Cragaig Cottage, Ulva

When we left the welcoming warmth of the Boathouse into the chill of a thundery Scottish evening, we were not wholly without an accommodation plan. Tony had previously fallen while carrying a loaded kayak down a steep slippery shore and his paddling clothes were soaked. We had noticed the locked cottage at Cragaig and asked the ferry man about it. He phoned the estate manager, Mr Jamie Howard, and it was ours for the night for £30.


We dried out in the warmth of a coal fire. The back burner heated water for a hot shower and there was a working WC! There was also gas for the oven and stove. What a fabulous find Cragaig was on such a wet day!

(We have never pretended to be truly hardened sea kayakers, able to survive in the open with only a tartan plaid of rough wool and a bag of oats.)


To make things even more perfect, as we dried out, so did the weather and there was a late blink of sun on the Wilderness coast.

The township of Cragaig on the southern shore of Ulva had flourished in the 19th century until the kelp harvesting industry collapsed and the potato famine struck. Its last resident was a lobster fisherman who moved here in the 1930’s after having lived for 40 years on nearby Little Colonsay. Behind the cottage, two standing stones, dating from 1500 BC, are testament to this now deserted valley having a long history of habitation. A little further away, a human infant’s bones, dating from prior to 5500BC, were discovered in L ivingstone’s cave.

To book the cottage or to wild camp on Ulva contact Estate Manager Mr Jamie Howard Tel: 01688 500264.

Ulva lobster and prawn boat.

The Sound of Ulva nestles between Mull and Ulva and joins Loch na Keal in the south to Loch Tuath in the north. It is a sheltered anchorage for both pleasure and work boats. Some work boats ferry tourists to the Treshnish Isles and Staffa and others reap the local sea food which was a highlight of our visit to the Boathouse. I just loved the curve of this boats stem as it lay at anchor below the bold outline of Ben More.

The Boathouse, Ulva

It has to be said that an increasing number of complaints have been arriving here at seakayakphoto.com headquarters. A general theme is succinctly expressed by “Thirsty Paddler” who writes “Wot’s happened to sea kayaking pubs?” Well seakayakphoto.com reviews are renowned for their in depth analysis. Not for us, spotting a pub from the cockpit and writing a “review” from afar. No! All our sea kayaking pubs reviews depend on thirsty paddlers being served while dripping water and leaving a trail of sandy footprints from whence they came. This attention to detail takes time and our staff are not to be hurried in their task. Indeed our reviewers are renowned for their dedication to duty, even under the most adverse of conditions.

On our recent tour of the west coast of Mull we awoke on the isle of Ulva with the express intention of heading out to the Treshnish Isles, a mere 11 km to our west. However, on reaching the eastern tip of Gometra, a 4/5 easterly wind with the forecast of a 5/6 easterly in the morn convinced us that a change of direction was required. We decided to complete a circumnavigation of Ulva.


Tony doing some serious preparation for a seakayaking pubs review.


Quite unexpectedly we came across a pub. The Boathouse has a convenient beach which leads up to the very door of the establishment.


Initially we were disappointed that there were no draught ales on sale as casks of ale are too difficult to deliver to the island. (There is no vehicular access, only a ferry for foot passenger plies the waters of the Sound of Ulva.) We were cheered however, to find ourselves seated beside the chilled drinks cabinet, which contained a fine selection of our favoured libations in both bottles and cans. (Note the spreading puddle on the floor!)


The Boathouse also serves an excellent selection of cold and hot soft drinks for those of more delicate constitution and balance. They also have a fine purvey of home baking including scones and carrot cake. What really took our fancy was the range of seafood, including oysters, scallops and Norwegian Prawns (langoustines). On enquiring if food was still available, (it was just before closing time at 5pm, the last ferry runs at 5 which explains the early closing) we were told it had been busy because of the rain and that the sea food was now finished. Sensing our disappointment, the girl said she could manage some prawns if we were willing to wait a little. I asked “how long?”, fully expecting that the ping of a microwave at the end of its defrost cycle would announce the crustaceans’ arrival. The girl pointed to the prawn boat edging into the jetty outside.

Well these prawns were simply superb they were served with home grown watercress, a delicate garlic butter and freshly baked brown bread. The meal was quite outstanding and deserved to be quaffed down with several more cans of Guinness (it would be imprudent to say how many). The Boathouse at Ulva is a marvellous institution that goes out of its way to welcome thirsty and hungry sea kayakers. It is highly recommended.


Well after closing time, we wended our way back to the boats and set off again into the rain and wind. Under the angry skies of a Scottish summer evening we were in search of dry lodging for the night…

Health warning.
Reviewing sea kayaking pubs is an acknowledged risk activity. Participants should do so in a responsible manner so that they neither compromise their own nor others’ safety.

Ben More sunset

From the shores of the island of Ulva, the setting sun casts a red glow on the now cold basalt rocks of Ben More on Mull. Once it spouted red molten magma from deep within the Earth and was the largest volcano in Europe. Today its lava fields cover 840 square kilometres and are up to 1.8 kilometres thick. The islands round Loch na Keal bear testament to this fiery past and are an irresistable magnet to any sea kayaker.

First glimpse of the Wilderness

Loch na Keal nearly bisects the mountainous isle of Mull. The B8073 to the hamlet of Ulva Ferry hugs its north coast. After a long climb you crest a ridge and are confronted with your first view of the Wilderness. 50 million years ago the lavas from the great Ben More volcano were finally halted by the sea here at the edge of the Ardmeanach peninsula. The cliffs of the Wilderness now tumble steeply for 370 metres to the shores of Loch na Keal below. Today the Wilderness is home only to goats, sea eagles and pelagic sea kayakers. Our first glimpse of the Wilderness set our hearts beating in anticipation of an outstanding paddle. We were not to be disappointed.

The Wilderness of Mull

The Wilderness of Mull lies at the foot of a giant series of lava floes from the extinct Mull volcano. There is almost no easy access on foot due to the near vertical lava cliffs at the top of the slope. The whole is composed of alternate layers of lava and volcanic ash. Where the sea has eroded its base there are fossil remains of organisms that were overcome by the eruptions.

Teeming waters below the Wilderness of Mull

Below the sea stack of Caisteal Sloc nam Ban on the Wilderness coast of Mull the waters were crystal clear. They were teeming with sand-eels and sprats. Great flotillas of immature shearwaters were learning to fish and shoals of mackerel would bring the smaller fish to the surface so that the water boiled. We also feasted on mackerel, eating them even before rigor mortis set in! Delicious!