have been posting little snippets of various trips concurrently. For those who would like to follow the thread of a single trip, I hope this index will be useful.

Less is more round Lismore!
27/12/08

What a carry on round the Mull!
15/12/08 The Mull of Galloway

Another West coast sunset! Firth of Clyde
14/12/08 Bute from Portencross,

Dunure from Maidens, Firth of Clyde
06/12/08

The Four Castles of Carrick, Firth of Clyde.
02/11/08 Turnberry to Ayr

The River Fleet from Fleet Bay
17/10/08

Loch nan Ceall and the Sound of Arisaig
13/09/08
14/09/08

To the Corryvreckan
30/08/08 Seil to Scarba via the Corryvreckan
31/08/08 Scarba to Seil via the Grey Dogs and the Cuan Sound

The Mull of Kintyre
26/07/08 Macrihanish to Sanda via the Mull
27/07/08 Sanda to Davaar Island

To Islay
12/07/08 Claggain Bay
13/07/08 Traigh Bhan
14/07/08 An Claddach
15/07/08 Port Askaig

To St Kilda
30/05/08 Loch Roag
31/05/08 Taransay
01/06/08 Monach Islands
02/06/08 Hirta and Dun
03/06/08 am Village Bay, Hirta
03/06/08 pm Boreray and the stacks
04/06/08 Loch Reasort to Scarp
05/06/08 Pabaigh Mor and Bhacsaigh

To the Garvellachs
10/05/08 Seil to the Grey Dogs via the Corryvreckan
11/05/08 Grey Dogs to the Garvellachs and Seil

Lady Isle
08/05/08 A busy night at Troon

Ailsa Craig
05/05/08 Gannets and granite

Fleet Bay
02/05/08 Solway sunshine

A misty Firth of Clyde
27/04/08 Maidens to Ayr

Arran
18/03/08 Portencross to Brodick via the Wee Cumbrae, Bute and Glen Sannox

Mull of Galloway
17/02/08 Ardwell Bay to East Tarbet

Dorus Mor
12/02/08 Craignish through the Dorus Mor to Crinan and Loch Craignish then back through the Dorus Mor as the sun set.

The four maritime castles of Carrick
20/01/08 Turnberry to Ayr.

The Cumbraes and Bute
12/01/2008 A day trip in the Clyde from Largs

The Sound of Islay

After disembarking from the ferry at Port Askaig, we wasted no time, in getting onto the water. We did not even stay to sample the ales of the Port Askaig hotel, whose beer garden conveniently overlooks this little jetty. It has been a licensed premises since the 16th century.

With the hills of Jura just a short distance away over the narrows, at 3 hours past the turn of the tide, the south going ebb was running strongly down the Sound of Islay. Even though it was neap tides, the current was sweeping past the mouth of the harbour and it was quite a sight to see a 3,000 ton ferry break out into the current. The combination of tide, wind and forecast made our decision to go south with the flow an easy one. We were on the water by 16:00 hours.


Although the spring rate in mid sound is 5 knots, we hit 10 knots in the current just outside the harbour. The wooded slopes of Dunlossit estate made a gentle introduction to the wild and remote east coast of Islay beyond. The south going ebb in the Sound of Islay starts at +05:15 HW Dover and the North going flood starts at -00:50 HW Dover. The spring rate is 5 knots.


We then made our way into mid channel to take maximum advantage of wind and tide. We averaged 12km/hour (6 knots) down the upper part of the Sound of Islay.


The tide slowed as we approached the entrance of the sound with Am Fraoch Eilean on the left and McArthur's Head on Islay straight ahead. The distant Kintyre peninsula can just be seen on the horizon. We now turned west and made for Islay's lonely eastern shores.


This map shows the GPS track of our route over the 4 days of our visit.

12/07/2008

Grimsay boats.

On the morning of 2/6/2008 we were awoken by the "put put" of a single cylinder diesel engine puttering round the turquoise waters of the Monach Islands. When we came up on deck our spirits were raised by the start of a fine day, this was the day we hoped to reach and paddle round the shores of St Kilda but at first we could not see the source of the sound.


Then a lobster boat took shape as she emerged from the burning reflection of the early morning sun. This was no ordinary GRP lobster boat. This was a Grimsay boat. The Grimsay boat is to the Outer Hebrides what the Model T Ford was to the rest of the World. These boats proved to be versatile for both transport and fishing throughout the isles. Since the 1840's it is estimated that over 1000 Grimsay boats were built by the Stewart family until their last full time builder died in 1994.

It was a joy to see this Grimsay boat being handled by Donald Brady from North Uist as he checked his lobster pots on the Monach islands. The Grimsay boats were of wooden clinker construction but with an exceptionally deep and fine keel. This allowed them to handle the Atlantic swell and surf found on the west coast of the Outer Hebrides. Due to the lack of harbours on the west coast, these boats were built in sizes of 10 to 28 feet. This allowed them to slip through tidal channels between the islands to sheltered anchorages on the east coast.

In 1928 the Grimsay yard launched the Morning Star. She was the link between the mainland of North Uist and the isolated community on the Monach Islands. She carried passengers, supplies and the mail. In recent years she had lain in disrepair in a mud berth in a creek of Loch Maddy in North Uist. She was restored and relaunched in 2007 by apprentices working at the Boatshed in Grimsay.

02/06/2008


We had seen other other Grimsay boats in various stages of restoration at Bhaltos when we first arrived on Lewis.

30/05/2008

Sunset surfing on the Corran Ra spit, Taransay.

Clark and Douglas at the Corran Ra wave. Photo Jennifer Wilcox.

Like many of the smaller Western Hebridean Isles such as Pabbay, the Atlantic swell wraps round both sides of the island of Taransay. Where the swells meet a sand bar is created. You can surf in on a wave then meet another wave coming in the opposite direction. Where they meet... Kapowwww! There was considerable testing of rolls, rescues and dry suits! Andy broke his paddle on a vigourous stern rudder. He made several vigourous attempts at bracing with half a paddle but ultimately enjoyed a taste of salt water. Fortunately he carried splits.


Tony on Corran Ra, Taransay


We surfed till long after sunset....


..... and returned to MV Cuma at 11pm.


Our first day's paddle had covered only 11km at Taransay. However, Tony, Jennifer and I had already covered 11km that morning in Loch Roag.

31/05/2008