Landfall at Claggain Bay, Islay

Travelling down the east coast of Islay, we left Proaig Bay and distant McArthur's Head then paddled SSE to the next headland, Carraig Mhor.


On rounding Carraig Mhor the character of the Islay landscape changed dramatically. Gentle wooded slopes hung over beaches of dazzling white sand.


After we passed the next low headland, Rhuba Liath, we were paddling amongst skerries and more white sand beaches.


On reaching Claggain Bay the shadows were lengthening so we decided to stop for the evening and enjoy the view up the Sound of Jura.

12/07/2008

Big skies above Proaig Bay, Islay

Rounding McArthur's head we were sheltered from the northerly winds as we entered the broad sweep of Proaig Bay.


Shadows of clouds chased one another across the empty landscape of the east coast of Islay.

In the distance we cot sight of the abandoned cottages of Proaig.


We made landfall on this delightful little spit of land.


The main cottage and its byre have recently been re-roofed and the cottage is open. It is a very spacious bothy but the pigeons can get in and everything is covered in their shit. The bed has been covered with a polythene sheet but we were not enticed to stay.


At the back of the bothy these ancient cottage walls still stand against the elements. Their empty and roofless rooms are filled only with nettles and fleeting memories of their past.

We pressed on to the south as the shadows lengthened.

12/07/2008

McArthur's Head lighthouse and the mouth of the Sound of Islay

We launched again into the Sound of Islay. This is the view back to the north from whence we had come. The distinctive mounds of the Paps of Jura are lost in the evening clouds above Jura on the right.


We were now paddling SE below the cliffs of Beinn na Caillich towards the distant McArthur's Head lighthouse.


Looking back up the Sound of Islay, past Mair and Billy, to distant Port Askaig.


We approached McArthur's Head using a variety of paddling techniques.


On a lively following sea, the sun sparkled against the lengthening shadows of the dark cliffs behind.


McArthur's Head lighthouse was built in 1861 by David and Thomas Stevenson. It was powered by acetylene then propane gas and the last keeper left in 1969 when the light was automated. In 2005 it was converted to a solar powered electric lamp. It flashes twice every 10 seconds, white then red. While manned, the lighthouse was serviced by boat from Port Askaig due to the remote nature of this wild part of Islay making land access very difficult.

12/07/2008

Of an Islay bothy, fishing rods and buoyancy aids.

After breaking out out of the tide we followed the coast and came across this wonderful bothy under scudding white clouds. Its remoteness has protected it from the vandalism that has afflicted many mainland bothies.


The view from the bothy door extended to the distant Mull of Kintyre.


This well equipped bothy has airbeds and a pump. It also has mask, snorkel and flippers and a fishing rod! On this occasion it was only 17:30 so we decided to press on further before making camp. We promised we would return! Both the estate and the MBA are due thanks for this wonderful place.


As we launched, David had dropped his rod into the sea just offshore. Fortunately he was wearing his dry suit and recovered it. It took several attempts as he forgot to remove his buoyancy aid. This must have made a deep impression as over the next four days Tony and I found several BA's, just like David's, on many beaches we stopped at. Usually just after David had paddled on!

12/07/2008

Tragedy in the Sound of Islay

The BBC Scotland News has just reported a tragic accident in the Sound of Islay. Yesterday (Saturday) afternoon, a sea angler was swept away by strong spring tide currents in the Sound of Islay. The RNLI Lifeboat from Port Askaig and a helicopter were in action within minutes and the man was rescued. He was airlifted to hospital in Oban but very sadly he died later.

My heart goes out to his bereaved relatives.

It just emphasises the power of the sea. We had enjoyed kayaking in these strong currents just a few days before on our holiday. Now someone else on holiday, in the same place, has lost their life.

We cut our holiday short and stayed on the sheltered side of the island due to the wind conditions, which made kayaking difficult. I am glad we did. We are fortunate, we will be able to return to Islay.

The Sound of Islay

After disembarking from the ferry at Port Askaig, we wasted no time, in getting onto the water. We did not even stay to sample the ales of the Port Askaig hotel, whose beer garden conveniently overlooks this little jetty. It has been a licensed premises since the 16th century.

With the hills of Jura just a short distance away over the narrows, at 3 hours past the turn of the tide, the south going ebb was running strongly down the Sound of Islay. Even though it was neap tides, the current was sweeping past the mouth of the harbour and it was quite a sight to see a 3,000 ton ferry break out into the current. The combination of tide, wind and forecast made our decision to go south with the flow an easy one. We were on the water by 16:00 hours.


Although the spring rate in mid sound is 5 knots, we hit 10 knots in the current just outside the harbour. The wooded slopes of Dunlossit estate made a gentle introduction to the wild and remote east coast of Islay beyond. The south going ebb in the Sound of Islay starts at +05:15 HW Dover and the North going flood starts at -00:50 HW Dover. The spring rate is 5 knots.


We then made our way into mid channel to take maximum advantage of wind and tide. We averaged 12km/hour (6 knots) down the upper part of the Sound of Islay.


The tide slowed as we approached the entrance of the sound with Am Fraoch Eilean on the left and McArthur's Head on Islay straight ahead. The distant Kintyre peninsula can just be seen on the horizon. We now turned west and made for Islay's lonely eastern shores.


This map shows the GPS track of our route over the 4 days of our visit.

12/07/2008

Over the sea to the fair isle of Islay

As we crossed the Sound of Jura, towards the Sound of Islay, a force 5 wind was blowing from the north west. The air was very clear and to the north the Paps of Jura heaved above the horizon. However, the wind meant that we would need to plan our sea kayaking adventure carefully. Initial plans to paddle against the tide and head north towards the island of Colonsay were put to one side.


Mair and Billy had met David and myself at Kennacraig, on the west coast of the Mull of Kintyre. We had promised ourselves a trip to Islay for too long, now it was a reality! We were to meet Tony on Islay at Port Askaig. He had already enjoyed a family holiday for a week on the island.


The MV Hebridean Isles docked right on time as we were putting the final bags into the kayaks.


We used trolleys to wheel them onto the car deck. The kayaks travel for £10 return on any Caledonian Macbrayne crossing. Note the strap restraining the kayaks for a windy crossing. Normally they do not bother.


Our excitement mounted as we approached the tiny Port Askaig. It lies at the foot of steep cliffs. Rather I should say lay at the foot of steep cliffs. The port is midway through a 13 million pound redevelopment that has carved a new approach and waiting area from the cliffs (destroying two of the villages few houses) and constructed a new roll on roll off jetty.

Also noticeable is the Islay Severn class lifeboat Helmut Schroder of Dunlossit II. This has been on station since 1997. On 18 December 1991, the previous Thames class boat, Helmut Schroder of Dunlossit, was involved in the dramatic of nearly 50 souls from the Russian fish factory vessel Kartli.


Port Askaig is one of Islay's two ferry terminals. The other is on the south of the island at Port Ellen. Port Askaig is also the terminal for the MV Eilean Dhiura which crosses 0.9km of the Sound of Isla to Feolin on Jura.

We had arrived on Islay!

12/07/2008

Rockpool Isel sea kayak

I spotted this lovely new Rockpool Isel (pron. eesel) in Kari-tek's Geoff Turner's back garden. It is a very low volume design based on the Alaw hull with about 2" trimmed from the seam line and an Alaw Bach deck on top.


Detail construction is up to Mike Webb's usual high standard. All fittings and bulkhead design are as in the rest of the Rockpool range. Production versions are likely to be called only Isel.


With 2" off the seam line this boat will not have much windage. Just the sort of boat I like, if I can squeeze into it!

Sea Kayaking through the gates of Hell!

The Cuma reported a force 4 to 5 SW wind on the far side of the Hirta / Soay gap.


As we went down the west side of Stac Soay, the gap between it and Stac Biorach looked like the gates of Hell!


Fortunately we did not need to pass through to Hades as a tunnel appeared leading right through to the other side of Stac Soay.

02/06/2008

Unfortunately there will now be a short intermission. The staff of seakayakphoto come are headed for the fair isle of Islay. We have heard tales of many shore side distilleries, with magical names like Bruichladdich, Bowmore, Laphroaig, Lagavulin, Ardbeg, Caol Ila and Bunnahabhain.

We may be gone for some time.......

The approach to Soay

As arranged, Cuma made rendezvous in Glen Bay, Hirta. Murty and Murdani conferred.


Then the Cuma made off for the Hirta Soay gap as a probe!


As she returned, Soay had gathered a wreath of cloud about her upper slopes and a freshening wind was blasting through the gap.

02/06/2008

Purty sea kayaks and the great tunnel of Geodha na h-Airdhe, St Kilda

Geodha na h-Airdhe is a 140m long tunnel right through the great headland of Gob na h-Airdhe on the north coast of Hirta in the St Kilda archipelago.

Alan comes through in his Nordkapp LV. I think this boat is one of the purtiest sea kayaks around!


Fiona F and Murty come through as the MV Cuma makes an appearance behind.


The scale of this arch is difficult to describe, in truth it is a tunnel!


Yup the Nordkapp LV sure is a purty boat. Pity the same can not be said of all those who paddle one! Photo Jennifer Wilcox.


With Boreray as a backdrop to the NE, Lena and Jennifer paddle across the great sweep of Glen Bay where we had arranged to rendezvous with the Cuma.

The Cuma's purpose will be revealed tomorrow...

02/06/2008

Sea Kayaking St Kilda: Na Cleitean Stac

Leaving Bradastac, we passed under further huge cliffs below Glacan Mor. We saw another stack ahead, Na Cleitean stac, and in the distance the headland of Gob na h-Airde with a cloud capped Soay behind.


Na Cleitean stac with kayakers behind. Photo Jennifer Wilcox.


As we approached the headland of Gob na h-Airde we realized we would not be paddling round it, there was a tunnel right through it!


Several people have emailed about my source of the names of the geological features that are not on the OS 1:50,000 map. I have used the Mathieson map from 1928.

Sea Kayaking St Kilda: the north face of Conachair and Bradastac

As we made our way anticlockwise round the north coast of Hirta we were completely overawed by the scale and wildness of this place.

Bradastac lies at the foot of the highest sea cliffs in Britain. Anywhere else it would be a giant amongst stacks. Here it was dwarfed by Conachair just as we were dwarfed by it.


We made our way round Bradastac as the swell slowly rose then fell round its red rocks.


Fiona F with Bradastac and Mina Stac in the distance.


Bradastac, with Fiona F, Alan and Clark below the stunning cliffs of Conachair, the highest mountain on Hirta.

02/06/2008