Is it worth paddle sailing up wind and up tide across the Lynn of Lorn?

It was now time to leave the north of Shuna. The flood tide had already reached the boats.

We managed to get the sails up for a short paddle across the north end of the island but...

...as soon as we turned south down the Sound of Shuna we faced a head wind and the north going tide.

The mooring for the Shuna farm work boats is on the east of Shuna.

As we progressed down the Sound of Shuna there were some bursts of sunlight and...

...to the south the Sgeir Buidhe lighthouse and Eilean Dubh stood out against the glowing sky above the Lynn of Lorn.

From the south end of Shuna it is 1.75km across the north end of the Lynn of Lorn to Eilean nan Caorach (sheep island) which lies off the NE tip of Lismore. The offshore wind was gusting quite badly so Mike and Ian decided to paddle and I stuck my sail up. Although I started on a beam reach, our route took us across a tide that was running at 2 knots. Even maintaining a high ferry angle I ended up paddle sailing close hauled.

This is on Eilean nan Caorach looking back at Shuna.  First of all, note how far down tide (to the left) Ian and Mike have been carried, we set off from the south end of Shuna which is out of picture to the right. Secondly, many people say it is not worth paddle sailing close hauled as the kayak will not plane to windward. However, I beg to differ. I paddle sailed the crossing and arrived 4 minutes and 35 seconds before Ian and Mike arrived by paddling alone.


As you can see, they were in the tide a lot longer and got carried well down tide.

This seal was so busy looking at me he did not notice Ian's approach. It disappeared with a huge splash as...

...Ian passed and finally arrived on Sheep Island. I rest my case m'lud!

Island dwellings in Loch Linnhe.

 From Castle Stalker we enjoyed a brisk paddle sail across the Sound of Shuna in the offshore wind.

There are some modern conifer plantations on Shuna which being limestone is much more fertile than many of the west coast islands.

Shuna Castle is barely visible in the trees. It was built about the end of the 16th century by the Stewarts of Appin and used for about 200 years.

Shuna farmhouse which was built in the 1740's was a much more comfortable residence than the old castle.

 We were circumnavigating Shuna clockwise* and made the most...

*see comment from Frank below!

 ...of the SE wind until...

...we fell into the lee of the island which was a wild...

 ...place with rivulets running down the mossy rocks into the sea.

Near the north of the island we found a sheltered spot out of the SE wind for first luncheon. From here we has a grandstand view right up Loch Linnhe surrounded by the mountains of Ardgour, Appin and and Lochaber. Needless to say the view was enhanced by a dram of Mikes Jura Superstition.

Right in the centre of the view lay little Eilean Balnagowan which we had visited the day before. You can see the new "bothy" which has been built by the island's new owners.

Castle Stalker and the quest for the Holy Grails of Port Appin.

On the fourth day of our winter trip we drove from Ballachuilish to Port Appin further down Loch Linnhe. We got parked right next to the beach access but in summer parking here is not easy.  Port Appin has been the ferry port to the island of Lismore for at least 250 years. The Lismore is the current passenger ferry.

We launched beside the Pier House Hotel. Their Grand Seafood platter for two sells for and eye and mouth watering £85. We decided to dine alfresco rather than order the Holy Grail of sea food platters.

This old boat on the shore has seen better days.

Port Appin was under thick grey cloud but both to the north and south there was a hint of winter  sunshine.

The south going ebb had already started so we decided to paddle north to explore while there was still water,

Our first destination was the Sgeir Bhuidhe light. This is a modern recreation of the original late 19th century light. In 2001 it was planned to replace the old light with a modern rectangular box. Locals were upset that their local Holy Grail of lighthouses would be no more and the old light was painted to look like Mr Blobby in protest. Sense prevailed and this modern light is a passable copy of the...

 ...original, which certainly looks a lot better than a rectangular box. The original light's lantern house is now a museum in the village.

 A little SE breeze got up which helped with the paddle against the ebb tide which was now poring out of ...

...Loch Laich. Standing on an islet in the mouth of the Loch, Castle Stalker enjoyed a near impregnable position.The Gaelic name was Caisteal na Stalcaire. The Gaelic language is very economical with words and so each can have several meanings. Stalcaire means:

A One that hobbles or walks awkwardly.
B Dresser of hooks.
C Starch.
D Blockhead.
E Hunter, fowler, deer-stalker.
F Gazer, starer.
G Arrow-maker.
H Pacing-horse.
I  Bully.
J Robust fellow.
K None of the above.

So take your pick!

Castle Stalker was built by the Stewarts of Appin in the 1440s.

Over the years it changed hands with the Campbells several times and on one occasion changed ownership as a result of a bet. Perhaps Castle Blockhead is the right interpretation!

It was restored by a descendant of the Stewarts between 1965 and 1975. It achieved more recent fame as "Castle Aargh" in Monty Python and the Holy Grail.

"Here may be found the last words of Joseph of Arimathea:"

"'He who is valiant and pure of spirit..may find the Holy Grail.in the Castle of Aaargh."'

The Stalker logo is made from an old fisherman's anchor and chain.

Ian and I could not resist photographing it from a variety of angles.

We made our way up steep slippy rocks to...

...the grass below the castle's two entrance doors.

This is the view from the castle. In 1745 it was held by the Campbells and besieged by the Stewarts. The attackers could not get their cannon close enough  and the cannon balls bounced...

 ...harmlessly off the walls. We made our way up to the main entrance to the castle living accommodation. There is a well worn coat of arms above the door. Whether this was weather worn or scrubbed away by successive owners is not known.

 This is not the original door but is well in keeping with the castle.

 The ground floor door gives access to three cellars and a prison cell.

 Not having found the Holy Grail, we decided to set off from...

...Castle Stalker and continue our voyage...

 ...the Sound of Shuna to Shuna Island.

More sea eagles than seakayakers on our four day winter adventure!

We came around a corner and something caught our eye in the sky. It was a bloody great birdy thing. It didn't go far, a couple of flaps of its wing and it landed on a grassy bank just ahead of us. 

From its perch it kept a beady eye on us but it was completely unfazed by our passing, just 50m away. We had stopped paddling and just let the kayak sails move us serenely along. Even seals don't get upset when we approach under sail alone.

Anyway the birdie proved to be an immature sea eagle. Last summer two mature sea eagles were regularly spotted in this area. Rather sadly there was no sign of the peregrine falcons which used to inhabit this spot.and which I saw on all of my previous visits. Mind you the big birdies don't get it all their own way. Two black backed gulls swooped down and chased it off its perch then started mobbing it in the air.

Wildlife sighting tally:

Other sea kayakers: 0 Sea eagles: 1

Tunnel vision and the consumption of alcohol when winter sea kayaking in Loch Sunart.

The east wind whistled straight down Loch Sunart from the icy slopes...

 ...of Garbh Bheinn at its head.

 To the west gathering snow clouds darkened the sky but...

 ...the view to the east continued to clear and patches of blue sky appeared and bursts of sunlight dappled the hillsides.

 Mike spotted a rare beach of sand so it was undoubtedly time for second luncheon...]

...which we enjoyed  on the rocks below the ancient oak woods of Sunart, which come right down to the shore.

We poured some excellent Jura, which went down extremely well. However this blog has been spammed recently by "a responsible seakayaker" who is very unhappy that I am setting a bad example by portraying drinking while sea kayaking. Here is this morning's example:

"I am a responsible sea kayaker and I strongly object to your repeated glorification of the consumption of alcohol on your sea kayaking trips. Have you no insight into the bad example you are setting to impressionable sea kayakers whose lives are endangered by your irresponsibility? You should be ashamed of yourself."

Just in case there are any impressionable sea kayakers out there who feel they are unduly influenced by our luncheon habits (we never imbibe with breakfast by the way), let me just say that:

"Alcohol can impair your judgement, affect your coordination, make you more liable to exposure and if you are male, make you impotent."

 I trust any impressionable readers have now  been well and truly warned of the evils and dangers of drink. Anyway back to a pleasant luncheon and a dram of Jura...

...Cheers "responsible seakayaker", slàinte mhòr!

Please see below for comments and also Ian's post on his blog with comments also.

 It was now time to return to the waiting boats as...

 ...yet more snow showers gathered ...

...round the loch but at least the...

...wind slowly dropped away.

As the clouds gathered, the only clear sky was to the east through the "tunnel" of Glen Tarbert. The sun was shining on Sgorr nam Fiannaidh 967m some 35 km distant. Its sunlit slopes acted as a beacon and guided us safely home, through the darkening skies and snow showers of Loch Sunart.

After saying goodbye to Simon and Liz, Ian Mike and I drove back to Corran where the ferry was crossing Loch Linnhe from the Lochaber side.

After a short ferry crossing and drive we arrived back at the Ballachuilish Hotel for a hot bath, an excellent meal and several pints of sports recovery drinks.

At only 20 kilometres this was a short trip but we felt we had made the most of an unpromising winter day and had enjoyed great company.