An evening alternative to the Abbey on Iona

After an arduous day sea kayaking round Iona and the Ross of Mull we landed on Iona just as the MV Loch Buie was making her last crossing of the evening. The last of the many day trippers were waiting on the jetty to return to the mainland. The crowded isle of the day was about to return to the peace of the evening and its past. (With the useful addition of our good selves of course.)

It had been a long hot day and we were in need of some sustenance as there was still to be a final eight long Scotch kilometers until our keels would be hauled up on the white sand of our chosen camp for the night. We spotted an unprepossessing building at the top of the slip. Closer inspection revealed it to be the Martyr's Bay Restaurant and Bar.... the only bar on the island no less.

Despite the undoubted attractions of the nearby Abbey, which is one of Scotland's most historic and venerated sites, we felt a duty, to you the reader, to further investigate and report upon this outwardly unassuming hostelry, situated as it is on this most Holy of the Isles.


Leaving a sandy trail on the plush carpet, we made our way to a well upholstered seating area with a fine view over the Sound of Iona. We ordered some pints of Guinness to assist our perusal of the menu. On hearing of our desire to dine, the friendly staff asked if we would prefer to move to the formal dining room. We declined as we wished to cause no loss of appetite to other diners. We were accompanied by a certain odour which was evidence of several days' activity in the great outdoors.

Despite an extensive selection of freshly caught seafood, we chose steaks. After all, we had already enjoyed a luncheon of freshly caught and cooked mackerel on a deserted white sand beach. An excellent meal deserved to be washed down with some more refreshments which were served at just the right temperature. My only minor criticism was that a rare steak was served medium. This however, is something that is quite common in Scotland. Scots as a race like to make sure that their food is quite dead before they eat it. Some (though not this restuarant) even do the same with vegetables.

Boswell and Johnson also visited Iona on their tour of the Hebrides. Although Boswell did not drink alcohol he quoted Johnson "....No, Sir; there is nothing which has yet been contrived by man, by which so much happiness is produced as by a good tavern or inn." I think Johnson would have been well pleased with this one.


After a farewell to the attentive staff, we made our way back to the boats and our day on the water continued. The Martyr's Bay Restaurant and Bar proved to be a truly excellent sea kayaking pub, with first class food as a bonus! It is highly recommended.

Safety Notice. Sea kayaking is already a risky activity. Alcohol and water do not mix. This bar offered a wide selection of hot and cold non alcoholic beverages.

19/07/2007

Expedition planning

We are so lucky here in the west coast of Scotland, we have fantastic sea kayaking right on our doorstep. We do not have to embark on lengthy expeditions to get our fix of paddling. However, the staff of seakayakphoto.com do go on little mini expeditions of a week to 10 days or so. The depths of winter seems to be a good time to make plans with like minded friends.

I have been blessed to paddle with some of the nicest people you could meet anywhere. Here are two of them, Tony and David. As you can see there is a commonality of purpose, indeed single mindedness, in the pursuit of the expedition's objectives.

19/07/2007

Guiding light of Turnberry

Turnberry lighthouse has guided generations of travellers on this rocky part of the Ayrshire coastline at Maidens. It was completed in 1873 by David and Thomas Stevenson. It flashes a white light every 15 seconds.

Holy Island and Arran's rocky ridges

The cold, clear air at the weekend gave a great view of Holy Island and Arran's rocky ridges. This view across the Firth of Clyde was taken from just above Dunure. The low winter sun gave a lovely light to the underside of the clouds. Holy Island is 25km from Dunure and Arran's highest summit, Goatfell (874m), is 37km distant.

Watch out for an article about Holy Island and Arran in Issue 5 of Ocean Paddler magazine.

11/11/2007

I can see for miles and miles

"The Eiffel tower and the Taj Mahal are mine to see on clear days
You thought that I would need a crystal ball to see right through the haze"
The Who

Winter arrived in Scotland today with a blast of cold, clear Arctic air. The distant coast of Ireland could be seen from the Ayrshire coast, behind the great bulk of Ailsa Craig, which rises like a sentinel at the entrance to the Firth of Clyde.

Ailsa Craig is also known as Paddy's Milestone as it is half way between Belfast and Glasgow. This was a boat journey taken by many Irish people who sought work in Scotland following the potato famine.

It is the plug of a huge volcano that was active about 500 million years ago. The ash and lava of its cone have been eroded away by glaciers during successive Ice Ages.

In 1772 Thomas Pennant visited Ailsa Craig during a spell of calm, hot weather while he was en route from Brodick to Campbeltown. He wrote "and what is wonderful, throstles (thrushes) exerted the same melody in this scene of horror as they do in the groves of Hertfordshire".

Every four seconds a flash of white light, quite insignificant against the sunset, betrayed the position of the Ailsa lighthouse. It was built in 1886 by Thomas and David A Stevenson.

Ardeer duck

As the watery sun set over the Garnock estuary, a flight of wigeon flew high overhead. Below, hidden amongst the trees, is the ICI Nobel division factory at Ardeer which was founded by the Swede Alfred Nobel (of prize fame) in 1873. It manufactures nitroglycerin and dynamite....


On September the 8th 2007 there was a huge explosion and fire. It was started by three local boys, two 14 year olds and a 10 year old. They have been reported to the children's panel. Maybe their pocket money will be stopped for a week.

All was quiet as we left in the twilight.

03/11/2007

Harnessing the power of the wind.

The City of Adelaide was not the only wind powered craft to be found high and dry at Irvine. Not far from her decaying timbers lies another wooden sailing vessel. She is the Falcon, a converted 18' Blackwater sloop.

Instead of a mast she has a 16 foot twin bladed turbine mounted to a helicopter tail rotor hub. This transmitted the power to a large 3 bladed propeller. She was built as a post doctoral project run from 1983 to 1986 by Dr Neil Bose of the University of Glasgow.

She was able to sail in all directions to the wind, including directly into the wind. In 15 knots of wind she could do about 5 knots. I could just about keep up with her for a short (very) distance.


The Falcon's turbine is unlikely to turn again. In contrast, the rotors of the Busby Muir wind farm to the north of Irvine were turning steadily. It was commissioned in 2004 and its twelve towers each stand 100m high. It has a capacity of 24MW and is shortly to have 3 additional turbines added.

In the future great wind powered ships may again sail the seas. I wonder if they will have sails or turbines?