Mulling it over with a dram of malt on Islay

From Eilean Imersay we were now bound for the Isle of Texa on Islay's SE coast. To the east, the distant mountains of Arran rose above the long peninsula of Kintyre.


Note how Tony is looking wistfully at the distant Mull of Kintyre!


On our way to Texa we passed two of the three whisky distilleries that grace this part of Islay's coastline. The first was Ardbeg, a superb peaty malt.


The second was Lagavulin, producers of another fine malt whisky. Sadly we decided to pass them by as we had thoughts of rounding the still distant Mull of Oa later in the day.

I am now off on my own holiday to the Solway, so posting on our Islay trip may be irregular. If you want to read more of Islay I can recommend two blogs by other visitors to this fantastic island: Armin's Islay Blog and Ron's Islay Weblog.

13/07/2008

The great Gargoyle, the tides and eddies of the Mull of Kintyre

The tide swept us round the rocks below the Mull of Kintyre lighthouse at 12km/hour. There was a difference in water level on either side of this rock so definitely no turning back!


Looking back we could just make out the foghorn and lighthouse above the Dug's Lugs rock. It was a surreal and spooky voyage with strange rocks looming out of the mist at us.


Then the Great Gargoyle of the Mull of Kintyre reared up above us. Seafarers are a superstitious lot and our minds were working overtime thinking of all the lost souls that had come to grief in this treacherous spot.


The stalwarts of the DCKC disappeared over the horizon leaving Tony and I to grapple with the demons of the Fog!


We decided to flee out into the safety of tidal race just as the mist began to lift..



We paddled out 500m into the race. We were off the Mull 3 hours after the inshore tide had started to flow SE. As we left the waters close under the rocks, we hit a counter eddy flowing NW. This was also flowing at 12 km/hour. We then ventured further out and hit another SE stream also flowing at 12km/hr at 400 to 500m offshore. The eddy fences were razor sharp. God knows what kind of a maelstrom this would be like on a windy day. Sensible kayakers would leap right into the arms of the Gargoyle!

26/07/2008

Shaggy dogs on Eilean Imersay, Islay

The SE coast of Islay is a maze of reefs and islands. Some of the channels dry out as the tide recedes like this one inside Eilean Mhic Mhaolmhoire.


After a short drag we were afloat again.


Another maze of channels announced our arrival at Eilean Imersay.


We enjoyed second breakfast on this idyllic beach on Eilean Imersay.



David entertained the male members of the party with a series of shaggy dog stories (he is a vet, raconteur and bon viveur). Mair hung her head in despair at how easily the male mind is amused.

13/07/2008

Losts in the mists of the Mull of Kintyre

Tony and I were not the only ones rounding the Mull of Kintyre. Quite independently, Rab, Julia and Donald from the Drumchapel and Clydebank Kayak Club hit on exactly the same itinerary and timing as us!


Although the coast of the Mull of Kintyre is almost beach less, there are large areas of sand below low water. They gave the water a lovely luminous green hue.


There are actually two caves at...


....Uamh Ropa.


The heavy rain of the night before was cascading down from the heights above the mist and plunging into the sea.


Tony attempts to plot our position in the thick mist. Alternatively, keep the Mull close to on the port bow!

26/07/2008

Sand, sea, sun and blue sky on Islay!

On the second day of our Islay trip we awoke to find ourselves on an idyllic spread of machair above a white shell sand beach. The sun was shining the sky was blue and only a light breeze ruffled the waters of the bay. The only cloud on our horizon was the inshore waters forecast for Mull of Kintyre to Ardnamurchan Point. Winds west 3 to 4 backing SW and increasing 5 to 6 later (after 5pm).


What do you do on a beach but build sand castles? My little plastic spade doubles up as a sheep shit clearer on the camp site!


We set off to the south leaving the Sound of Islay and the mountains of Jura behind.


After rounding Ardmore Point we would turn to the SW following Islay's whisky coast! In the distance the Mull of Kintyre could just be seen on the horizon. Little did we know that we would be rounding the Mull within the fortnight!


After passing through Caolas Port na Lice we entered an enchanting area of scattered skerries called Plod Sgeirean. In the distance, the Irish hills of Antrim now drew the eye onward.

13/07/2008

God Knows in the mists of Innean Glen

We had left Macrihanish in thick fog at 0930am, just as the south going tidal flow started. An hour later we were paddling along a coastline of bizarre stacks and skerries whose outlines and sizes were distorted by the mists.


As we approached a maze of skerries the fog seemed to leach all colour from the seascape and smother all sounds except for the gentle dip of our paddles.


A blink of sun tempted us through through the maze.


We emerged into the isolated bay of Innean Glen, the only beach in the 23km between Macrihanish and Carskey Bay on the far side of the Mull of Kintyre.


Just above the beach a lonely sailor's grave is marked by a simple wooden cross. On the 6th of May 1917 the unidentified sailor's body was washed ashore. It was found by the local shepherd who buried him here. Over the years several crosses have marked the spot. This one was made by Neil Brown of Campbeltown in 1998. He had also made the previous one in 1981.


The inscription simply says "God Knows".

We paddled on into the fog uncertain of what lay before us.

26/07/2008

Mull of Kintyre happened this time!

This weekend saw light winds forecast across the west of Scotland. The tides were right for a 62km paddle round the Mull of Kintyre, one of the most remote headlands in the UK. We aimed to leave Macrihanish at 0930 on Saturday 26th July, just as the south going flow started. We expected to arrive at the Mull of Kintyre (14.5km distant) at 1230 when the tide race would be at its maximum. A light wind is essential for such a plan as the tide race would be a maelstrom in strong winds and there would be no turning back! Last year we turned back because the forecast light winds turned into a force 5 easterly which would have meant wind against tide round the Mull.

The Mull of Kintyre  juts out into the North Channel which separates Scotland from Ireland. The tides are so strong and unusual that when the tide is in on the east side of the Kintyre it is out on the west side! You paddle round on sloping water! Careful tidal planning is required for such a trip and it is sensible to refer to the tidal direction rather than flood or ebb. Indeed the tide we caught started as an ebb on the west side of the peninsula and ended up as a flood on the east side of the peninsula! What a fun paddle.... in light winds!


Light winds sometimes mean fog! The curious rock formation at the Mull of Kintyre is called the "Dugs Lugs" (Canine ears).


After rounding the Mull the fog began to lift so we paddled out into the race for a view back to the lighthouse. The light was established in 1788 by Thomas Smith assisted by his son in law, Robert Stevenson, the first of the Stevenson family of lighthouse engineers. It was rebuilt in 1830 and automated in 1996. The light flashes twice, white every 20 secs.

26/07/2008