A sailor's grave high above the Sound of Jura.

Leaving the islands of the Dorus Mor, we allowed the tides to carry us down and across the Sound of Jura. The lonely lighthouse of Ruadh Sgeir broke the southern horizon.


We were bound for the wooded coast of Knapdale but a high pressure haze hid the coastal features.


We passed below Ardnoe Point. A sailor's grave lies in the woods high above the point, overlooking the constantly moving tides. His name was John Black and he died from cholera on his schooner in 1832. My grandfather's name was John Black. The family were fishermen and sailors and came from this part of Argyll. I wonder if I am related to this sailor?


After paying our respects, Duntrune Castle announced our arrival at Loch Crinan.

12/02/2008

The lost chapel of the islands at the edge of the Dorus Mor.

A lonely islet to the SW of Eilean na Cille.

On passing through the Dorus Mor (Great Door) tide race we paddled down the SE side of Garbh Reisa (the rough one in the tide race) and slipped NW against the tide, which was pouring through the gap between it and Eilean na Cille (Chapel Island).


We landed on a reef to the NW of Eilean na Cille and enjoyed first luncheon in the splendid isolation of these rocky isles that are cut off from the world by the powerful tides of the Sound of Jura. Of the eponymous chapel, there was now not a trace. Even its heyday, I doubt if it would have been "standing room only" for Sunday worship.


As the ebb streamed away to the south, the weak winter sun reached its zenith but after months of rain, at least we could see it!

We left these islands on the last of the ebb. Their past is now remembered only in a name.

12/02/2008

The hand-less piper of Duntrune Castle.

Loch Crinan is guarded on its north shore by the austere greyness of the tower of Duntrune Castle. It dates from the 12th century and was a Campbell stronghold for many centuries but has been owned by the Malcolm family since 1792. It is reputed to be one of the oldest continuously inhabited buildings in Scotland and as such it is unfortunately not open to the public.

It is haunted by the ghost of a hand-less piper. He was a MacDonald who was captured in the early 1600’s. His life was spared, as he was known as a fine piper, but he was imprisoned with his pipes in a small room at the top of the tower. One day, from his high vantage point he saw his chief's (Coll MacDonald) galley approaching a Campbell ambush. He played a lament "Cholla mo Run, Seachain a Dun" or “My beloved Coll, avoid the castle”. The Campbells were so incensed by his warning that they cut his hands off so he would never play again.

Of course, there are often two sides to stories involving the MacDonalds and the Campbells. Coll had sent the piper as a spy into the Campbell Castle.

12/02/2008

Set the controls for the heart of the sun.

We launched from the old jetty on the NW side of the Craignish peninsula. The sun was just rising above the hills. We paddled north round Eilean Ona then ferried across the south going tide to Reisa Mhic Phadean.


Paddling down the Sound of Jura with the Craignish peninsula leading down to the Dorus Mor tide race between it and the island of Garbh Reisa.


Looking west through the Corryvreckan.


Entering the Dorus Mor.

12/02/2008

Glorious Dorus Day!

Today it was glorious in the west of Scotland.


It was 2 days after springs so we decided to take two little runs through the Dorus Mor tide race while it was going full tilt. With this tidal assistance we had a very easy 30km day (and all two and a half hours from home).

The staff of seakayakphoto.com live in paradise.

12/02/2008

Hand dived scallops of Harris.

It was quite windy in Loch Reasort, a deep sea loch on the west coast of Harris in the Outer Hebrides. It was perhaps a little too breezy for sea kayaking.


So we went for a walk...


....while the divers went... diving in nearby Loch Tamnabhaigh.


They brought up a good haul of hand dived scallops. Recently StuartA commented "Maybe for hand-caught scallops? Yum!"


There is a worrying number of bits and pieces in there...


... but as Stuart said, Yum! (This photo Mike Marshall.)

12/06/2006

Greenan, the fourth castle of Carrick, and a corpse.

Leaving Dunure (and its quickly receding tide) we made good progress NE towards the Heads of Ayr.


Spying a convenient landing spot, we took a short break at Bracken Bay.


We passed the Heads of Ayr, which are the remains of the lava flow from a volcano on the Carrick Hills. This was active (at the same time as Ailsa Craig) when Europe and America began to drift apart as the Atlantic Ocean widened.


At last we paddled past Greenan Castle, the fourth castle on this sea kayaking tour of "the four coastal castles of Carrick".


This photo (from a previous trip on 09/11/2003) shows the castle's supreme defensive position on the very edge of a cliff to the south of Ayr. There have been defensive buildings on this site for over a thousand years but the present tower house dates from the 16th century.

In 1602 Sir Thomas Kennedy of Culzean spent the night at Greenan prior to setting off on a long ride Edinburgh. Unfortunately he only made it a few miles to St. Leonard's woods in Ayr. He was ambushed and murdered there by a kinsman, Thomas Kennedy of Drummurchie, who was a Bargany Kennedy. The Culzean and Bargany Kennedys were bitter enemies and their long and bloody feud was immortalised by Sir Walter Scott in "An Ayrshire Tragedy" and by SR Crocket in "The Grey Man".

The road where Sir Thomas's corpse was discovered was renamed Corsehill Road. I used to live in Corsehill Road and on stormy nights, when the wind was howling through the trees, it was always a relief to shut and bolt the door!


The day was nearly done by the time we got back to Seafield beach at Ayr. We made our way home up Corsehill Road in the gathering winter darkness. Of Sir Thomas, there was not a sight. May he rest in peace.

And that brings to a close our four castles (and three pints and innumerable tales) of Carrick sea kayaking tour. I hope you have enjoyed "paddling" along with us on the way.

20/01/2008