Much toing and froing on the crossing to West Loch Tarbert.

We set off across the Sound of Gigha towards the Kintyre mainland in glassy calm conditions but it is not always like this...

...as this photo, taken in the same place 6 yearrs previously (2007), shows all too clearly. Strong tides, shallow sea and wind against tide can soon rustle up some rough conditions.

 Although it was calm, our route lay along the course of the Islay ferries, the ...

 ...MV Flaggan passed on her way out and the...

 ...MV Hebridean Isles passed us on her way in to Kennacraig.  We kept well to the south of the ferries and...

...after a 10km crossing we entered the mouth of West Loch Tarbert.

We made landfall at the head of Dunskeig Bay. Dun Skeig hill towers above the bay and on its summit lie the remains of 3 successive hill forts or duns.

As we unpacked our breakfast things the MV Hebridean Isles made its way back out of the narrow entrance to West Loch Tarbert.

We were not alone on Gigha.

We awoke to a beautiful morning on Gigha but unfortunately we were not alone. We had been joined by billions of midges who enjoyed breakfast on us.

 So we missed our own breakfasts and hurriedly broke camp and loaded the boats.

 It was such a relief to be out on the cool midge free water.

In the early morning sunshine, we paddled to the north end of Gigha where we caught sight of our next destination. The mouth of West Loch Tarbert was highlighted by the silhouette of the morning ferry to Islay, the MV Finlaggan.

Living the dream of the Hebridean Isles on Gigha.

Due to the presence of an amphidromic point between Islay and the Mull of Kintyre, the mean spring tidal range on the west coast of Gigha is only about 1m so we did not ...

 ...need to pull the kayaks very far up the beach before settling down to...

 ...enjoy the sunset.

We gazed wistfully at the islands on the horizon, Islay to the west and Jura to the north west and...

...,as the midge attack lessened,  made plans to visit Islay in July. At the back of my mind I suspected this might be wishful thinking, After 4 days of paddling my shoulder was giving me real concern. I knew I would have to go and see about it on my return.

 Ever so gradually the day faded away over Islay and...

...Jura but it was still light when we went to bed about midnight. We may have dreamed of Hebridean Isles but on this trip we were living the dream!

Light my fire, on Gigha.

Nothing beats a fire on a wild camp but the machair on so many beautiful campsites is scarred by charred circles surrounded by blackened stones. Everyone seems to set up a new fire ring so the beach is scarred not just once but multiple times. It is much better to build a fire well down the beach so that the next tide sweeps it clean. We don't bother with a circle of stones.

Last year's bracken fronds make great tinder but it can be useful to have some cotton wool balls or pads in case things are damp. You can use a match or, as in this case, create sparks from a flint.

 Soon you will have a lovely fire to bake potatoes in and to...

...while away the hours until sunset.

End of a long day on Gigha.

 From the old mill, we paddled north up the...

 ...west coast of .Gigha.

We saw the MV Finlaggan round the north end on her way to Islay.

 At last we spotted a good place to...

 ...set up camp with a great view...

 ...to the Paps of Jura.

Better Days #15, on Gigha

We found this sad old wooden clinker rowing boat in the undergrowth above the beach at Port an Duin on Gigha. I rather liked the look of her lines but sadly she has seen Better Days.

Trouble at the mill on Gigha.

At the northern end of Cnoc Loisgte a sudden break in the rocks appears. It is called Port an Duin, landing place of the fort. A sheltered inlet is created by a small island which sits at the mouth of a small bay below an old dun or fort. These goslings were enjoying the shelter. I had first paddled round Gigha 10 years previously and...

 ...had always wanted to land and explore the old mill. I have visited at least once a year since then but have always been thwarted from landing by either the swell (or midges). At last suitable weather conditions allowed a landing but my troublesome left knee let me down. Low tide revealed a sloping slab covered in slippery seaweed. There was no way I would get across unaided. Fortunately Mike and Phil came to my help and escorted me safely to a the shore.

 It was well worth the trip. The mill is nearly 200 years old, dating from the early 19th century.

 The cast iron lade and...

... overshot 16 foot water wheel are still complete.

 The axle runs through the north wall of the mill and...

...connects to a gear wheel on the interior, which was used to drive the mechanism. The millstones are on the floor under that tangle of undergrowth.

On the mill's east wall the grain shoot is still in existence. Oat grains were poured from sacks which were stored on a higher building on the...

...uphill side of the mill. What a fascinating spot. Thanks again to Mike and Phil for helping me see it.