Imagine you are at the edge of the sea on a day when it is difficult to say where the land ends and the sea begins and where the sea ends and the sky begins. Sea kayaking lets you explore these and your own boundaries and broadens your horizons. Sea kayaking is the new mountaineering.
Friday, May 23, 2008
Little Greve de Lecq, Jersey
The 9th Jersey Sea Kayak symposium starts tomorrow. It is hosted by the Jersey canoe club.
Jersey has a stunning coastline. This beach can only be reached by boat or by some serious coasteering involving climbing, swimming and caving!
23/05/2008
Thursday, May 22, 2008
Sweet dreams are made of this.
"Sweet dreams are made of this
Who am I to disagree?
Travel the world and the seven seas
Everybody's looking for something"
Eurthymics
Imagine the crackle of the fire over the distant low murmur of the Grey Dogs tidal race. The aromatic smell of well seasoned driftwood mingles with the peaty aroma of a Jura malt whisky. In the distance the embers of the dying sun linger behind distant Ben More on Mull. Slowly darkness encroaches and the cobbles on the beach are lit with the flickering light of the fire. Tales of great seakayaking voyages are exchanged in hushed tones until tiredness brings on silent contemplation.
Sea kayaking dreams are made of this and we found and lived them on Scarba.
Wednesday, May 21, 2008
The Dog's Bollocks
Tuesday, May 20, 2008
A camp by the Dogs.
After unloading the kayaks...
We set up camp and climbed the hill behind the beach where we glimpsed tomorrows destination, the Garvellachs on the horizon.
Looking the other way we caught sight of the Grey Dogs tidal race on full flood. That standing wave is about eight feet high.
The tide fair rips through the gap at over 22km/hr.
Monday, May 19, 2008
Seakayaking the west and north coasts of Scarba
Emerging from the Gulf of Corryvreckan we turned northwards. The west coast of Scarba is a wild place. Photo Jennifer Wilcox.
There is almost nowhere to land.
There is a very high raised beach then a cliff falls precipitously to the swell zone below.
The first landing spot is once you round Rhuba nam Faoileann. There is an ancient settlement on the flatter land above the cliffs.
As you continue round the coast you meet the current from the Grey Dogs tidal race to the north of Scarba.
We stopped at caves for a breather.
But we were quite tired at the end of the day. There are no pubs on Jura but we had brought such essentials of sustenance as cans of Guinness and bottles of Jura and Speyside malts.....
10/05/2008
Sunday, May 18, 2008
The Gulf of Corryvreckan by sea kayak.
The ebb was still running fast through the Corryvreckan and impeding our westward progress so we stopped for a rest below this old cottage on the SE of Scarba...where we took our second luncheon.
The mist was glowering low on the hills as we entered the Corryvreckan against the last of the ebb. A west wind had picked up and it is always a worry what conditions may lie outside. The transit of the Corryvreckan is about 5km so you will not get the whole way through at slack water, not that there is a great deal of slack anyway!
We made steady progress but
...as we passed the site of the great submarine pinnacle of rock, which extends up from deep within the great rock trench of the Gulf, the waters started moving uneasily and with increasing restlessness. It is a grim place and it fills insignificant kayakers with awe.
Then as we approached the western end, the mist began to clear.
Our mood changed as we saw that outside the Gulf the winds were still light....
...and there was only a moderate swell.
Then we were through but did we have a thirst?
10/05/2008
Saturday, May 17, 2008
22.4 km/hr in the Sound of Luing
Leaving Easdale there was not a breath of wind and away from the rocks the swell was just a lazy roll in the ocean.
We were headed down the Sound of Luing with the ebb tide.
Gradually the pace picked up and we fairly whizzed past Belnahua, Fladda (with its lighthouse) and little Ormsa. (Photo Jennifer Wilcox)
At the north end of Lunga the GPS hit 22.4 km/hr and where the tides from the west and the north east of the island converged, there was a very impressive whirlpool about 15m in diameter with a bright green eye
The current only backed off once we were south of the Grey Dogs. (Photo Jennifer Wilcox)
We were soon under the wooded slopes of eastern Scarba and Kilmory Lodge.
In the lee of Scarba all was calm again as the tides died away.
To the south east corner of Scarba from Belnahua is 10 km and we had averaged 12 km/hr. Now, as we turned the corner, we could see the great Gulf of Coryvreckan ahead. We would need to wait till the last of the ebb before we forced a way through.
10/05/2008