Imagine you are at the edge of the sea on a day when it is difficult to say where the land ends and the sea begins and where the sea ends and the sky begins. Sea kayaking lets you explore these and your own boundaries and broadens your horizons. Sea kayaking is the new mountaineering.
Wednesday, July 02, 2008
Arrival in Village Bay, St Kilda
Excitement was palpable aboard the Cuma as she steamed into Village Bay, on Hirta the main island of the St Kilda archipelago. We crowded the foredeck to get a better look!
We were not the only tourist boat to arrive ,there were 4 others of various sizes from the 2000 ton Russian Aleksey Maryshev to the small red boat above. With a force 6 southerly forecast for the following day all the others left and the Cuma was the only vessel to stay the night.
The village street was clearly visible behind the shore. The houses which have recently been re-roofed were supposed to be an improvement on the old black houses whose stones can still be seen between the more modern houses. The black houses had thicker walls with round corners and with their thatched roofs were better insulated and less noisy in the incessant winds than the modern square built houses with tin roofs. Wild Soay sheep can be seen grazing round the cottages.
All across the island these stone built cleits served as stores for dried birds and ropes.
We had arrived on one of the few light wind days of the year but it would be windy tomorrow....
02/06/2008
Tuesday, July 01, 2008
Eyes front for the Old Man of Levenish!
As the St Kilda archipelago slowly heaved above the Atlantic horizon....all eyes were excitedly looking ahead.
The first stack we came to was Levenish. From the south east it looked rather uninteresting compared with its more distant neighbours. Then as we passed by we saw the face of the Old Man of Levenish as clear as day!
Behind Levenish lay the dramatic stacks of Stac Lee, Stac an Armin and the island of Boreray. We had nearly arrived at St Kilda!
02/06/2008
Monday, June 30, 2008
Anchors aweigh for St Kilda!
On the morning of 2nd June the day had dawned fair and Murdani, the Cuma's skipper weighed anchor for St Kilda!
Soon the low lying dunes of the Monachs were slipping over the horizon astern and only the lighthouse marked their location.
Ahead of the Cuma lay 66km of the open Atlantic Ocean before she would make landfall at St Kilda. Unlike the low lying Monach Islands we had just left, the soaring cliffs and stacks of the St Kilda archipelago form the highest and most stunning sea cliffs in the British Isles.
Even today it is one of the most difficult parts of the British Isles to reach. Although it was midsummer there was no guarantee we would get there. We knew this only too well. Almost exactly two years ago we had had to turn back. We were aboard a 70 foot converted trawler, the MV Dundarg. A force 9 storm swept in off the Atlantic, forcing us to take shelter in Loch Reasort on the west coast of Lewis. The wind was so strong, Dundarg dragged her anchor all night.
Amazingly, despite the difficulty getting there, St Kilda was inhabited for about 3,500 years, until the islanders abandoned her in the 1930's. St Kilda captures the imagination not just because of its unique location and geology but because of the indomitable human spirit of the generations of islanders that survived on her remote and windswept slopes.
02/06/2008
Sunday, June 29, 2008
Mysterious Mirror of the Monachs
Long after the Monach Islands were abandoned by their inhabitants, fishermen from North Uist and other islands in the Outer Hebrides have returned to lay their lobster pots. They have built rough bothies like this one to stay temporarily on the islands.
As you can see, only the bare necessities of life make it this far. The hand of a woman is nowhere in sight.
But wait, what's that in the right corner? Why it's a full length mirror!! Every bothy should have one! I wonder what the well dressed lobster man is wearing this season?
Saturday, June 28, 2008
Grimsay boats.
On the morning of 2/6/2008 we were awoken by the "put put" of a single cylinder diesel engine puttering round the turquoise waters of the Monach Islands. When we came up on deck our spirits were raised by the start of a fine day, this was the day we hoped to reach and paddle round the shores of St Kilda but at first we could not see the source of the sound.
Then a lobster boat took shape as she emerged from the burning reflection of the early morning sun. This was no ordinary GRP lobster boat. This was a Grimsay boat. The Grimsay boat is to the Outer Hebrides what the Model T Ford was to the rest of the World. These boats proved to be versatile for both transport and fishing throughout the isles. Since the 1840's it is estimated that over 1000 Grimsay boats were built by the Stewart family until their last full time builder died in 1994.
It was a joy to see this Grimsay boat being handled by Donald Brady from North Uist as he checked his lobster pots on the Monach islands. The Grimsay boats were of wooden clinker construction but with an exceptionally deep and fine keel. This allowed them to handle the Atlantic swell and surf found on the west coast of the Outer Hebrides. Due to the lack of harbours on the west coast, these boats were built in sizes of 10 to 28 feet. This allowed them to slip through tidal channels between the islands to sheltered anchorages on the east coast.
In 1928 the Grimsay yard launched the Morning Star. She was the link between the mainland of North Uist and the isolated community on the Monach Islands. She carried passengers, supplies and the mail. In recent years she had lain in disrepair in a mud berth in a creek of Loch Maddy in North Uist. She was restored and relaunched in 2007 by apprentices working at the Boatshed in Grimsay.
02/06/2008
We had seen other other Grimsay boats in various stages of restoration at Bhaltos when we first arrived on Lewis.
30/05/2008
Friday, June 27, 2008
Sunset over the Monach Islands
As we paddled round the remote Monach Islands, which lie to the West of the outer Hebrides, the mid summer sun began its journey to set in the far north west.
As Cuma swung gently at her anchor, we watched the sunset in appreciative silence. Like the mythical Avalon, St Kilda lay far beyond the western horizon, where the sun met the sea in blaze of crimson fire. We could only hope that the red sky at night bade well, for a settled spell of weather, to reach those long abandoned isles.
01/06/2008
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
Mike Thomson
My friend Mike Thomson of Scottish Paddler Supplies has died.
He became unwell while driving back to Scotland with a load of new sea kayaks. I can hardly believe what I am writing, as Mike was a larger than life character who was so full of life and seemed such a permanent part of Scottish paddling life. Who can forget his deep sonorous voice "Hello, this is Scottish Paddler Supplies" when he picked up the phone? His voice sounded like a wonderful deep and liquid sound from the back of some distant sea cave.
When I say he was my friend, I am not claiming any exclusivity, he was a warm hearted and open man who made friends with all his customers. He was most certainly not a "box shifter". He liked to get to know his customers' needs before he would sell anything. He would also lend gear to make sure it was what you really wanted. Afterwards, his customer support, if there was a problem with gear, was quite exceptional in my experience of any retail field.
He also took particular care with newcomers to sea kayaking. He would spend a great deal of time giving advice about any aspect of sea kayaking. I was a complete newcomer when I first contacted Mike and I have no doubt that his sound advice helped me safely on my way. As a result of his approachfullness, he built up a loyal band of customers not just in Scotland but in many other countries across the world.
As a retailer, he was a familiar sight with demo boats and stands at symposia such as the Skye Sea Kayaking Symposium and also shows such as the Perth Paddle Show. Of course Mike was not just a retailer, he also designed and manufactured sea kayaking accessories such as J bars for roof racks and kayak trolleys. These are made of such high quality materials that no doubt they will be dug up and puzzled over by future archaeologists! I tested a group of trolleys on the portage over the rough track from Tarbert on Jura for Ocean Paddler magazine. Mike was so pleased when only his trolley made it over unscathed. In fact, it needed to return to the summit to rescue another boat whose trolley had completely broken! I can still remember Mike's hearty chuckle as he read the article. Mike was always looking for ways to improve his designs and he asked if I had any suggestions for the trolley. He was working on a modification when we last spoke, just before he died.
Mike walks over a Coll beach towards an early Quest prototype. Photo by Ronnie Weir.
He was also involved in tests of two P&H prototypes called project X (later to resurface as the Bahiya) and project Y, one of which would be chosen as their new expedition boat. He particularly liked project Y and said it was the one for his customers. He took delivery of one of the first production models which P&H called the the "Cappela Explorer".
Mike named this individual boat "Sea Quest" but told P&H that the name "Capella Explorer" was just confusing customers because of the existing "Capella" in the range. He suggested they should change the name. The y did and the "Quest" was born! Mike's enthusiasm for this boat did much to ensure the success of the Quest and there can hardly be a Scottish beach that has not been graced by several.
He had a great sense of humour and I can still remember his deep HO HO HOs when we shared a joke. One such joke was Brace-a-Float and remarkably he was still getting enquiries about these as recently as last month!
He started his own paddling career with Fife Sea Kayak Club and over the years he had written articles about their exploits for many magazines. Recently he had written several humorous and lively articles about his trips for Ocean Paddler magazine. He hadn't taken photographs at the time but I had followed in his wake and was honoured when he asked if I could supply some photos to go with his articles.
He was also a volunteer trip organiser for the Scottish Canoe Association and in March this year had organised one of the first ever kayaking trips on Loch Katrine after it had been opened to public access for the first time.
Mike loved all aspects of the outdoors but particularly the sea (he was also a sailor). He passed his sense of respect for the sea and of looking after the countryside to all those whom he came across. He played a great role in the expansion of sea kayaking in Scotland but he was always concerned that people should start off feeling respect for the outdoors. He felt that the environment would not be harmed by growing numbers if participants shared this respect. He was not an evangelist though, he simply showed newcomers his own obvious enjoyment of the outdoors.
The world is a better place because of people like Mike Thomson and it is poorer with his passing. However, Mike helped so many people on the way to enjoying their sea kayaking adventures that his joy of life and the outdoors will live on through them for many years to come. I count myself lucky for being one who knew him.
My condolences to all those who have lost with his passing, especially his family and close friends.