Imagine you are at the edge of the sea on a day when it is difficult to say where the land ends and the sea begins and where the sea ends and the sky begins. Sea kayaking lets you explore these and your own boundaries and broadens your horizons. Sea kayaking is the new mountaineering.
Sunday, December 09, 2007
Wind turbines on Windy Standard
The weather has not been particularly conducive to sea paddling this weekend so Tony and I decided to go for a little bike run in Galloway instead. We planned to cycle over Windy Standard, a 698m hill in the Carsphairn Forest.
The clear sky of the morning gave way to mist and sleety rain. As we climbed through the clouds we heard a "whoosh whoosh whoosh" long before we saw the wind farm. It was quite surreal cycling along at above 600m in height with 36 turbines all round us. Windy Standard currently generates up to 21.6 megawatts but another 30 turbines are planned. My legs could have done with some of that power.
We got up to 685m which was above the snowline. Bob the dog had never seen snow before.
We needed to stop for a breather, below the cloud line, after a white knuckle descent.
We did 31km and ascended a total of 940m in just under 4 hours. I was quite pleased with that!
Saturday, December 08, 2007
Reclining nude figure of Uisken
The reclining nude (and cross legged) figure of Uisken can be seen at low tide among the skerries.
20/07/07
Friday, December 07, 2007
Exsisto paratus on the Ross of Mull.
It was a long paddle back from Malcolm's Point to Uisken. We stopped at this deserted and unnamed white shell sand beach.
There was not a hostelry in sight. We had to wash our freshly caught mackerel down with what ever refreshment we had to hand. Exsisto paratus.
We did not want the day to stop so we took a little detour past Uisken, through the skerries, to Ardalanish Bay.
We turned back from Ardalanish as the sun began to sink in the west.
The skerries of Uisken are such a maze, it is unlikely you would ever retrace your wake.
20/07/2007
Wednesday, December 05, 2007
"I'm at the Arches"
Carsaig #1 from Carsaig #2
Carsaig #1 from the sea.
"I'm at the Arches."
Even the great Carsaig Arches are dwarfed by the scale of Malcolm's Point. mind you if this is the size of his point, what size was Malcolm?
20/07/2007
Tuesday, December 04, 2007
Carsaig Arches, Mull
Not far from the great slab of Leac nam Leum, there are even greater wonders of Mull's volcanic past.
The Carsaig Arches are now high above the sea but during the last Ice Age, when water levels were higher, Atlantic swells surged through the arches.
Hexagonal basalt columns teeter on top of layers of lava.
In turn the lava layers are interspersed with layers of volcanic ash. The ash is very soft and can be picked with a fingernail. As you can see, wave action is undercutting the basalt by wearing away the ash. One day, probably quite soon in geological terms, the whole lot will come toppling down.
Might I be presumptuous and recommend that you visit the Carsaig Arches sooner rather than later?
20/07/2007
Sunday, December 02, 2007
Look before you leap.
We landed on extremely slippy green boulders at the foot of Malcolm's Point.
Mike is dwarfed by the scale as he casts a line from Leac nan Leum.
We were unprepared for the huge scale of Leac nan Leum, a great basalt slab, which stretched for hundreds of metres. This was testament to the violent volcanic past of the island of Mull during which, huge volumes of lava spilled down from the Ben More volcano. Even today, after some 50 million years of erosion, the lava fields are up to 1.8km thick.
Leac nam Leum is Gaelic for Slab of the Leap....
At its eastern end, the slab is riven by a great chasm over which one of our ancestors is reputed to have leapt while being pursued by an army of dreadful giants or some such terror.
Tony, who did not have the same constraints on his time, made a more measured judgement and, after a long look, decided not to leap.
20/07/2007
Picture problem in Blogger
Since November 30th there has been a problem with the way Blogger displays large pictures when you click on the small picture embedded in the Blog page. Blogger are aware of the issue and Blog authors can fix it by editing the html references to each picture on each page. If you have your own Blog, the explanation of how to do so is here.
I have now fixed my pages of 30/11 and 1/12 and I hope the Blogger team will have the issue resolved soon.
I have now fixed my pages of 30/11 and 1/12 and I hope the Blogger team will have the issue resolved soon.
Saturday, December 01, 2007
Howling wolf rock (not the blues).
Shortly after leaving Uisken we passed "howling wolf rock". Rocks whose shape looks like something else are called mimetoliths. This mimetolith is the only grey wolf we saw on our travels. The wolves were native to Scotland but the last was exterminated in 1743.
We gathered the most wonderful seasoned wood from the top of one of the beaches. We filled all the hatches of our kayaks and took it back to Fidden beach which had been stripped bare of firewood. It was to provide the best sea kayaking fire we have ever enjoyed but it did not need to frighten off any wolves. The farmer's dog was quite unafraid of fire and made off with half of David's tea.
20/07/2007
Friday, November 30, 2007
Uisken to Malcolm's Point
After our circumnavigation of Iona we were looking for a more restful day so we ran the kayaks by car along to Uisken on the south coast of the Ross of Mull. We were bound for Malcolm's Point a mere 11km along the coast to the east.
Making progress along the first part was somewhat difficult given that there were deserted white shell sand beaches round every corner.
When we rounded Rubha nam Braithrean the bay opened out and Malcolm's Point lay before us.
As we approached, we were dwarfed by the scale of the cliffs. Layer upon layer of volcanic ash alternating with basalt lava flow soared over 300m above us.
20/07/2007
Thursday, November 29, 2007
End of a perfect day on Iona
After leaving Iona Abbey and Martyr's Bay Restaurant and Bar David and Mike headed straight back across the Sound of Iona for Fidden. Tony and I decided to do a little more paddling and found this amazing cave (complete with white sand beach) on the SE of Iona about 21:30hrs.
On finally leaving Iona, we took a last detour via Tinker's Hole. We eventually returned to Fidden at 22:30. We had covered a mere 34km but felt we deserved a rest.
19/07/2007
Wednesday, November 28, 2007
An Iona fishergirl
Leaving Market Bay on the Ross of Mull, we paddled back towards Iona in the still of a perfect summer evening. We passed the lovely hamlet of Kintra at the mouth of the Sound of Iona but the tide had now turned and we had to fight the increasing flood current which was flowing against us through the Bull Hole. This is a narrow channel between the Ross of Mull and Eilean Nam Ban. Ahead, some basking seals ignored us, they could see we were making almost no progress. We then ferried over to the island side and on across the Sound of Iona.
We landed below the village just as the last ferry departed with its load of tourists. A little local girl, sitting with her father in a beautiful white clinker built boat, asked “Is that a sea kayak?”
“Yes it is” I replied.
“I would love to do that” she said, wistfully.
“Well you very lucky, you are in the right place for it.”
Her dad then said “Aye, she likes the sea; she’s been helping with the lobster pots today.”
19/07/2007
Tuesday, November 27, 2007
Munching Mull mackerel in Market Bay
After Mike caught some mackerel, we needed to find somewhere to land. There can be no finer land fall than Market Bay (Traigh na Margaidh) on the Ross of Mull.
Straight out of the sea into the pan and fried with a little salt and dill; what a feast!
We also had time for a swim and some climbing on the granite torrs before heading back to Iona.
19/07/2007
Sunday, November 25, 2007
Mountain biking Glen Trool Blue route and Bennan
The summit of wind swept Bennan in the Galloway Hills.
Jennifer with Bennan disappearing into the mist.
We have recently visited the Glen Trool Blue route a couple of times to increase our cardiovascular fitness and stamina to cope with winter paddling conditions in Scotland. The Blue route has some fantastic berms on its final decent and is certainly not blue at the speed we go down it. However, it is only 8km long, so on our first visit we went round it twice.
Today we decided to tack the gruelling ascent of Bennan (562m) on to make it a little longer.
Mike, Jennifer, Tony and Bob on the way up. The way back down to the blue route passed in a blur.
We rejoined the blue route for its final decent.
Glen Trool is down there in the mist.
One fantastic berm after another leads to...
...a final blast through a larch plantation.
19 km and 688m of ascent.
We deserved a pint of Guinness in the Black Bull (est 1766), Straiton on the way home. In case you think we have undone all the goodness of the exercise, here is a fascinating scientific fact which I gleaned from television last night. Imagine four pint glasses on a bar. The first is filled with milk, the second with freshly squeezed orange juice, the third with lager and the last with Guinness. Which one has fewest calories?
Well it's the Guinness of course. It's a health drink!
25/11/2007
04/11/2007
Saturday, November 24, 2007
Getting old
Turnberry lighthouse is surrounded by a seething sea kicked up by a force seven sou'westerly.
Yesterday we had no wind and full sunshine, I was looking forward to a calm paddle in crisp winter sunshine today.
It would have been good for windsurfing but it was only 7 degrees. I must be getting old, I went for a quiet walk round Culzean instead.
24/11/2007
Friday, November 23, 2007
Five little fishies
Leaving Eilean Annraidh, we crossed the Sound of Iona and made our way east along the north coast of the Ross of Mull. We paused off the headland of Rubha nan Cearc while Mike got his trusty rod out. He quickly caught five fat mackerel and we looked for somewhere to land....
19/07/2007
Thursday, November 22, 2007
Eilean Annraidh, Iona
This view from Eilean Annraidh, which lies to the north of Iona, has inspired artists for at least 200 years. In the distance lies Ulva and the Wilderness of Mull.
We landed here for a rest after making our way up the west coast of Iona.
Labels:
beaches,
Iona,
Mull,
Ulva,
Wilderness
Wednesday, November 21, 2007
Bay at the Back of the Ocean, Iona
This incredible cove is at the north end of Camas Cuil an t-Saimh (Bay at the Back of the Ocean) on the west coast of Iona. It is near to Port Bhan. This view is more reminiscent of the Outer Hebrides than the Inner Hebrides. The rock here is ancient grey gneiss unlike the relatively young, red granite of the Ross of Mull which is only a few kilometres away.
19/07/2007
Tuesday, November 20, 2007
Spouting cave, Iona
We circumnavigated Iona in an anticlockwise direction. We rounded its south west headland to discover a wonderland of stacks, islands, tidal channels hidden bays and caves.
This cave was deep and had amazing colours in the walls. There was white shell sand below its turquoise water...
...and a little sandy beach right at the back of the cave.
The next cave is called "spouting cave". In the gentle swell it was more like a kettle than a cave but you can imagine what it would be like in an Atlantic storm.
19/07/2007