Hand dived scallops of Harris.

It was quite windy in Loch Reasort, a deep sea loch on the west coast of Harris in the Outer Hebrides. It was perhaps a little too breezy for sea kayaking.


So we went for a walk...


....while the divers went... diving in nearby Loch Tamnabhaigh.


They brought up a good haul of hand dived scallops. Recently StuartA commented "Maybe for hand-caught scallops? Yum!"


There is a worrying number of bits and pieces in there...


... but as Stuart said, Yum! (This photo Mike Marshall.)

12/06/2006

Greenan, the fourth castle of Carrick, and a corpse.

Leaving Dunure (and its quickly receding tide) we made good progress NE towards the Heads of Ayr.


Spying a convenient landing spot, we took a short break at Bracken Bay.


We passed the Heads of Ayr, which are the remains of the lava flow from a volcano on the Carrick Hills. This was active (at the same time as Ailsa Craig) when Europe and America began to drift apart as the Atlantic Ocean widened.


At last we paddled past Greenan Castle, the fourth castle on this sea kayaking tour of "the four coastal castles of Carrick".


This photo (from a previous trip on 09/11/2003) shows the castle's supreme defensive position on the very edge of a cliff to the south of Ayr. There have been defensive buildings on this site for over a thousand years but the present tower house dates from the 16th century.

In 1602 Sir Thomas Kennedy of Culzean spent the night at Greenan prior to setting off on a long ride Edinburgh. Unfortunately he only made it a few miles to St. Leonard's woods in Ayr. He was ambushed and murdered there by a kinsman, Thomas Kennedy of Drummurchie, who was a Bargany Kennedy. The Culzean and Bargany Kennedys were bitter enemies and their long and bloody feud was immortalised by Sir Walter Scott in "An Ayrshire Tragedy" and by SR Crocket in "The Grey Man".

The road where Sir Thomas's corpse was discovered was renamed Corsehill Road. I used to live in Corsehill Road and on stormy nights, when the wind was howling through the trees, it was always a relief to shut and bolt the door!


The day was nearly done by the time we got back to Seafield beach at Ayr. We made our way home up Corsehill Road in the gathering winter darkness. Of Sir Thomas, there was not a sight. May he rest in peace.

And that brings to a close our four castles (and three pints and innumerable tales) of Carrick sea kayaking tour. I hope you have enjoyed "paddling" along with us on the way.

20/01/2008

The tidal anomaly of the third castle of Carrick.

Paddling north from Culzean Bay we rounded a headland and found ourselves under the grim walls of Dunure castle. This is the third castle on our "Four Castles" tour. As Scottish castles were built by people who did not particularly like their neighbours, they are separated by respectable distances and, as a result, we were by now feeling both tired and thirsty.


We decided to cheer ourselves by taking a short break.


Despite the fact we ran all the way back from the pub, we were somewhat surprised to discover just how far the tide had gone out. We could only conclude that there is either a previously unreported tidal anomaly in the Clyde or a localised warp in the space time continuum!

A ship's bell rings down the years.

This is the bell of the SS Valkyrian, which was wrecked off Dunure harbour in Ayrshire. I recently posted about the bravery of William "Buckie" Munro and 30 other fishermen from Dunure who bravely rescued all but one of the Vakyrian's crew.

I was absolutely delighted to receive a comment from William Munro, who is a descendant of Buckie Munro. It turns out the bell remained in the possession of his family until 1985! He has very kindly added to and corrected some the information I discovered in Dunure and on the internet.

Here is his comment:


"What is shown in your good account is not a postcard but a painting of the ship which previously was hanging on the wall in Mr Mckinney Maersk Moller's office in Copenhagen.


It was presented to me by Mr Moller in December 1985. Thus the date is in fact 1986 on the inscription. It was presented to me as a gift when the bell from the ship (photo in your article)was donated to the Maersk museum in Copenhagen. It had been in the family since the time of the sinking."

What a wonderful story, two families exchanging tokens and mementos of a momentous event which had thrown their ancestors together 102 years before! Of course, if we had paddled from headland to headland, we would have missed Dunure and been none the wiser. This is an important part of the history of this coastline and now thanks to William we have a first hand account of a consequential event. I have corrected and added to my previous posts.

20/01/2008

Work and play in Culzean Bay.

Leaving Culzean Castle, we continued NE across the sand rimmed Culzean Bay. We came across this catamarn fishing vessel. She is the Sea Venture and she has applied for membership of the Responsible Fishing Scheme. Although registered in Campbeltown, her home port is Carradale some 55km away, on the far side of Arran.


She was lying to two anchors and appeared to have been dredging for shell fish as the crewman was sorting his catch on a riddle. Possibly she was fishing for razor, shells though the sustainability of harvesting these slow growing bivalves in the Clyde and effect on other species is not yet established. Razor shells are seldom eaten in Scotland though they are in great demand in southern Europe.

We exchanged waves with the crewman as we passed. We left him hard at work on the riddle and we made our way north east to Dunure, where we had an appointment.

20/01/2008

Eisenhower, the Kennedys and Washington.

Leaving Carrick shore, we left Ailsa Craig behind us but our view was soon dominated by the Victorian south wing of Culzean (pron. Cullane) Castle. This is the second castle of our "Four Castles" tour of Ayrshires's Carrick coastline.


The main part of the castle was built between 1777 and 1792 for Robert Kennedy the 10th Earl of Cassillis (pron. castles) a member of the powerful Ayrshire Kennedy family. His cousin, Captain Archibald Kennedy, the 11th Earl of Cassillis, was a distinguished naval commander who broke the siege of Lisbon 1760. On retiring from the sea, he moved to New York and lived at No. 1 Broadway. At a little diplomatic incident in 1773, known as the Boston Tea Party, Captain Archibald felt unable to take part on the American side. George Washington evicted him and moved into No. 1 Broadway himself. It was fortunate that the good Captain had this little place in Scotland to fall back upon!


The present romantic and decorative castle was designed and built by Robert Adam. He built it round the earlier stone keep of the original fortified tower house which dated back to 1165. Some of the internal walls are therefore 12 feet thick! Adam's famous oval staircase, in the centre of the castle, is built within the walls of the original keep.

When the Kennedys gifted Culzean to the National Trust of Scotland in 1945, they asked that rooms should be given to General Eisenhower as a lifetime gift from the Scottish people after the end of WW2. The Eisenhower flat occupied the top floor of the castle, as seen in the photograph above. He spent four happy holidays here, one of which was when he was President. He enjoyed walking in the grounds, watching the wildlife, painting and of course golf at nearby Turnberry!

The amazing thing about sea kayaking round Scottish waters is how much history you come across. Not just Scottish history, but given the Scots' long history of emigration, the history of many other countries as well.

Who would have thought that one American (who would become president) would have evicted a Kennedy of Culzean out of his home and another American (who would also become president) would be given a guest flat by the descendents of that same Kennedy?

20/01/2008

And pretty maids all in a row.

"With silver bells, and cockle shells,
And pretty maids all in a row."

Leaving the ancient stones of Turnberry Castle we made our way north past a series of rocky skerries called the Maidens. They were the ruin of many ships but also gave shelter if the sailors had sufficient local knowledge. In later years a sea wall was built that linked a series of the Maidens and a bell was hung at its end. It was rung to guide returning sailors to the safety of Maidens harbour.

We stopped at the delightful little cove called Carrick Bay which nestles in between the cliffs at the south end of Culzean estate. The sands of these bays are rich with cockles, scallops and Norwegian prawns many of which find their way to the restaurant tables in Spain.

20/01/2008

All the King's horses...

All the King's horses and all the King's men couldn't put Turnberry together again.

Most people paddling past the crumbling remains of Turnberry Castle will hardly notice its existence. Their gaze will be drawn instead to the lighthouse which is built within the castle's ancient walls.

Yet in its day, it was a magnificent stronghold, which was built on a promontory, surrounded on three sides by the sea. On the seaward side, the castle was built over over an inlet with a cave at its rear. In times of siege the castle could be resupplied from the sea. Ships could enter the inlet beneath a great arch in the castle's walls. A portcullis could be lowered behind the ship and provisions could be carried up through the cave into the heart of the castle. A reconstruction of the castle in its heyday can be seen on the local town of Maybole's website.


Tony paddled right into the inlet which is now mostly filled with rubble from the collapsed walls of the castle. You can still see the lines of the arch from the carved stones which formed its foundations on either side of the inlet. The entrance to the cavern, which gave access to the castle, is also seen.

The castle dates from the 12th Century and was the seat of the Earls of Carrick. One of the Earls died leaving a young countess as a widow. One day she spied a handsome knight making his way past the castle. She became so infatuated with him that had him kidnapped upon his return. He turned out to be a Norman nobleman, Robert de Brus, Lord of Annandale. She persuaded him to marry her and their son Robert the Bruce became Earl of Carrick. Later he became King Robert I of Scotland and defeated Edward II of England at the battle of Bannockburn in 1314.

The Earldom of Carrick became part of the titles of the Scottish monarchs. After the Union of the Crowns in 1603, when King James VI of Scotland became James I of Great Britain, the Earldom of Carrick passed into the linage of the British Royal Family. The current holder is Prince Charles whose full title is prince of Wales and earl of Chester, duke of Cornwall, duke of Rothesay, earl of Carrick and Baron Renfrew, Lord of the Isles, and Prince and Great Steward of Scotland.

The strategic position of Turnberry was again recognised in the two World wars when an RFC then RAF airfield was constructed here. Although mainly a training aerodrome, its Beaufort, Hampden, Venture, Beaufighter and Hudson torpedo planes and maritime bombers played a role in the defence of the Clyde's vital shipping routes in WW2.

20/01/2008

Rockhopping in the wake of the Stevensons.

I have posted about Turnberry lighthouse before. This lighthouse will be a familiar sight to TV golf fans as the Open Championship has been held here in 1977, 1986 and 1994.

Turnberry lighthouse was built on the recommendation of the Receiver of Wrecks in the nearby town of Ayr. The reefs of Turnberry Point and nearby Brest (or Bristo) Rocks were notorious as the graveyard of many ships making their way to and from the busy ports in the Firth of Clyde. The lighthouse engineers, David and Thomas Stevenson, recommended construction on the point rather than on the offshore rocks and it was completed in 1873.


It is funny how we Scottish sea kayakers often find ourselves rockhopping in the wake of the Stevensons.

20/01/2008

Dunure, the birth place of one of the world's largest shipping lines.

I recently posted how the fishermen of the fishing hamlet of Dunure rescued all but two souls from the crews of the Valkyrian and the Iron Duke. Both ships were wrecked on the reefs of Dunure on the night of 11th December 1883. Who would have thought that the bravery of Buckie and his neighbours that night would have resulted in the birth of one of the World's largest shipping lines?


One of the lucky men to be rescued that night was Captain Peter Maersk Moller of the Valkyrian. She was a 381 ton Danish sailing barque bound for Glasgow from Virginia when she got caught in hurricane force winds in the Clyde. Her sails were torn away and she drifted towards the Ayrshire coast. She tried to put out her anchor but the cable broke before the steam paddle tug Iron Duke could reach her. The Iron Duke's engine failed and she was also driven onto the rocks at Dunure and wrecked shortly afterwards.

Here is an account in Captain Maersk Moller's own words:

"The "Valkyrian" sailed on 7th November 1883 from New Port Mews, Virginia, carrying walnut wood. The voyage was smooth, on Thursday 11th December, I passed close by Corsewall Point in a moderate southerly gale. When the watch was set at 8p.m. there was a strong gale, SW to SSW. We drifted along the coast with enough room to keep going throughout the night, but at about 10p.m. the wind veered to WNW and NW in a squall. The sails were blown away like paper. We were then off Turnberry and Ailsa Craig heading WNW and had signalled for a pilot. Land was a few miles to leeward. I called the men to the cabin and explained the situation. I read from the bible and we said a prayer. We could do no more then, but later given the chance, we had to try the best to save ourselves. The ship was driven onto the rocks at Dunure and brokeup. All but one poor sailor was saved, due to the bravery of the men of Dunure."



The Dunure fishermen had managed to save all but Henrie Jansen who was swept away by a giant wave in the darkness. The wooden Valkyrian was smashed to smithereens and just about all that was left was her bell. The bell remained in the possession of William Munro's descendents until they presented it to the descendants of Captain Maersk Moller in 1985.

Captain Maersk Moller returned to the sea and three years later on 16/12/1896 he bought a British built steamship, the SS Laura, from the DFDS line that operated her on the Faroe Island service.


This stamp was issued on 21 February 1983 when SS Laura still sailed under DFDS colours.


Under Captain Maersk Moller, SS Laura continued on the Copenhagen Faroe Island run with a stop each way at Granton near Edinburgh. This photograph was taken in 1908 a year before she was sold. She was subsequently wrecked on the coast of Iceland in 1910.

Captain Maersk Moller painted a light blue stripe on her funnel with a white star on it. He believed it was his lucky star. In 1904 he founded the "The Steamship Company Svendborg" with his son Arnold Peter Maersk Moller. AP did not always agree with his father and the other board members and eight years later went on to found the "Steamship Company of 1912". This has grown into AP Moller-Maersk which is one of the largest companies in the world. Maersk Line container ships such as the Emma Maersk are some of the largest ships afloat.


This is Arnold Maersk McKinney Moller. He was CEO of the company from 1965 until 1993. He is Captain Peter Maersk Moller's grandson.


In 1985, in exchange for the bell of the Valkyrian he presented Mr William Munro, who is a descendent of Buckie Munro, with a painting of the Valkyrian, which had hung in his office at AP Moller-Maersk for many years.

I wonder if Buckie's pipe was made of walnut!

Lastly, I hope that you, the reader, will now realize why we do not paddle from headland to headland!

References
Ayrshire roots.
Dansk Posthistorisk Selskab.
Faroese Stamps.
AP Moller-Maersk.
Mr William Munro 5/02/2008

20/01/2008

Sea kayaking the four castles of Carrick.

Last week David, Tony and I set off from Turnberry beach on the Firth of Clyde on one of our favourite routes: "The four castles of Carrick".


Out in the bay we enjoyed the fresh cold air as we passed the famous golf links of Turnberry and its hotel.



With a misty Holy Island and Arran as a backdrop, we rockhopped our way round Turnberry Point. We were nearing the first castle on our route, the great maritime castle of Turnberry.


These four Ayrshire strongholds have a bloody past which belies the peace and tranquility of today's Carrick coast of Ayrshire.

We shall find out some more of the past on this sea kayaking journey.

20/01/2008

Brave Buckie and the wreck of the Valkyrian

Last week we stopped off at the Anchorage Bar in Dunure on the Firth of Clyde. While we were enjoying some Guinness I noticed the above faded photograph hanging in a corner. There was no annotation but it aroused my curiosity.


While we were warming ourselves by the pub fire we got talking to one of the locals. It turns out that he lives in the recently restored cottage in the photo above.

He told us that apart from the castle, it is the oldest building in Dunure and dates from 1640. More recently, it was inhabited in the late 19th century by one William "Buckie" Munro, the man in the photo! He was one of 31 fishermen of Dunure who went to the rescue of the Valkyrian a 381 ton Danish barque which was wrecked in hurricane force winds off the coast of Dunure during a frightful storm on the night of 11th December 1883.


They rescued 9 of her 10 crew including her master Peter Maersk Moller (above).

No sooner had the fishermen rescued the Danes than another ship was driven onto the rocks. She was the 32 ton steam paddle tug, Iron Duke, which had come to assist the doomed Valkyrian. Again Buckie and the men of Dunure threw themselves into the breaking seas and succeeded in rescuing five of the Iron Duke's crew. Her master, Captain McBride, was lost leaving a widow and five children.

The Valkyrian's bell was salvaged by Buckie after the storm. It remained in the cottage at 1 Habour View, Dunure for many years before being passed to Buckie's descendants.

20/01/2008

Till a' the seas gang dry

"Till a' the seas gang dry." R. Burns

Leaving Bute we headed for the north tip of Great Cumbrae. The full spring tide of about 3km/hr was ebbing down the channel and the wind had swung round to the north. It was thirsty work what with the pub having closed some time before our arrival on Bute.


We eventually made landfall on the west of Great Cumbrae as sun sank towards the horizon behind an approaching front.


We took another break on the north east of Great Cumbrae before the final crossing to Largs marina. We had a small break as we let the MV Alainn past on her way to Largs


By the time we got back to the slipway at the marina it was nearly dark.


32km is not bad for a short winter day. Pity the pub was closed!

12/01/2008

The dry red rocks of Bute

We worked our way up the east coast of Bute towards Kilchattan Bay. One may obtain a refreshment within the portals of St Blanes Hotel in Kilchattan village. Unfortunately the tide was now against us and the sun was setting in the south west. We knew it would be dark before we returned to Largs, even if we left now. Three thirsty paddlers turned their backs on Kilchattan Bay and paddled for the west coast of Great Cumbrae instead.

12/01/2008

No room at the inn of Rubh an Eun

From Little Cumbrae we paddled across to Glencallum Bay on Bute. It is marked by the lighthouse on Rubha an Eun. There was a settlement with a famous inn here. It served mariners who sought shelter from westerly gales in the bay.

Feeling thirsty after the crossing we were saddened to discover that the inn had closed. Final closing time was in 1800 and all that now remains is a pile of stones. The Glen Callum Inn is therefor the first sea kayaking pub to score a humble zero after a visit from the thirsty seakayakphoto.com staff.

We accept it has a scenic location. Yes, it is accessible from the sea, being situated as it is on a raised beach. We can make allowances for the quadruped bar staff who wore woolly jumpers and had neither English nor the Gaelic. We can even forgive the lack of a roof but what is completely unforgivable is the lack of a decent pint of Guinness.

I repeat nil point.


We paddled on past the lighthouse feeling very thirsty.

12/01/08

Out with the old in with the new.

Crossing from the Little Cumbrae to Bute, we looked back upon the two Little Cumbrae lighthouses. The modern square concrete block just doesn't compare with the beauty of the original which has a green copper dome above its lantern house. Both lights are built on a raised beach which is found on other many other Clyde islands such as Arran and also on the mainland.

12/01/2008