Sundown at Imachar Point.

We cooked our dinner on the shore at Imachar Point as there were hordes of midges up by the grass where we had pitched the tents. We gathered a little wood for a fire below the high water mark.

After cleaning the dinner things...

...we had a seat and...

 ...enjoyed the view south over Machrie Bay. The distant headland of Drumadoon Point is 12km away as the crow flies and we had started the day some 20 km further on beyond the point.

 It was now time to savour the efforts of our day and enjoy a swally. Some 15 year old malt whisky was carefully poured.

Nothing quite beats sitting round a camp fire with good friends, enjoying a drink, swapping tales of sea kayaking trips and...

 ...watching the sun going down.

One last check of the boats ( we are not of the school that insists on carrying the kayaks up and laying them down on the grass beside our tents!) and...

...it was time to get the baked potatoes on.

Baked potatoes and butter are a real gourmet treat when wild camping. We savoured them in ...

...the twilight that lasted long after the sun went down.Unfortunately the weather forecast promised F4-5 gusting 6 NE winds with heavy rain showers for the next day.  The rain actually arrived during the night...

The priapic Druid of Machrie.

On the north side of Machrie Bay the road runs on a raised beach with a line of wave cut cliffs and caves behind. Since the last Ice Age, Scotland has been rising as a result of post glacial rebound. There are multiple raised beaches round Scottish coast and many coastal road builders have taken advantage of their level ground.

Under the slopes of   Beinn Bharrain  lies...

 ....Auchencar farm and in one of its field stands the  Druid Stone. There are many standing stones on Arran but this one is the tallest. There is a second, similar but fallen stone alongside. We spotted the priapic Druid a long way off. It was clearly situated to impress those who like us approached Machrie from the sea.

 As we passed the mouth of Glen Iorsa, the NE wind funnelled down the glen spreading cats paws over the sea.

 The boathouse and Dougarie Lodge lie on the north bank of the Iorsa Water which flows into sea here. Dougarie is a hunting shooting and fishing estate and was built in 1865 as a secondary summerhouse for the Duke of Hamilton whose main summer house was Brodick Castle on the east coast of Arran.

 It was now evening and the coastal mixed deciduous woodland was filled with birdsong.

 At long Last we approached our destination for the night...

...Imachar Point.

 After 35km of paddling, mostly into a headwind, it was a relief to get the boats up the cobble beach...

...and get the tents up on the raised beach.

Best Buns on the Beach at Machrie Bay.

As we approached the great sweep of Machrie Bay on Arran's west coast we became...

 ...more exposed to the NE wind.

It was a case of engaging low gear and paddling slowly but...

 ...steadily.

 

Even the black guillemots were getting blown about but the gloomy grey clouds at the start of day had also blown away.
 

At long last the sands of...

  ...Machrie Bay came in sight and it was time for a well earned rest.

 

There used to be good wild camping here but recent coastal erosion has carried away the coastal strip of grass and the scrub behind is too rough.

A little further on we came across what used to be the Machrie Bay Golf Course clubhouse. We noticed tables and chairs outside and Ian kindly volunteered to investigate. A quick nip across the golf course and we arrived at...

...what is now an emporium selling the best buns on the beach.

We settled down with large mugs of coffee and outstanding home made carrot cake. The cafe is open from 10 till 4 every day and do breakfast rolls in the morning. We will definitely return.

We enjoyed our refreshments so much that the incoming tide was well up to the boats by the time we got back. (Note the offshore wind!)

Tourists but no spiders, Kings, saints or Picts in these caves.

 

As we turned Drumadoon Point on Arran's west coast, we got a fine view of The Doon's rock columns. It is part of a huge basalt sill which was....

 ...used as a large Iron Age hill fort. It certainly had a commanding position with fine views...

of the Kilbrannan Sound from its large flat summit.

 North of here the shallow sea was clear as crystal and...

 ...no doubt the lobster fishing was good.

 A large series of caves and arches announced our arrival at...

 ...The King's Cave. It is one of many throughout Scotland and Ireland where King Robert the Bruce was apparently inspired to continue the struggle against the English after watching the repeated efforts of a spider trying to spin a web. However, the historical veracity of the spider is somewhat dubious as it was probably a literary invention of the novelist Sir Walter Scott. There is no easy landing at the King's cave so any fugitive would have time to escape on foot from any pursuers in boats. The caves have been used for shelter long before Robert the Bruce hid here. There are early Christian and Pictish drawings on the cave walls. When we passed there were only some bank holiday tourists who had braved the rough walk in.

Twenty six dogs' bollocks but only twelve holes at Blackwaterfoot.

 From Blackwaterfoot harbour we paddled to the Blackwaterfoot dog exercise area.

No sooner had we landed than we were investigated  by a number of hungry canines. After his experience with the "hoody" crow of Whiting Bay, Mike had learned his lesson and firmly battened down his hatches.

We found some very comfortable seats on a basalt dyke. At one point I counted 26 dogs at various points along the beach, quite a few of the dogs put their noses in our blue IKEA bags sniffing for food but we managed to prepare a quick...

...luncheon during a doggy lull. Though no sooner had we prepared our wraps of humous and cheese than slavering hounds were eyeing us up waiting to be fed.

 It was rather pleasant sitting on the rocks . The NE wind was straight offshore and we were well sheltered by the sand dunes of the...

...beautiful Shiskine Golf Course, which is squeezed between the Doon and the sea. It is one of very few golf courses in the World which has 12 holes.

I took this photo from the top of The Doon in April 2011. It shows our destination for the day, Imachar Point in the distance. It was still 13km away straight into the teeth of the wind.

Refreshed by our rest, we set off across the calm clear and shallow sea towards Drumadoon Point. We did not expect calm once round the point.

PS for the bollock count,  I am assuming that half the dogs were male and that they were intact.

Preaching to the converted in Blackwaterfoot Harbour.

 From Corriecravie we came to Aird nan Ron (Seal Point) and true to its name, the point was a haven for common seals.

  At the next headland, Kilpatrick Point we passed the Preaching Cave in the low cliffs behind the shore. The only sermon we heard were a few singing common seals.

Leaving the hamlet of Kilpatrick we set off across...

...Drumadoon Bay towards the...

 ...village of Blackwaterfoot.

The sands of the village beach are backed by The Doon, a dramatic basalt sill which once had an extensive Iron Age settlement perched on its summit.

Nowadays the settlement of Blackwaterfoot is at sea level and clusters round a tiny harbour at the mouth of....

 ...the Clauchan Water. I explored this waterfall which is the limit of navigation as the local bus rumbled over the bridge.

As we paddled round the little harbour, the family in the VW camper from the camp site gave us a big wave. I think they were surprised we had arrived in Blackwaterfoot before them! From the sea it would be all too easy to miss this tiny harbour. It is worth keeping your eyes open, fortunately I did not have to persuade either Ian or Mike to take a detour. Neither of them are headland to headland types either.