Introduction.
I was in Glasgow getting a steroid injection into my right shoulder in clinic F then having a pint of blood drained from my left arm in clinic P when I heard the news that a parcel from Australia was waiting for me at my summer home on the Solway. Despite living 50m from the shore for 7 months of the year I have not been very active recently. I last managed a kayak camping trip in May 2017 and have had to give up windsurfing. Since January 2017 I have lost 27kg not to mention over 40 pints of blood and 1.5" in height, so I needed a bit of a boost to get me back on the water!Well the parcel was, as expected, from Mark Sundin of Expedition Kayaks in Australia. They have taken over Flat Earth Kayak Sails following the sad and untimely death of Mick MacRobb who created Flat Earth. I was privileged to have tested prototypes of each of Mick's previous sails: the original all dacron, the dacron with mylar edges, the Code Zero and finally the Trade Wind.
Each of these designs allowed a lot of twist in the leach which meant the sails would automatically spill winds in the gusts. This made them extremely user friendly, especially for newcomers to paddle sailing. I have no doubt that the international success of Flat Earth Kayak Sails was built on the sails' degree of inbuilt twist.
This photo shows the twist in an early all Dacron Flat Earth sail. However, one disadvantage of twist is that paddling downwind in a loaded boat, when the windspeed is about 3 times or greater than the boat speed, the leach twists open permanently. This spills wind that might otherwise drive the boat forward. Also when going upwind, the loose leech tends to "motor" when going upwind.
Even the most recent Trade Wind sail has considerable twist as you can see in this staged photo. The bow is directly downwind and there is about 90 degrees difference between the angle of the head of the sail and the boom. If there was zero twist, the head of the sail and the boom would be parallel. Each time I suggested to Mick that he should consider tightening the leach, just a little, he said that he was very reluctant to do that as he did not want to turn Flat Earth sails into "experts only" sails. Anyone who ever had any dealings with Mick would know that he was an egalitarian to the core of his soul. He wanted the Flat Earth Kayak Sail to be accessible to any reasonably competent sea kayaker. He would often give sails away to clubs or individuals who he knew could not afford them. So I was delighted to see that the Footloose sail's logo proudly proclaimed "Designed by Mick MacRobb". In truth many people have influenced the production of this new sail and modest as always, Mick was the always the first to acknowledge the input of others into his previous designs.
Back in May 2016 Tony and I were crossing from Rum to Eigg in the Scottish Hebrides. We were on a broad reach in a fresh wind and were fully loaded with camping gear. I found the degree of twist just a little frustrating as our sails were constantly spilling wind. So when I got back, I tried another tack with Mick.
I suggested that perhaps the time had come for Flat Earth to create an additional new sail for for more advanced users, which would be sold alongside the current Trade Wind sail. It could have a tighter leech, perhaps with an extra batten. I got a reply, almost immediately. In it Mick said he had been feeling a bit tired of late but he had already had talks about this with his mate Rob Mercer (a renowned Australian sea kayaker). They were already developing a design based on a sail Rob had had made for him some years before, by by another sailmaker, for some big expeditions and would I mind keeping it quiet until he (Mick) had some decent prototypes made? Unfortunately (and only a few weeks later) Mick circulated his friends with the news that his "bit tired" was actually a serious illness (from which he died only a few months later).
This new Footloose sail is undoubtedly the sail Mick was referring to and you can read what Rob Mercer says about its history and development here. Rob's expedition sail was a two batten, three panel sail that had been made for him by another Australian, Andrew Eddy, who sent Mick drawings of the original. Mick and Rob worked together tweaking the details. After Mick's death, Flat Earth's new sail maker, Neil Tasker, has done further work to put Mick's prototype into production. Rob has already used it with great success on a 2018 crossing of the Bass Straight. Well after that test, my few words will be pretty insignificant... but here goes!
Design and Construction.
As you can see the Footloose '80 sail has two battens and a relatively low aspect. It is constructed with modern lightweight sail cloth laminates and uses a semi transparent bottom panel. Quality of construction is still as high as on previous Flat Earth sails. It has clearly been put together with care and craftsmanship.You can see how it differs from the higher aspect older Trade Wind '80, which is overlaid in this photo and...
...underlaid in this photo. The Footloose sail is supplied with mainsheet, uphaul/forestay and enough non stretch line to have two side stays and two back stays.
Mast and fittings.
The quality fitting kit is up to Flat Earth's usual excellent standard and even comes with two extra surface deck fittings in case your existing deck fittings locations are not suitable for the fore stay/uphaul pulley or the main sheet deck pulley.
The supplied mast is slightly shorter than the one I have been using with my Trade Wind 80 sail. So it can obstruct the view of the horizon.
Here the Footloose '80 is set on my longer Trade Wind '80 mast.
( I was also experimenting by tinkering with the boom height, lowering it to loosen the foot of the sail and raising it to tighten the foot of the sail, both actions achieved with a sharp knock of the paddle!)
My only very, very minor criticism about the fittings is that the plastic boom fitting for the sheet is perhaps a little over engineered.
Paddle sailing the Footloose.
So far I have only paddled the Flat Earth Footloose sail for three short paddles totalling 27km (the first was only a day after a steroid injection into my shoulder, which has a torn rotator cuff). The wind in each case was a steady 12 knots from the south and I used the sail on an unladen P&H Aries 155. I tried the sail on all points of sailing and I must say I liked it a very great deal. It has a very positive pull to it and......upwind it paddle sails pretty close to 45 degrees from the wind. In a southerly wind and a north going tide I even managed to beat SE round the outside of the islands with the sail up the whole way (see map above).
Bearing off onto a beam reach then...
...a broad reach followed by a run...
...the sail continues to pull strongly and as you ease the sheet out...
...the top batten does not angle forward of the mast spilling wind which happens with the Trade Wind. This is especially noticeable when the boat slows down as you drop off a wave and the pressure of the following wind builds up. In the new Footloose, the leech remains tight and the increased wind pressure helps you pick up speed to catch the next wave. Note how my speed and distance covered increases on the broad reach on my trip back from the islands, as soon as I broke free of the lee of the islands, my speed increased by a factor of 3 as the sail helped me catch small swells. (The arrows are all the same time apart.) With the tight leech of the Footloose sail, I caught far more waves than I usually do with the Trade Wind sail, even allowing for my injured shoulder!
The sail gybes very predictably but there a more noticeable "whumph" as the sail fills on the new side. This also applies to launching the sail and it is probably easier to launch the sail on a broad reach so that the sail can spill wind as it is raised, before sheeting in. It is more difficult to spill wind when launching on a run.
As Rob says on the Flat Earth web site, there is more heeling moment as a gust hits, both across the wind...
...and upwind with the Footloose sail than with the Trade Wind sail, Experienced paddle sailors will love this direct, powerful feel though newcomers to paddle sailing would do better to look to the Trade Wind sail, which continues in production. I can't wait until I am fit enough to get the Footloose sail out on a camping expedition between the Hebridean Isles!
Thanks Douglas, interesting review. I'm guessing the photos are from a drone, but was it following you or flown by another paddler?
ReplyDeleteExcellent write-up as usual Douglas. The excessive 'twist' when the sail is at 90 degrees going downwind could be counteracted by a downhaul (kicking strap in dinghy parlance). I have a code zero flat earth sail and have several ideas about sails on sea kayaks - I'll send you a message on the UK sea kayak guidebook
ReplyDeleteGreetings Jules, sorry for delay in replying I am recovering after being unwell. Yes both you and Berend (see below) have highlighted how some control lines could extend the range of the Flat Earth sail. A kicking strap from low down on the mast to the boom would stop the boom lifting and loosening the leach (thus spilling wind). However, a kicking strap would mean you could not depower the sail downwind by releasing the sheet and letting the boom rotate forward of the mast. You might need to do this if you became seriously overpowered. I know you have some other great ideas on side stays and look forward to hearing more. Best wishes, Douglas :)
DeleteDear Douglas,
ReplyDeleteI write to you in respond to your Footlose testing, though my subject is different but I didn’t figure out where else to post it. I am sorry. Nevertheless I am hoping you would like to give a good advice.
I have a question about up wind paddle sailing with my Flat Earth kayak sail (Code Zero, 0.8 sq meter). I have noticed pointing up wind to about 50/45 degrees, that my FEKS sometimes tends to lose power. And then all of a sudden it catches on again. Even in very strong gusts of wind, when I expect the worst heeling, sometimes nothing happens while the sail still seems to catch wind. As if almost all of the strong wind is being spilled somehow. Especially if my kayak has little speed to start with. This is a good safety feature, but a bit annoying when you pick up paddlespeed and the sail is not kicking in. But then again, it occasionally catches on for some reason to make my kayak run off like a wild stallion.
Ofcourse I watch my sail closely to look for any bubbling of the luff and I have hauled in the sheet as tight as reasonably possible. I also have let the mast fall back just a little –easing the uphaul, just for the heck of it -, use a traveller to pull the boom vertically straight down to flatten the sail a bit which is good for close reaching. And I have paddled hard or slow. It all makes little difference, except ofcourse when paddling hard, giving me the speed of paddling hard only. All these comparisons are made on pretty much the same close reaching courses upwind. It’s not that I am dissatisfied, it’s just something that keeps me wondering.
Recently I have read a little bit about trimming a mainsail what would be impossible with a FEKS for good reason. However, I understand two things are very imported when paddlesailing up wind. The curving of the sail directly behind the mast (the curvature should be pretty steep up and really dead on the luff) and reducing the twist so that the leech is stretched more open to let the wind pass freely. All this seems to be impossible since there are no lines to thinker with the trimming. And yes, I wouldn’t want to get tangled up in these extra lines, let’s keep things simple. But I have thought about this and wonder if slightly lifting the sprit (the long batten in the middle of the sail) would create a bit more curvature on the luff and therefore create extra lift behind the sail while pointing up wind. Just a thin rope with a fixed length hooked on to the mast would do the trick. And secondly I wonder if placing one or two extra short battens perpendicular to the leech would open up the rear end a bit more to let the wind rush out and stop it from motoring as well. The battens should be very flexible so that they can adept to other sailing courses with different shapes of the mainsail.
What are your thoughts on these two ideas? Hope to hear from you. If you have no thoughts on this at all, it’s okay too.
Sincerely,
Berend Schilder, the Netherlands
DeleteGreetings Berend, it is very good to hear from you. You have described limitations of the upwind performance of the Tradewind sail. I find it best not to sheet in too tightly going upwind and to keep the sail pulling well. When you sheet in tight the roach will still be twisted off anyway almost all the time thus loosing power. I am originally from a dinghy/cat racing background and so am well used to sailing with multiple control lines. Several American kayak sailing rigs have multiple controls some even with lee boards but they tend to have larger sail area and are very much heavier than the Flat Earth rig and are more suited to more sheltered waters. The Flat Earth rigs were developed to be light and suitable for open crossings on exposed waters. Like you I have no desire to complicate the rig so I have accepted its compromises because I know I can use it with confidence on open crossings between the Hebridean isles. If you get a chance, you should try the new footloose Flat Earth sail. It is much tighter leached and does not have the degree of ttwist of the Tradewind and previous sails. I am not saying it will greatly improve upwind performance but it converts gusts into drive especially downwind in a loaded boat. You do have to be a bit more careful in gusty wind especially upwind but it sounds like you have plenty paddle sailing experience to make the most of that. I would be interested to hear how you get on with the roach line on the batten. Two mini leach battens were in one of the prototypes I tested for the Older Code Zero sail but they did not seem to have much effect and Mick dropped them from the production version. Best wishes, Douglas :o)
Hello Douglas,
ReplyDeleteI am contacting you not just for your remarkable sailing experience, but also your shoulder lore!! I'd very much welcome your views on a dilemma I face over the next 4 weeks!!
I am hoping to do an extended trip in Ireland ( 2+ months) with laden boat in a few weeks time. 5 weeks ago I tweaked my shoulder, and inflamed tendons on an old ( bankart repair)shoulder injury- now mending OK but I am looking at options to support the ageing body . I have used pacific v sails ( imported from NZ 20 years ago,and remade several times since!) on my nordkapps, and could never quite justify the money for a flat earth although they look a step change forward. I've done a bit of sailing including wayfarer cruising off the west coast ( round skye/ over the minch/ down to mingalay etc so can use sails in various conditions) I had not intended to use a sail on my kayak trip but am seriously thinking that it might reduce wear and possible inflamation on my shoulder.
What would your take be?
Your footloose review is very helpful- like everything else you've ever written!I like the compactness of the footloose but would v much welcome your thoughts. If you or anyone else! prefer to do so direct, my email is davids3904@yahoo.co.uk
David Simpson
Hi David, good to hear from you. We need to look after our shoulders! I hope you have a great trip. Like you I bought a Pacific Action sail but now seldom use it as it is really too big and heavy and does not handle higher winds very well. It is also not that great anywhere but a broad reach to a run. The Flat Earth sails can take the sting out of a long day and leave you some reserve energy for any unpredicted eventuality. The two you should consider are the 0.8 Sqm Tradewind and Footloose sails. With your experience you should be fine with the Footloose though it does not auto spill gusts as freely as the Tradewind. I think Karitek have both in stock at the moment. The Karitek rigging system differs from the Australian but suits beginners. At your level of experience I would suggest the Australian method and there are plenty photos on my blog. Don’t underestimate the strain of getting your boat on and off the car roof. Human shoulders are at risk of damage when lifting heavy weights above your head and even if you keep your shoulder muscles in shape with training this will have zero effect on your tendons and ligaments, which deteriorate with age, increasingly so after 40! I don’t lift boats onto the roof anymore I use sliding roof racks like the Karitek or LARS. These allow you to secure the kayak to J bars when the slider is down the side of the car. The slider stops the boat waggling about as you then push it up on the guide rail which makes the lift easier and safer. Also you do not need to lift the kayak so high to get it over the lip of the J bar. Depending on my route I use a heavy duty trolly by KCS to move the loaded boat. If the landing is not suitable for a trolley I will empty the boat using IKEA bags before I attempt to move it. Lastly if I get twinges from my shoulder I do not ignore them. I will take a land day and go for a walk to give my shoulder a rest. It would be worth taking an anti inflammatory drug like ibuprofen just to nip any twinge in the bud (as long as it does not upset your stomach). Have a great trip :o) Douglas
ReplyDeleteThanks so much for your detailed and wise advice. Im 61 and v much follow the practice you suggest. That's why I've spent a lot on a lighter boat. I am guessing that you have not had any problems with the flat earth sail stowed on deck in bouncy water. V much hope you recover quickly and hope to meet you properly in due course best wishes David Simpson
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