Family Easter Holiday

Not only did I get to hit some major headlands over Easter, I also enjoyed some gentle paddles with my wife Alison. Here she is paddling past the little chapel at Cardoness on the Solway. We had a really great time together.

Isle of Whithorn

On our paddle round the exposed headlands, reefs, wrecks and tides of Burrow Head, Tony and I, like countless seafarers before us, found shelter in the harbour of Isle of Whithorn. The surrounding waters of the Solway Firth and the Irish Sea are cruel mistresses. In January 2000 the Solway Harvester , a scallop boat, went down and all her crew, seven local men, were lost.

I have mentioned the Isle before. It was indeed an isle until a causeway was built in 1790 connecting it to the mainland and enclosing its safe harbour. The houses above are built on this causeway. The harbour served pilgrims from afar who wished to visit the shrine to St Ninian. He founded a Christian church (The White or Shining House: "Whithorn") in approximately AD 397. The White House was situated 6km inland from the Isle. Recent archaeological digs have found evidence of trade with Mediterranean countries dating back to the 4th century AD.



Turning to starboard, our eyes fell upon on the Steam Packet Inn, a potential sea kayaking pub! We felt duty bound to assess whether it came up to the standards required of such an establishment. Being visible from the kayaks was a promising start. We had some reservations on entering by the main door and seeing freshly pressed, white table linen on the tables in the dining room. Turning into the pub, our salty boots sank into a deep carpet. Would the staff welcome two thirsty kayakers in dry suits? We need not have worried! The true test of a sea kayaking pub was passed. The bar maid did not bat an eyelid as she took our order for two pints of Guinness which was offered at two temperatures, including my preferred ice cold.



Regular readers of this blog will appreciate our never ending quest for oases of refreshment such as pubs and ice cream parlours. On this occasion, we were stunned to discover that the Steam Packet Inn also served the local delicacy of Cream of Galloway Ice Cream. Tony and I were delighted to award a 5 star seakayakphoto.com rosette to this esteemed establishment!

The staff of seakayakphoto.com do hope that readers appreciate the hardships that are endured in bringing these reports to their attention.

The wreck of the SV Chile

While paddling round Burrow Head, Tony and I came across the wreck of the iron sailing vessel Chile. She lies at the low water mark at the foot of a defile through the cliffs, which are to the north west of Port Castle Bay.



Her riveted iron plates and winches litter the shore. She was a German vessel, built for the nitrate trade with Chile and was impounded in Liverpool at the outbreak of WW1. Captain Weaver was taking her to Glasgow when she was driven on to the shore by a storm and the powerful tides round Burrow Head. Her great masts towered above the cliffs but the sea was pounding her to pieces. The Captain managed to get the crew safely ashore in the boats then led them to safety up a steep path through the cliffs, known as the Ladies' Steps. They were so grateful that they presented him with a picture of the ship which can still be seen in the Wigtown Bay Sailing Club clubhouse.



The resting place of SV Chile.

Burrow Head

Last Wednesday, Tony and I paddled Burrow Head in south west Scotland.



It juts into the strong tidal streams of the Solway and separates Luce Bay and Wigtown Bay.





We found strong tidal streams, some of the best rock architecture, caves and rockhopping which either of us have found anywhere on Scotland's west coast or the Hebrides. Another plus for the magnificent south west.

Solway sunset.

I am just back from a week down at Fleet Bay on the Solway. We had fabulous weather. By coincidence, Simon Willis has published a podcast on this wonderful area.

The Weatherman.

They don't call me The Weatherman for nothing you know!



Despite all odds, today Tony and I spent our third consecutive paddle completing the last section of the 85km round of the Rhinns of Galloway. It is a remote peninsula washed by the tides of the North Channel that run at up to 5 knots in springs. There are few places to land.



When we arrived at Killantringan Bay there was some pleasant surf which delayed our start as we just had to do several runs! A big dumper carried away one of my splits but Tony recovered it. Unfortunately another dumper got Tony but he rolled up nae bother. Despite being a bit damp, he carried on with no complaints.



We decided to press on...



...but were diverted by another surf beach.



Fortunately all this delay let the spring ebb pick up and it shoved us along at a fair rate. Just as well really, this was a 31km leg. At the north end of the peninsula a force 4 wind was running againt the ebb, what with the swell as well, it was quite a bouncy trip so there are few on the water photos. Even though it was Good Friday we did not see any other sea kayaks or even fishing boats. All we saw were ferries leaving Loch Ryan.

The Rhinns of Galloway; what a location and I doubt many have paddled it. Isn't seakayaking great?

Glorious Galloway #3

Yet another cave on the Rhinns of Galloway.



Dunskey Castle was built in 1510 by Adair of Kilhilt. It fell into the hands of the Blair family but was a ruin by 1684. They built Dunskey House in 1706 as a more comfortable replacvement.



Tony surveys the attraction of the Crown Hotel in Portpatrick. (The building with the red sign.)



End of a perfect day.