A day at the races, continued...

After we slipped through the gap to the north end of Lunga we turned north past the islets of Fiola Meadhonhach and Rubha Fiola. The spring ebb tide was running strongly south but we found ourselves in a counter eddy which propelled us northwards to Sgeir nan Gabhar. This is the sight that awaited us.... a harmless little tide rip.


The little loop on the map at the top end of Sgeir nan Gabhar must look so insignificant to you, the dear reader. However, to Tony and I it represents a mountain we could not climb, a torrent of defeat, the ebb of our dignity and a flood of retreat.

We left the shelter of the eddy and immediately were in the full force of the rip. Another big eddy was coming up the west side of Rhubha Fiola and curling round to join the main stream that was running to the SE. It prevented us finding an inside route and a wall of water pushed us further out. I was paddling as hard as I could, my paddles were flashing in the sunlight, my lungs were bursting, I seemed to be making progress. Tony came alongside and as I glanced towards him I saw we had made no forward progress at all! Teeth gritted, I started panting as I tried to increase my stoke rate. "I'm not going to last much longer!" The sparkling waves were speeding past faster than I had ever paddled before and my chest was bursting. A fulmar swept effortlessly into view, its teasing wing tip clipping the wave that was just about to pile into me and sap my last reserve. I could resist the streaming tide no longer. "Tony I've had it!"

I broke off and relief and spray swept over me as I bounced downstream at high speed through the wave chain. It seemed like an eternity of effort but the GPS later revealed that our premature ejection from the race had occured after a mere two minutes.


We now had a problem. We had set up camp on Lunga's west coast and now the powerful tides of the Firth of Lorn had cut us off. Our only chance was to try and return through the gap we had been playing in. Unfortunately the tide had dropped and a steep wall of rushing water lay ahead. Tony managed to get through at his second attempt. I made three unsuccessful attempts but was by now completely exhausted. We tried to set up my tow rope for Tony to pull me through but there was nowhere for him to stand far enough upstream and he lost leverage just as I approached the fastest section of the chute. Beaten back by the force of nature, I retired to lick my wounds and look for my split paddle that had come off in the struggle with the tow line.

A few minutes later Tony appeared on foot, over the rocks and kindly paddled my boat speedily up the chute. That's what younger, fitter friends are for!


We returned to our camp on Lunga's west coast. The golden eagle was circling overhead. It was great to rest our weary bones round the camp fire and slake our substantial thirst as the sun went down behind the mountains of Mull.

What would the morning hold? Before then, the eagle's hungry chick squawked all night.

25/08/2007

A day at the races

After a pleasant second luncheon, we paddled round the SW corner of Lunga. The tide and swell made for great paddling conditions.


We continued up the west coast of Lunga looking for the entrance to the channel between the maze of islands at its north end.


There was about a metre diffence in level in the channel and the ebb tide was now running strongly.


So we stopped for a play.

25/08/2007

Peak of the Eagles, Lunga

After passing through the Grey Dogs tidal race, which lies to the south of Lunga, the skies cleared. We took a break in the magnificent bay of Camas a'Mhor-Fhir which nestles under Bidean na h-Iolaire or peak of the eagles.


What a great place to go sea kayaking!

25/08/2007

Clauchland's peninsula, Arran

Clauchlands Point, Arran.


After we left Holy Island, we headed north across Lamlash bay to Clauchlands Point on Arran. This is the view from the point back towards Holy Island and the distant Ayrshire coast on the other side of the Firth of Clyde.


This is the final headland before the return to Brodick. It is known as Corriegills Point. The rain clouds are gathering over the hills on the west side of Glen Rosa. Cir Mhor is the peak on the right. Brodick Castle can just be seen in the trees at the right of the picture.

It started to rain as I was waiting for the ferry back to the mainland. (Thirsty) Tony went off to the Co-op shop and came back with two ice cold cans of Guinness. We had come a long way from our last refreshment at the Kildonnan Hotel and the drought on Holy Island. The dark brew was like nectar as it slid down our throats and the soft summer rain dripped from our noses. MV Caledonian Isles' approaching horn sounded in the gathering mist and signalled the end of our Arran adventure.

17/08/2007

East Holy Island: a geologist's paradise.

Paddling north we passed old red sandstone cliffs capped by tertiary lava floes. Nimble wild goats were cropping grass right at the edge of the cliff.


Further north we looked back to the south. The rock here was a lighter and younger sandstone.


Arriving at the north end of Holy Island, the rocky granite ridges of Arran came into view.

17/08/2007

The Outer Light of Holy Island: Scotland's Forbidden Island.

The Outer Light of Holy Island was built by David A and Charles Stevenson in 1905. Its white light flashes twice every 20 seconds and was a familiar night time sight to me some 50 years ago when I grew up in Ayrshire, on the other side of the Firth of Clyde. However, its apparent constancy is but a transient flash compared to the ancient rocks upon which it is built.


This view of the lighthouse is one the monks at the Samye Ling Buddhist community on the island would prefer pelagic sea kayakers not to see. They post NO LANDING signs and expect you to to report to them at one landing spot on the north of the island so that you can be instructed on how to behave on your visit.

Tony and I were fortunate to meet no monks and went on our way undisturbed. We paddled on below the eastern cliffs of Holy Island, which bear witness to the geological forces that created the Earth. The old red sandstone at the base of the cliffs is 400 million years old and was formed when Holy Island was part of the Old Red continent, which was then situated on the equator. In comparison our own species is a mere 200,000 years old yet we think we own the Earth. We pondered on the nature of it all. We wondered why the monks seem so possessive of this wonderful island, which was a Holy Island to Christians for 1200 years before they bought it. What is their intention or motivation for wishing to close the island? What is the nature of their attachment to the land? Are they aware that whatever their motive they are not above the Scottish Land Reform Act?

Whatever, Tony and I concluded that the way to enlightenment through sea kayaking was for us closer to the truth than the way of any organised religion that seeks ownership and control. The ancient rocks of Holy Island will outlast mankind and then all of human enlightenment will be less substantive than a single grain of old red sandstone.

We paddled on and for the rest of our trip observed Scotland's Forbidden Island of Holy Island only from the sanctuary of the sea. This blog is the only (transient) evidence of our visit and passing.

17/08/2007

Solway sea fog and sunshine

We were right on the edge of Solway sea fog and sunshine on Saturday.


We headed west from Fleet Bay towards Ravenshall point.


There was an amazing orange glow on the horizon.


We decided to turn back at Ravenshall arch as the tide was getting low and we did not fancy a 3km carry back over the Solway sands!


We returned via Murray's Isles where we stopped for lunch and to compare notes about the Rockpool Menai 18 and the Valley Nordkapp LV.

06/10/2007

Scottish Access problem, is Holy Island closed?

NO LANDING

Following my post of yesterday about our pleasant visit to Holy Island Chris has replied as follows with details of a very different experience:

Hi Douglas,

interesting, as always, to read of your adventures-especially Holy Island as Barbara and I had a very disappointing experience there a few weeks ago while padding with two friends.

We had opted to camp (very, very discretely) at the north tip of the island - arriving quite late. Being aware of the island and it's community, we were continually careful to do nothing to offend anyone. One of our party even collected four bags of rubbish from our vicinity to take away and dispose of.

We were aware that several young people - probably attending one of the commercial courses held at the monastry - had seen us and so were not surprised to be visited by one of the monks who spoke to one of our group. Unfortunately, I was busy with our meal and so didn't hear the exchange until the monk had left.

Assuming this had been of the nature of asking where we had come from, where we were going, had we had a good day etc I was dismayed to discover that my friend was quite upset at the aggressive and unpleasant manner in which he had been informed that we were unwelcome and, had it still been light, we would have been ordered off the island then and there.

Initially saddened at this contradiction to my assumed understanding of the monk's Buddhist philosophy; my thoughts turned to our rights to actually be there and to wild camp and whether we had inadvertently failed to honour the responsibilities that go with that right.

I could find no reason to support this.

We had kept well clear to avoid intrusion into the community there; had tried to leave the place better than we had found it; had refrained from building a fire and had behaved with respect for the island, it's community and it's wildlife.

Upon arriving home, I immediately emailed the monastry via their commercial email address and put our case explaining our disappointment and wondering whether, had we been prepared to pay the B&B fee to stay, we would have been treated in a similar way.

I also questioned the legality of their stand outlawing our right to camp and especially their signs banning access to the area below the high water mark.

I have had no reply to my email - again disappointing as I would dearly have liked to try and explain our philosophy of peaceful co-existance to them.

Long response - I apologise, but thought I'd share this experience on Holy Island as a thankfully rare example and so different to many other, welcoming people we've met on our sea-kayaking adventures.

Be warned if you choose to camp on Holy Island - we were also "threatened" with the possibility of wild ponies attacking us!

Thanks for an interesting and informative Blog.

Kind regards

Chris

My reply to Chris is as follows:

Chris thanks very much for this reply.

When Tony and I visited and saw the NO LANDING sign our first comment was "this lot haven't heard of the Land Reform Act." We landed just about 100m along the coast from the sign and as we saw no monks and enjoyed unrestricted access to the hill, we relaxed.

However, your experience has rekindled our worst fears.

I assume that you were not camping in the immediate area of the buildings or on enclosed cultivated land and so under the land reform act you have a legal right to wild camp providing you do so in small numbers and do not stay for more than three nights.

The religious beliefs of the landowners have nothing to do with this right under Scottish law.

I would strongly suggest that you report the aggressive and illegal behaviour of this so called monk to both the local authority:

"Local authority powers: Local authorities have been given new powers within the Act to assert access rights."

and to Scottish Natural Heritage

and to your MSP

and to the Scottish Canoe Association

I have a good mind to head for Holy Island on our next camping trip.

I also believe that landowners now have a responsibility about allowing threatening and dangerous animals to roam free. What I can say is that Tony and I wandered through a very laid back and peaceful herd of Eriskay ponies who had clearly reached a higher state of Buddhist consciousness than this particular monk!

Chris go for your rights! I will help in any way I can.

Douglas

The current owners of Holy Island are the Ropka Trust
email office@holyisland.org

17/08/2007

Holy Island of two faiths, Arran

From the SW tip of Holy Island we looked across Lamlash Bay to Lamlash village backed by the distant hills of Arran.


When we arrived at the Holy Island Inner Lighthouse the "No landing closed retreat" notice did not bode well for our visit to the island. It has a rich tradition of peaceful meditation dating from the the time of the hermit monk St Molais in the sixth century to the Samye Ling monks of today.


However, the closed area was just the immediate vicinity of the lighthouse buildings.


Good paths, followed by a mild scramble, allowed exploration to the highpoint of the island. If you are looking for the Inn of the Sixth Happiness you will not find it on Holy Island. Those seeking that sort of enlightenment would be better to head for Lamlash.

We enjoyed our visit to this stunningly beautiful and peaceful island.

NB please see the comments for a very different experience of visiting Holy Island.

17/08/2007

Stacks of coves on the Solway

Near the caves there are sea stacks and rocky channels.


Further along the coast, towards Fleet Bay, there are islands and sandy coves.


We stopped here for lunch and to compare notes about the Rockpool Menai 18 and the Valley Nordkapp RM before the ebb tide left us stranded.

29/09/2007

Solway caves

A Solway cave.


Leaving Little Ross Sound we turned eastwards round the base of Fox Craig. We rested in an eddy out of the main flow of the ebb tide. Looking back we caught a final sight of the Little Ross lighthouse between the skerries at the base of the cliff.


The coastline between here and Fleet Bay has lots of opportunities for rockhopping but is often unapproachable due to strong tides and swell. We were lucky we had a north east wind. The Nordkapp RM is a fantastic boat with all the performance of its composite sibling. I have written a review in the current issue of Ocean Paddler issue 3 and will post it here once the next issue is published.


This beautiful cave is just a little further east than Dove cave.

29/09/2007

A nine metre tide in Little Ross Sound

This last weekend saw 9.1m spring tides in the Solway so Tony and I drove down to Dhoon shore on Kirkcudbright Bay in the Solway. The Valley Nordkapp RM was dwarfed by the Rockpool Menai 18.


The ebb tide began to pick up as we approached Little Ross Island. Tony enjoyed the Menai 18.


We ferry glided across to the island for a spot of lunch. The Little Ross light was built by Alan Stevenson in 1843. The light flashes white every 5 seconds. In 1960 there were two keepers on the island and one murdered the other. (Thanks to Andy for the link.)


After lunch we swapped boats and went for a play in the tide race in Little Ross Sound.

29/09/2007

Holy Island of the fifth precept.

The sharp thinkers among you might wonder what on Earth thirsty kayakers like Tony and I got up to on the Holy Island of the fifth precept....


We ascended to a higher plane.

Fair wind for crossing Whiting Bay.

After leaving Dippen Head we rounded Largybeg Point.


We then had the magnificent prospect of Whiting Bay backed by distant Goatfell and, nearer to hand, the dark outline of our next destination, Holy Island. We were headed for the inner lighthouse on Holy Island. It was built in 1877 by David and Thomas Stevenson. With a force 4 wind and the tide behind us our speed was usually between 8 and 10 km/hr. Perfect paddling conditions!

Dippen Head, Arran

Leaving Kildonan we headed NE to Dippen Head. A raised beach runs round almost all of Arran.


At Dippen Head Tertiary basalt cliffs are broken by a waterfall and clothed by a beautiful, mixed deciduous woodland. Peregrine falcons swoop on their prey from ledges hidden by the tops of the trees. There is an ancient fort at Dippen. The centuries have eroded it so that it is all but indistinguishable from the surrounding rocks.

17/08/07

Ocean Paddler magazine #3

Oh look! We're in this one!

Ocean Paddler Issue 3 will soon arrive....

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