End of the day at end of the road, Ardnamurchan

It was a while after rounding Ardnamurchan Point before I felt safe enough to get the camera out again! Jim and I were really impressed with Phil's paddling round the Point, especially considering that he has only been paddling for six months (and most of that time was in a double).


Once we had left the disturbed waters of Ardnamurchan Point, the wind began to drop with the dying sun...


... until there was not a breath left as we paddled between the reefs on the north coast of Ardnamurchan.


Our keels finally kissed the sands of Portuairk again at 21:43 some 10.5 hours after we had launched.


We covered a total of 42km on the water. We packed up leisurely in the darkness and brewed up soup and coffee before leaving for the long drive home at 11pm. We arrived back in Glasgow at 03:30am on the Monday morning.

What a day! This is seakayaking!

10/05/2009

Rounding Ardnamurchan Point at sunset

If we had set off to round Ardnamurchan from Paradise Beach, we would have hit Ardnamurchan Point with a force 4 north wind against the peak flow of a north going spring tide. It would not have been particularly pleasant for Phil. By taking time out for an evening meal in Laorin Bay, the wind had dropped to force three and I reckoned that we would hit Ardnamurchan about 30 minutes after the tide had to to flow south again.

We decided to go for it and avoid that 7km walk from Kilchoan over to where we had left the car on the north of the peninsula! We set off for Ardnamurchan Point, 11km due north across the Sound of Mull.


On the way across the Sound of Mull, we spotted a familiar outline approaching. It was the Pharos, the Northern Lighthouse Board maintenance vessel.


We approached Ardnamurchan as the sun was setting. Muck, Rum, Skye and Eigg lay beyond the point.


Huge swells were coming in towards the point and the sun sank below the "horizon" several times before it finally disappeared. It was an incredible experience to be off the most westerly point of Britain at sunset.


Despite the favourable conditions, it proved to be quite lively round the point, particularly on its north side.

There is now a 20 minute gap in the photographs!

10/05/2009

The lochs and headlands of the north coast of Mull

Our return journey started by rounding Rhuba an Aird on Mull's north coast in perfect sea kayaking conditions.


We the entered Loch a' Chumhainn as we passed Port na Ba.


The Loch extends deep into the heart of Mull through a narrow tidal passage and ends at the planned village of Dervaig. The village has an excellent bunkhouse which would make an ideal refuge if stormbound on this coast. The fishing vessel Eilean Ban, OB998 has a sheltered anchorage near Croig. She is a lobster boat and was built in 2004.


Leaving the shelter of the loch we rounded Quinish Point and crossed Loch Mingarry before entering the delightful shelter of Laorin Bay. We decided to stop for a full cooked evening meal and the consumption of some golden steadying liquid (18 years old!). This was for Phil's benefit as he was not sure if he would make it back round Ardnamurchan Point. This would mean landing at Kilchoan on the south side of Ardnamurchan and a 7km walk back to the car. Not a pleasant prospect for a sea kayaker!


After a very pleasant meal, the spring tide had made its way right over the beach to the grass. This long stop now meant it would be slack water at Ardnamurchan by the time we would get there.

Had the golden steadying liquid had the desired effect....?

10/05/2009

Paradise found, on Mornish, Mull.

From Quinish we paddled SW across the mouth of Loch a' Chumhainn (Loch Cuin) and rounded Rhubha an Aird. The headlands on the north coast of Mull can be quite lively on a spring tide and we were not disappointed. As we explored further, we came across...


...this delightful cove which was hidden among the dark basalt cliffs and reefs of the Mornish coast.


This looked like an excellent spot to partake a second luncheon.


We made our way over white shell sands to the dunes at the back of the beach.


From here, the sea stretched away in shades of aquamarine, turquoise and finally ultramarine to distant Arnamurchan. Beyond the point, the islands of Muck, Rum Eigg and Skye crowded the horizon with soaring ridges. The lighthouse at Arnamurchan looked a long way away.

What a great spot this was to enjoy lunch with like minded friends. We felt we had escaped to Paradise!

10/05/2009

The fossil tree of Quinish, Mull

The rough black basalt rocks of the Quinish peninsula on the north coast of Mull make for a rough landing.


Fortunately we found a south facing cove protected by a reef. However the boulders were not just ankle breaking, they were knee breaking!


Looking south from Dun Ban to Dun Leathan on the shores of Loch Chumain, the red arrow points to the site (NM 40875,56026 ) of the Quinish fossil tree whose great trunk of basalt is lying just below the high water mark. It was discovered in 1984 by Peter MacNab. It is much less known than McCulloch's Fossil tree on Mull's Wilderness coast about which, I have posted previously.


From the top of Dun Ban, a natural defensive position, there was a fantastic view north to the Cuillin of Rum and Skye and Ardnamurchan Point.

10/05/2009

Ardnamurchan to Mull

About 1km to the south of Ardnamurchan we came to the black basalt rocks of the headland of Corrachadh Mor. This is actually the most westerly point of Britain, not Ardnamurchan. However it is possible to drive a car to Ardnamurchan so this lesser point receives the vox pop laudit of being the most westerly point.


Working round the coast of the peninsula we came to the little isle of Eilean nan Seachd Seisrichean at the mouth of the Sound of Mull. The MV Lord of the Isles can be seen entering the Sound on her voyage from Barra to Oban.


We now struck out across the Sound of Mull aiming to land on Mull some 8km distant.


We enjoyed a great crossing with a fair tide, a following wind and helpful swell.


We landed just to the SW of Quinish Point on Mull.


Ardnamurchan lighthouse seemed a very great distance away.

10/05/2009

Kayak Caledonia

My good friends, Tony Page and Gavin Gerrard, are about to embark on a fundraising paddle of at least 800km round northern Scotland: "Kayak Caledonia".


Tony Page.


Gavin Gerrard.

They are raising money for MacMillan Cancer Support and also for Childline.

I wish them a great trip!

:o)