Ben More sunset

From the shores of the island of Ulva, the setting sun casts a red glow on the now cold basalt rocks of Ben More on Mull. Once it spouted red molten magma from deep within the Earth and was the largest volcano in Europe. Today its lava fields cover 840 square kilometres and are up to 1.8 kilometres thick. The islands round Loch na Keal bear testament to this fiery past and are an irresistable magnet to any sea kayaker.

First glimpse of the Wilderness

Loch na Keal nearly bisects the mountainous isle of Mull. The B8073 to the hamlet of Ulva Ferry hugs its north coast. After a long climb you crest a ridge and are confronted with your first view of the Wilderness. 50 million years ago the lavas from the great Ben More volcano were finally halted by the sea here at the edge of the Ardmeanach peninsula. The cliffs of the Wilderness now tumble steeply for 370 metres to the shores of Loch na Keal below. Today the Wilderness is home only to goats, sea eagles and pelagic sea kayakers. Our first glimpse of the Wilderness set our hearts beating in anticipation of an outstanding paddle. We were not to be disappointed.

The Wilderness of Mull

The Wilderness of Mull lies at the foot of a giant series of lava floes from the extinct Mull volcano. There is almost no easy access on foot due to the near vertical lava cliffs at the top of the slope. The whole is composed of alternate layers of lava and volcanic ash. Where the sea has eroded its base there are fossil remains of organisms that were overcome by the eruptions.

Teeming waters below the Wilderness of Mull

Below the sea stack of Caisteal Sloc nam Ban on the Wilderness coast of Mull the waters were crystal clear. They were teeming with sand-eels and sprats. Great flotillas of immature shearwaters were learning to fish and shoals of mackerel would bring the smaller fish to the surface so that the water boiled. We also feasted on mackerel, eating them even before rigor mortis set in! Delicious!

Magical Mull cave light

Once we ducked our heads and entered this cave on the Wilderness of Mull, we entered another world. The water was a transluscent and luminous green. Dripping water from the roof splashed and tinkled on the surface of the water and there was a deep gurgling from the dark recesses of the cave. Reluctantly we left before the tide rose and trapped us.

Caves on the Wilderness of Mull

There are many caves on the Wilderness coast of Mull. This is one of the smallest and we had to duck down to enter on a rising spring tide!

Moonset over Little Colonsay and Lunga

After a long day, when we paddled from 9am to 10pm, we prepared a meal on a rocky knoll on the island of Inch Kenneth in Loch na Keal on the remote west coast of Mull. Long after sunset there was still a red glow in the north western sky as a dusky crescent moon sank below the island of Little Colonsay at the mouth of the loch.