Grimsay boats.

On the morning of 2/6/2008 we were awoken by the "put put" of a single cylinder diesel engine puttering round the turquoise waters of the Monach Islands. When we came up on deck our spirits were raised by the start of a fine day, this was the day we hoped to reach and paddle round the shores of St Kilda but at first we could not see the source of the sound.


Then a lobster boat took shape as she emerged from the burning reflection of the early morning sun. This was no ordinary GRP lobster boat. This was a Grimsay boat. The Grimsay boat is to the Outer Hebrides what the Model T Ford was to the rest of the World. These boats proved to be versatile for both transport and fishing throughout the isles. Since the 1840's it is estimated that over 1000 Grimsay boats were built by the Stewart family until their last full time builder died in 1994.

It was a joy to see this Grimsay boat being handled by Donald Brady from North Uist as he checked his lobster pots on the Monach islands. The Grimsay boats were of wooden clinker construction but with an exceptionally deep and fine keel. This allowed them to handle the Atlantic swell and surf found on the west coast of the Outer Hebrides. Due to the lack of harbours on the west coast, these boats were built in sizes of 10 to 28 feet. This allowed them to slip through tidal channels between the islands to sheltered anchorages on the east coast.

In 1928 the Grimsay yard launched the Morning Star. She was the link between the mainland of North Uist and the isolated community on the Monach Islands. She carried passengers, supplies and the mail. In recent years she had lain in disrepair in a mud berth in a creek of Loch Maddy in North Uist. She was restored and relaunched in 2007 by apprentices working at the Boatshed in Grimsay.

02/06/2008


We had seen other other Grimsay boats in various stages of restoration at Bhaltos when we first arrived on Lewis.

30/05/2008

Little Greve de Lecq, Jersey

The 9th Jersey Sea Kayak symposium starts tomorrow. It is hosted by the Jersey canoe club.


Jersey has a stunning coastline. This beach can only be reached by boat or by some serious coasteering involving climbing, swimming and caving!



23/05/2008

Busy night at Troon

We met last night at 8pm on the Ballast Bank at Troon Harbour on the Firth of Clyde.


Our destination was Lady Isle, a nature reserve to the SW.


Just as we set off the high speed ferry Express left for Larne in Northern Ireland. Her gross weight is 5902 tons and her maximum speed is 41 knots. She passes by Ailsa Craig and on our recent trip there we set off an hour later than we originally intended. This was to make sure she was well past the Craig before we arrived.


Those 4 diesels sure make some smoke as she warms up.


As she left the fishing fleet was returning to Troon. We had seen them scooping huge loads of fish from the waters round Ailsa Craig. I hope they have left enough for the gannets.

There are too many people on this Earth. Maybe we had all better become vegetarians before the food runs out but on the other hand, maybe its already too late.

08/05/2008

The Gulf of Corryvreckan by sea kayak.

The ebb was still running fast through the Corryvreckan and impeding our westward progress so we stopped for a rest below this old cottage on the SE of Scarba...where we took our second luncheon.


The mist was glowering low on the hills as we entered the Corryvreckan against the last of the ebb. A west wind had picked up and it is always a worry what conditions may lie outside. The transit of the Corryvreckan is about 5km so you will not get the whole way through at slack water, not that there is a great deal of slack anyway!


We made steady progress but


...as we passed the site of the great submarine pinnacle of rock, which extends up from deep within the great rock trench of the Gulf, the waters started moving uneasily and with increasing restlessness. It is a grim place and it fills insignificant kayakers with awe.


Then as we approached the western end, the mist began to clear.


Our mood changed as we saw that outside the Gulf the winds were still light....


...and there was only a moderate swell.

Then we were through but did we have a thirst?


10/05/2008

The start of the St Kilda cruise on MV Cuma.

We camped overnight on the islands. The following morning we took a circuitous route involving more arches and caves along the coastline of Loch Roag.


We returned to Bhaltos where we loaded the kayaks on the car for the short drive to Miavaig.


At Miavaig we joined our fellow paddlers and boarded the MV Cuma.

31/05/2008

22.4 km/hr in the Sound of Luing

Leaving Easdale there was not a breath of wind and away from the rocks the swell was just a lazy roll in the ocean.


We were headed down the Sound of Luing with the ebb tide.


Gradually the pace picked up and we fairly whizzed past Belnahua, Fladda (with its lighthouse) and little Ormsa. (Photo Jennifer Wilcox)


At the north end of Lunga the GPS hit 22.4 km/hr and where the tides from the west and the north east of the island converged, there was a very impressive whirlpool about 15m in diameter with a bright green eye


The current only backed off once we were south of the Grey Dogs. (Photo Jennifer Wilcox)


We were soon under the wooded slopes of eastern Scarba and Kilmory Lodge.


In the lee of Scarba all was calm again as the tides died away.


To the south east corner of Scarba from Belnahua is 10 km and we had averaged 12 km/hr. Now, as we turned the corner, we could see the great Gulf of Coryvreckan ahead. We would need to wait till the last of the ebb before we forced a way through.

10/05/2008

Seakayaking the west and north coasts of Scarba

Emerging from the Gulf of Corryvreckan we turned northwards. The west coast of Scarba is a wild place. Photo Jennifer Wilcox.


There is almost nowhere to land.



There is a very high raised beach then a cliff falls precipitously to the swell zone below.


The first landing spot is once you round Rhuba nam Faoileann. There is an ancient settlement on the flatter land above the cliffs.


As you continue round the coast you meet the current from the Grey Dogs tidal race to the north of Scarba.


We stopped at caves for a breather.


But we were quite tired at the end of the day. There are no pubs on Jura but we had brought such essentials of sustenance as cans of Guinness and bottles of Jura and Speyside malts.....

10/05/2008

Red rock at sunset

As the sun sank to the west of Loch Roag on the Isle of Lewis the grey rocks of Lewisian gneisss began to glow red.


Paddling under these great cliffs we basked in the radiated heat that had built up during the day.


The sun finally set on the western horizon, below which our destination, St Kilda, still glowed in the last of the day.

30/05/2008

Loch Roag to Taransay by MV Cuma

The MV Cuma left her berth at Miavaig on Loch Roag at 2pm on Saturday 31st May. She then motored south along the west coast of Lewis and Harris and arrived at Taransay at 6pm.


While the others are still sorting gear, Tony admires the shell sand beach of Riof in Loch Roag.


Leaving Loch Roag we rounded Gallan Head with its outlier Gallan Beag.


Further south we passed Eilean Molach which lies off the wild Mangurstadh coast which is backed by Mealaisbhal (574m).


Approaching the entrance to Loch Resort and the Kyles of Scarp, Murty begins to wonder how he will manage to get this lot of hopefuls round St Kilda!


Arriving at Taransay, Murdani drops anchor while being watched by a fascinated group of onlookers including Andy, Jennifer, Tony and Fiona F.

31/05/2008

Sunset surfing on the Corran Ra spit, Taransay.

Clark and Douglas at the Corran Ra wave. Photo Jennifer Wilcox.

Like many of the smaller Western Hebridean Isles such as Pabbay, the Atlantic swell wraps round both sides of the island of Taransay. Where the swells meet a sand bar is created. You can surf in on a wave then meet another wave coming in the opposite direction. Where they meet... Kapowwww! There was considerable testing of rolls, rescues and dry suits! Andy broke his paddle on a vigourous stern rudder. He made several vigourous attempts at bracing with half a paddle but ultimately enjoyed a taste of salt water. Fortunately he carried splits.


Tony on Corran Ra, Taransay


We surfed till long after sunset....


..... and returned to MV Cuma at 11pm.


Our first day's paddle had covered only 11km at Taransay. However, Tony, Jennifer and I had already covered 11km that morning in Loch Roag.

31/05/2008