The poetry of distant mountains' names.

Leaving the Cairns of Coll, we paddled down the NW coast of Coll. As we did so a cold SE wind got up as a front moved in across the sky. We knew that this would bring rain and force 5 winds but that it would pass through within 24 hours. We had come to this area in search of the pod of orcas which yachting friends has recently spotted here. We left without seeing any but sharp eyed Jennifer drew our attention to two breaching minke whales. Fantastic stuff!


We found this bay, which was protected by an offshore island. Magicseaweed.com had predicted a surf height of 4.5' for the next day, so it would make for an easier launch than some of the bigger surf beaches.


We set up camp with the distant mountains of Barra and South Uist in the Outer Hebrides breaking an otherwise empty Atlantic horizon.


A disadvantage of such a sheltered spot was that the entire local midge population joined our evening meal in what proved to be a feeding frenzy, until we donned midge hoods and jackets. Fortunately our midge jackets still allow you to enjoy a cup of coffee in relative peace.


We then set up a little heart warming.


Fortunately as the breeze got up, the midge attack lessened and we were able to emerge into the night from our jackets like giant insects casting off a chrysalis. The aurelian paddlers of Coll were now masters of the night again and not the pesky Culicoides impunctatus.


As we enjoyed our Bowmore and Glenfiddich, the sun slowly went down behind the hazy blue mountains of South Uist. These lay 80km distant, over the now dark Sea of the Hebrides. From the left, we saw Beinn Ruigh Choinnich 276m, Triuirebheinn 357m, Stulabhal 374m, Beinn Mhor 620m, Beinn Corradail 527m and Hecla 606m. We pondered the poetry of their names as the pink clouds slowly faded to ruby red and their summits disappeared into the night.

12/06/2009

The Cairns of Coll

We made landfall at Suil Ghorm, one of the islets in the Cairns of Coll ,which lie isolated by the tide races to the north of Coll.


It was a relief to stop paddling in the shelter of the Cairns. It was just after springs and the tide was stongest just to the east of the Cairns. We came across lots of swirlies and boils and our final approach was complicated by strong eddies and counter eddies.


Within the Cairns grey seals bask on every available rock ledge.


These two otters were completely oblivious to our passage as they devoured a recently caught fish.


We took a welcome break on these stunning white sands. I went for a swim in crystal clear water but did not last long as the icy water gripped my muscles.


To warm up, I climbed to the top of the islet. As there were no sheep or rabbits, the summit was covered in a blaze of wild flowers which smelled so fragrant after the salty air of the crossing.


In the distance, the Suil Ghorm light house stands guard over the channel to Rum.

12/06/2009

Sea kayaking Ardnamurchan to the Cairns of Coll.

We drove over the summit of the Ardnamurchan peninsula 4.5 hours after leaving Glasgow. The Cuillin of Rum and the Sgurr of Eigg boldly broke the blue vault of the sky.


We loaded our gear at Portuairk as quickly as we could...


...as the tide was ebbing fast.


Soon we were on the water with Muck and Rum to the north.


As we approached Ardnamurchan we met two sea kayakers coming the other way. We were delighted to meet with our regular paddling buddies, Gavin and Tony, who were nearing the end of their Kayak Caledonia expedition. They had covered 770km but amazingly we had been the first kayakers they had spoken to!


After a very pleasant half hour catching up on each others news, we went our separate ways. Tony and Gavin headed for a 2 hour snooze on the beach to the left of the lighthouse. They then went on to complete a 60km day from the Sound of Mull to Loch Moidart. We turned our bows to the distant Cairns of Coll.


A banana is a great pick me up on a 17km crossing.


In mid channel we were surrounded by a blizzard of Manx shearwaters who wheeled round us with wingtips flashing past our bows.


Jim looks SW to the tops of the distant Treshnish Isles that were "hull down" below the horizon.


P&H have very kindly lent me a new Cetus to try. It is beautifully finished with a glitter blue deck. Jennifer blagged first go. I will post a review once I have tried it in a variety of conditions. You can rest assured that it will be unbiased as I have 4 very nice sea kayaks in my garage and so did not "need" another to go paddling!

I expected it to be bigger than my beloved Quest but it is a much more delicately proportioned kayak. I like the look of it a great deal.

12/06/2009

The basking sharks of Coll and Tiree

Just back from a 120km trip out to Coll and Tiree.


We went fishing...


duh,duh,duh, duh, duh...


...but quite quickly we packed our rods away.


A Cetus is quite a long sea kayak...


...and it took some time...


for these little fellows to pass beneath us.

13/06/2009

14/06/2009

Days like these...

This yacht was visiting the Solway from the Isle of Man. Early the following morning, she hoisted her jib, then her main and lifted her anchor all in one smooth motion then slipped away on a broad reach to the Isle of Man.


It is always a pleasure to see a ship shape, well handled yacht when nowadays the majority stay in the marina or only venture out with the motor.


I drifted for some time on the ebb tide...


...but all too soon I had to break the glassy calm and my paddles drove me against the gathering current between Ardwall Island and the mainland.


As I entered Fleet Bay, the last of the sun slid towards the dark granite slopes of the Galloway Hills.


The sea turned to gold and ebony as the last gasp of the day slipped away with the ebb tide. Even the shrill pipping of the oyster catchers fell silent. I paddled home in the silence and the night gathered round me.

What would tomorrow bring?

31/05/2009 pm

Kayak Caledonia progress report #11

Day 20, 10th June:

17:20 Tony: "We are just through the Corran Narrows on Loch Linnhe. We had to battle against the wind the whole way down the loch. Loch Ness and the Caledonian canal were really lovely. We had a tailwind most of the way and surfed down Loch Ness at 12km/hour.

Tomorrow we hope to get through the Sound of Mull, then round Ardnamurchan on Friday and finish at Morar on Sunday!"

End of another Solway Day

As I was leaving Meggerland Point, I caught a glimpse of light at the back of a geo called rumblekirn.


I could not resist exploring and I discovered a small cave with turquoise waters and a blow hole at the back.


I now made for the Sw corner of Barlocco Isle.


Rounding Barlocco, I now turned towards Ardwall Island as the sun dipped towards the horizon.


As I neared Ardwall I came across this beautiful yacht lying peacefully at anchor, her bow towards the ebb.

31/05/2009 pm

A Solway sunset swim

After my visit to the stack and caves, I returned to the little beach below Meggerland Point. As I my way through the skerries, I floated over cobbles, which shimmered in the ripples of the crystal clear water.


I couldn't resist a second swim in this beautiful spot, as the sun sank gently to the west.

31/05/2009 pm

Kayak Caledonia progress report #10

Day 16, 6th June 24km

21:30 Tony: "We are in Rockfield at the mouth of the Moray Firth. We didn't launch till 2:30 by which time the sea and the wind had settled. We used the morning to wash and dry all our stuff in the campsite laundry. The Fourth Element Thermocline stuff has proved really good. It was a long grey crossing direct to Tarbart Ness from Brora. The wind had dropped to force three but it was still very cold.

Once round the Ness, into the Moray Firth, we could see snow on the Cairngorms. Its a very rocky coast but we landed at the jetty in Rockfield. A man was sitting in his garden and suggested we camp on his lawn! We are just back from visiting the pub in Portmahomack. We didn't stay long as a bunch of young locals seemed intent on a swally race. We thought discretion was best and made our exit.

Tomorrow we hope to get round Chanonry point and camp at Fortrose."

The caves and stacks of Meggerland Point

I was pretty hot and bothered after climbing all over Castle Haven so I went for a refreshing swim in a tiny cove below Meggerland Point. I then continued east below the heughs (Galloway for cliffs). Rounding a corner I nearly missed a cave in the shadows cast by the setting sun.


I am glad I didn't because it is one of the best caves in these parts. There was some deep gurgling going on in the back of the cave...


...which was punctuated by a steady drip from somewhere in the darkness above me.


Continuing eastwards I threaded my way behind Meikle Pinnacle, an isolated stack.


I then came across Dove cave which can only be entered at HW springs. I just love the old man, a mimetolith which stands watch over the entrance.


The ebb was now well established and I was 8km from home so...


...I retraced my route in the shade of Meikle Pinnacle before emerging into the light of the setting sun.

31/09/2009 pm