Sea Kayakphoto.com trip index 2008

I have been posting little snippets of various trips concurrently. For those who would like to follow the thread of a single trip, I hope this index will be useful.

Less is more round Lismore!
27/12/08

What a carry on round the Mull!
15/12/08 The Mull of Galloway

Another West coast sunset! Firth of Clyde
14/12/08 Bute from Portencross,

Dunure from Maidens, Firth of Clyde
06/12/08

The Four Castles of Carrick, Firth of Clyde.
02/11/08 Turnberry to Ayr

The River Fleet from Fleet Bay
17/10/08

Loch nan Ceall and the Sound of Arisaig
13/09/08
14/09/08

To the Corryvreckan
30/08/08 Seil to Scarba via the Corryvreckan
31/08/08 Scarba to Seil via the Grey Dogs and the Cuan Sound

The Mull of Kintyre
26/07/08 Macrihanish to Sanda via the Mull
27/07/08 Sanda to Davaar Island

To Islay
12/07/08 Claggain Bay
13/07/08 Traigh Bhan
14/07/08 An Claddach
15/07/08 Port Askaig

To St Kilda
30/05/08 Loch Roag
31/05/08 Taransay
01/06/08 Monach Islands
02/06/08 Hirta and Dun
03/06/08 am Village Bay, Hirta
03/06/08 pm Boreray and the stacks
04/06/08 Loch Reasort to Scarp
05/06/08 Pabaigh Mor and Bhacsaigh

To the Garvellachs
10/05/08 Seil to the Grey Dogs via the Corryvreckan
11/05/08 Grey Dogs to the Garvellachs and Seil

Lady Isle
08/05/08 A busy night at Troon

Ailsa Craig
05/05/08 Gannets and granite

Fleet Bay
02/05/08 Solway sunshine

A misty Firth of Clyde
27/04/08 Maidens to Ayr

Arran
18/03/08 Portencross to Brodick via the Wee Cumbrae, Bute and Glen Sannox

Mull of Galloway
17/02/08 Ardwell Bay to East Tarbet

Dorus Mor
12/02/08 Craignish through the Dorus Mor to Crinan and Loch Craignish then back through the Dorus Mor as the sun set.

The four maritime castles of Carrick
20/01/08 Turnberry to Ayr.

The Cumbraes and Bute
12/01/2008 A day trip in the Clyde from Largs

A lack of Ardbeg in Islay's White Hart Hotel's public bar.

As we were searching for a place to camp on the west shore of Kilnaughton Bay on Islay we came across the square tower of the Carraig Fhada lighthouse. It was built by David Hamilton and Son in 1832. It was taken over by the Northern Lighthouse Board in 1924. From the SE, the correct approach shows a white sector which is flanked by red and green sectors. The light flashes every 3 seconds.

In the distance we spotted the White Hart Hotel a prominent 3 storey building at the left hand end of Charlotte street in Port Ellen which fronts onto the shore of Kildalton Bay. After making camp and eating, David, Tony and I decided to walk the 5km into the Port Ellen. Our path took us over rocks, dunes, heath then a track before crossing a beach, fording a river then climbing a steep stone staircase and through a spooky wood before emerging onto a road that eventually led to the hotel. Quite a tricky route in the daylight when sober.

We entered the White Hart Hotel's public bar to find it to be like a licensed version of the Marie Celeste. All the lights and the television were on and the bar appeared to be fully equipped and ready for serving but there were no staff or customers apart from ourselves. After several "halloos" had failed to even raise a shadow of a barman and after pangs of thirst were gripping our throats we realized it was a Sunday evening. But Islay is not like the northern Outer Hebrides which are in the grip of a stern Calvinism that frowns on the opening of bars on the Sabbath. Surely it must be possible to get a drink. I espied a ship's bell at the side of the bar, I gave the clapper a firm tug. DING.... was followed by silence. Another DING and we were still thirsty. DING ALING ALING ADING. The young barmaid seemed genuinely surprised to see us but efficiently poured a round of Guinness.

Each time our glasses required replenishing we rang the bell. Eventually some locals arrived. One 18 year old recounted a sad tale of how his overindulgence in drink had cost him his effing job, his effing house and his effing woman. We ordered another round and laughed at the TV as Jeremy Clarkson on Top Gear told a funny story about a sat nav system afflicted by Tourette syndrome.

After enjoying some excellent Guinness we decided to finish the evening off with a nightcap or two of the local nectar: Ardbeg malt whisky. We were absolutely amazed to discover that not only was this particular libation unavailable but there were no other Scottish malts available either. The only "similar" liquor on sale was Jack Daniels and this in a Scottish bar on an island with nine distilleries and one which is less than 6km from the hallowed premises in which the Ardbeg is distilled!

The Tennessee distillation may go down well on the other side of the pond but it has only the most tenuous of Celtic connections (and Welsh at that) to the true Uisge Beatha. If this is what our young friend had been drinking, then we were not prepared to also loose everything by accepting it as a substitute. We remonstrated with the barmaid and she then told us we might get some Ardbeg through in the lounge bar. We asked directions and were told we would need to go out into the street along a bit then in the hotel's main door, some confusing directions within the building then followed but were not remembered. Our concern was that it was very close to closing time and would we be readmitted?

Fortunately the empty lounge bar was well staffed by two barmen and we were able to take a night cap or two of the Ardbeg. Afterwards, somewhat sated, we emerged into a moonless night. The only light came from the Port Ellen maltings which roasts the barley required of the whisky making process. We found the heady aroma of burning peat and roasting grains to be quite intoxicating.

Then we were in the dark, with a long way back to the tents through spooky wood and all....

13/07/2008

Retreat from the Mull of Oa

From Texa to the Mull of Oa is 14km and then another 10km from there to the camp site at Kintra on Laggan Bay. The wind was still light but by the time we got to the Mull of Oa, the ebb tide (SE going) would be at its maximum against us. Billy and Mair decided to stay on the east of the Mull and go and explore Port Ellen. Tony, David and I thought we might be able to eddy hop round the rocks before the forecast wind picked up... so off we went.


On the way to Rubha nan Leacan, the most SE point on the Oa, we passed this basalt dyke, evidence of past volcanic activity. Unfortunately the sky began to cloud over and the wind picked up with the approaching front. David's back was giving him problems and we had to land to give him a rest on a steep cleft in the rocks just before the point.


On relaunching, the MSI weather forecast came over the VHF: force 5-6 SW winds tonight and 6-7 SW winds for the following day with similar for the next few days. The west coast of the Oa is not a place you can easily escape from if you have several days of winds of that strength. Not only that, as we rounded Rubha nan Leacan, it was obvious that the race was much closer to the rocks than we had hoped for. A red and white workboat was rolling wildly as it came round the Mull with the tide race. Tony and I looked at one another and shook our heads. We turned back towards Port Ellen, the Mull would always be there another day.


In the meantime, the wind and waves had picked up so we made very rapid progress back along the Oa peninsula. David had got a new lease of life and forged ahead. We had warned him about landing on the attractive, steep little beach but the back of the surf looked so innocent.... Here he is recovering his things after a good trashing and a bail out landing. Tony and I were not going to risk the same, so we stayed out beyond the surf zone shouting instructions on how to do a surf launch. Determined not to be left on the beach, David proved to be a quick learner, well after another five or so trashings, he learned!


All safely at sea again, we approached another sandy beach which was sheltered by some offshore stacks and reefs.


This proved to be a good spot to land and more importantly to be able to launch again in the following day's predicted strong SW winds. Billy and Mair had already found the same spot and had set up camp on the machair behind the beach. Tony, David and I reckoned we were thirsty enough to warrant a cross country jaunt into Port Ellen to seek some refreshment....

13/07/2008

The State of Texa

The island of Texa lies just a kilometer off the SE coast of Islay in the Inner Hebrides of Scotland. While we were cruising down Texa's west coast we spied two gable ends high on the hill above us.


We landed at a little quay below the building. Famished and quite exhausted by our exertions since second breakfast, we decided to partake of a long and leisurely third breakfast prior to any exploration of the isle.


Pushing our way through shoulder high bracken, we made our way up to the ancient lichen encrusted walls. It turned out to be a chapel which was built in the 14th century. St Kenneth(whose chapel we visited last year on lovely Inch Kenneth) was a friend of St Columba and stopped off on Texa while travelling between Iona and Ireland. It is likely that the current chapel was built on the site of an earlier chapel dating from St Kenneth's time.

Texa remained inhabited until the 19th century and its population were known as Texans. Not many people know that St Kenneth was a Texan.

Tony, David and myself decided we would try and head out west round Islay's Mull of Oa. Billy and Mair decided to explore Kilnaughton Bay and Port Ellen. Given how long we had dallied, the approaching weather front and how the tide was running, the latter option was to prove eminently more sensible.

13/07/2008

Amiralty warning: "Rollers break on the beach".

Once we had rounded Rubha na Lice, to the south of the Mull of Kintyre lighthouse, the fog started to lift. Sadly an RAF Chinook helicopter crashed here in thick fog in 1994. All 29 people on board were killed.
Photo Tony Page.


The wild landscape, which we had paddled past without seeing, was at last revealed.


The coast was littered with the wreckage of ships.


We approached the final major headland of Sron Uamha at 13:46. If we had arrived at 11:40 then we would have met what the Admiralty Pilot gives grave warnings of: a delightful tidal phenomenon of "rollers break on the beach".


As it was, we passed Sron Uamha (Point of the Cave) while all was quiet.


Our mood lifted as we left the scene of so many wrecks and such loss of life. The sun now burned strongly in the mid summer sky.

26/07/2008

Mulling it over with a dram of malt on Islay

From Eilean Imersay we were now bound for the Isle of Texa on Islay's SE coast. To the east, the distant mountains of Arran rose above the long peninsula of Kintyre.


Note how Tony is looking wistfully at the distant Mull of Kintyre!


On our way to Texa we passed two of the three whisky distilleries that grace this part of Islay's coastline. The first was Ardbeg, a superb peaty malt.


The second was Lagavulin, producers of another fine malt whisky. Sadly we decided to pass them by as we had thoughts of rounding the still distant Mull of Oa later in the day.

I am now off on my own holiday to the Solway, so posting on our Islay trip may be irregular. If you want to read more of Islay I can recommend two blogs by other visitors to this fantastic island: Armin's Islay Blog and Ron's Islay Weblog.

13/07/2008

Shaggy dogs on Eilean Imersay, Islay

The SE coast of Islay is a maze of reefs and islands. Some of the channels dry out as the tide recedes like this one inside Eilean Mhic Mhaolmhoire.


After a short drag we were afloat again.


Another maze of channels announced our arrival at Eilean Imersay.


We enjoyed second breakfast on this idyllic beach on Eilean Imersay.



David entertained the male members of the party with a series of shaggy dog stories (he is a vet, raconteur and bon viveur). Mair hung her head in despair at how easily the male mind is amused.

13/07/2008

Sand, sea, sun and blue sky on Islay!

On the second day of our Islay trip we awoke to find ourselves on an idyllic spread of machair above a white shell sand beach. The sun was shining the sky was blue and only a light breeze ruffled the waters of the bay. The only cloud on our horizon was the inshore waters forecast for Mull of Kintyre to Ardnamurchan Point. Winds west 3 to 4 backing SW and increasing 5 to 6 later (after 5pm).


What do you do on a beach but build sand castles? My little plastic spade doubles up as a sheep shit clearer on the camp site!


We set off to the south leaving the Sound of Islay and the mountains of Jura behind.


After rounding Ardmore Point we would turn to the SW following Islay's whisky coast! In the distance the Mull of Kintyre could just be seen on the horizon. Little did we know that we would be rounding the Mull within the fortnight!


After passing through Caolas Port na Lice we entered an enchanting area of scattered skerries called Plod Sgeirean. In the distance, the Irish hills of Antrim now drew the eye onward.

13/07/2008

Over the sea to the fair isle of Islay

As we crossed the Sound of Jura, towards the Sound of Islay, a force 5 wind was blowing from the north west. The air was very clear and to the north the Paps of Jura heaved above the horizon. However, the wind meant that we would need to plan our sea kayaking adventure carefully. Initial plans to paddle against the tide and head north towards the island of Colonsay were put to one side.


Mair and Billy had met David and myself at Kennacraig, on the west coast of the Mull of Kintyre. We had promised ourselves a trip to Islay for too long, now it was a reality! We were to meet Tony on Islay at Port Askaig. He had already enjoyed a family holiday for a week on the island.


The MV Hebridean Isles docked right on time as we were putting the final bags into the kayaks.


We used trolleys to wheel them onto the car deck. The kayaks travel for £10 return on any Caledonian Macbrayne crossing. Note the strap restraining the kayaks for a windy crossing. Normally they do not bother.


Our excitement mounted as we approached the tiny Port Askaig. It lies at the foot of steep cliffs. Rather I should say lay at the foot of steep cliffs. The port is midway through a 13 million pound redevelopment that has carved a new approach and waiting area from the cliffs (destroying two of the villages few houses) and constructed a new roll on roll off jetty.

Also noticeable is the Islay Severn class lifeboat Helmut Schroder of Dunlossit II. This has been on station since 1997. On 18 December 1991, the previous Thames class boat, Helmut Schroder of Dunlossit, was involved in the dramatic of nearly 50 souls from the Russian fish factory vessel Kartli.


Port Askaig is one of Islay's two ferry terminals. The other is on the south of the island at Port Ellen. Port Askaig is also the terminal for the MV Eilean Dhiura which crosses 0.9km of the Sound of Isla to Feolin on Jura.

We had arrived on Islay!

12/07/2008