Blowing away the cobwebs, after a night on the tiles.

From St Blane's Hotel, we walked to Kilchattan's old pier. In the 18th century Kilchattan was the centre of a thriving tile making industry which lasted for nearly 80 years. It closing in 1919. The Marquis of Bute opened the works to make tiles for lining the bottom of field drains. When the industry collapsed its place was taken by mass tourism. The Glaswegian tourists would come down the Clyde on one of the many steamers. That industry collapsed after WW2 with the arrival of cheap air fares and package holidays to Spain.

 Nowadays this corner of Bute is a quiet retreat for a few discerning tourists.

 We left the Victorian villas of Kilchattan behind and set off...

across the expanse of Kilchattan Bay. A fine breeze got up and blew away David's cobwebs (he had had  late night on the town, the night before). We were now off to see if we could find the Marquis of Bute's house.

Saints and Psychos on Bute.

We left the west coast of the Little Cumbrae heading for Kilchattan Bay on the SE coast of Bute.

We crossed the Firth of Clyde Channel, keeping a wary eye open for ships but we only crossed paths with "Well-Try" a Poole registered trawler working out of Rothesay.

Entering Kilchattan Bay we passed...

..the New Pier. Although it is new, it dates from the 1880s when the boom in Clyde steamers brought tourists to Kilchattan. It was last used in 1955. The name Kil Chattan means church of St Cathan who came here from Ireland and founded a hermitage here in AD 539. His nephew was St Blane...

...who had this hotel and a nearby church named after him. St Blane's Hotel rather reminded me of the Bates mansion in Hitchcock's film Psycho...

...so we decided to call by and see if either Norman or his mother was at home. Opening the creaking door we were faced by a fading tartan carpet descending from the central Victorian staircase. As we turned right into the Bar, we were slightly apprehensive in case Mrs Bates showed her disapproval of our kayaking wear. In fact we found a warm welcome from the young bar staff, cold Guinness and a really excellent, large plate of fish and chips. Just to reduce sampling error, we ordered a second Guinness, which was just the same as the first. This hotel has received mixed reviews on TripAdvisor but we enjoyed our visit and will happily return to this charming spot on Bute. Sadly, since our visit in September 2010, the hotel has closed and is currently for sale. I hope it reopens soon.

Perhaps the retreating Vikings had more romantically called it Pillage Point?

From the Farland Point on the Great Cumbrae we set off on the crossing of The Tan towards...

...Little Cumbrae island. In the distance, the clouds and mists rolled round the corries and ridges of Arran's granite mountains.

We slid down the east coast of Little Cumbrae and stopped off at the castle for first luncheon.

Our first post prandial point proved to be Gull Point. We often wonder why it got such a prosaic name as Gull Point in the Scots tongue? Perhaps the retreating Vikings had more romantically called it Pillage Point?

Our last point of contact with Little Cumbrae island was the Cumbrae Elbow with its two lighthouses.

Wherever you go on the Clyde, you will not need an anemometer!

Unfortunately I dislocated my "good" knee after our recent Ayrshire's Atlantic Coast trip and, despite several good days since, I have not been able to get out. So, turning the clock back to September 2010...

... David and I convened at Largs marina  on the Firth of Clyde. The memorial "pencil" commemorates the Battle of Largs (1263) between the Scots, led by Alexander III and King Hakon of Norway. Both sides suffered terrible losses but the battle marked the start of the end of Viking influence in Scotland.

We set across the Fairlie Roads bound for the south end of Great Cumbrae island. This view will soon be radically altered by the construction of three giant wind turbines, each of which will be 195.5m tall. They will be sited near the ore terminal cranes but will tower above them. Indeed, they will tower above Goldenberry Hill beyond the cranes. They will be visible all over the Firth of Clyde, Even the existing 100m tall windmills near West Kilbride...

...can be seen from Arran on the far side of the Clyde. This photo taken from Brodick (on Arran) shows the existing 100m windmills to the right of the ferry. The new windmills will be sited just to the left of Goldenberry Hill, which is the dark hill between the white power station towers and the ferry. The Hill is 26km from Brodick and 140m high. and the three windmills will be almost 200m, some 60m higher than the hill. Wherever you go on the Clyde you will not need an anemometer!

We made good progress and we were soon passing the...

 ...Hunterston ore terminal, where the Greek bulk carrier MV Ariadne was off loading coal into the smaller Norwegian bulk carrier MV Mornes.

On arrival at the Great Cumbrae, we passed the RV Aora and the RV Actinia, which were moored at Keppel Pier the University Marine Biological Station, Millport.

Michelin starred pow wow at Knockinaam

We had been paddling along the remote Rhinns of Galloway peninsula for what seemed ages. Our stomachs were groaning with hunger pangs. 

At last we came across a break in the previously relentless rocks, Port of Spittal Bay. We have several times passed this spot without stopping. There appeared to be a house standing a little way back from the beach. We started drooling with the thought that perhaps we could beg some morsels of food.

On this cold January day, the North Channel tide race was pumping on the horizon. There was a little shore break in the bay...

...and it was good to feel our feet on the beach of coarse, grey sand and shingle.

Weak with hunger, our faltering steps took us up the beach towards the isolated house...

...we opened the creaking door and stepped inside. We were warmly greeted and told we were to be the only guests at the Knockinaam Lodge hotel that night. We were told a previous resident had been Sir Winston Churchill, who held several secret meeting here with President Eisenhower during the dark days of WW2.

Even better, we discovered that the hotel has a restaurant (though it only has a solitary Michelin star). Despite there just being just the two of us, Tony Pierce the chef, put on the full menu. We dined exceptionally well that night then slumbered in the warm, comfortable room with the waves crashing on the shore as a lullaby.

Sea kayaking Ayrshire's Atlantic Coast

A 23km day paddle from Lendalfoot to Finnarts Bay.

Exploring the geos of Bennane Head.

Bennane Head tidal streams:

The tides round Bennane Head are rather interesting. As the flood rushes up the Firth of Clyde, through the North Channel, you might expect it to flow north all the way up the Ayrshire coast. However, it hits Bennane head and splits, so south of the Head the flood is south going!

On the ebb the two streams reverse and travelling at 2.5 knots, they collide off the Head.  This disturbed water can get even rougher against a SW wind.

For kayakers, unless you hit the Head at slack water, you will need to paddle against the tide on one side of the Head or the other.

South of Bennane Head to Finnarts point

SSW going +0425 HW Greenock 

NNE going -0140 HW Greenock 

North of Bennane Head to Lendalfoot

NNE going +0425 HW Greenock

SSW going -0140 HW Greenock

A long shuttle to Loch Ryan...

A solitary perch on Whilk Isle.

The Cannibal's Cave and Skippy the Bush Kangaroo!

Bums on seats round Bennane Head.

Drouthy kayakers give Ballantrae a miss.

Full flood puts feathered friends to flight.

Don't look a vet's gift horse in the mouth.

An unadventurous lot, down on Ayrshire's Atlantic Coast.

Measuring up northern giants on the electric causeway to Ireland.

Skipping along the Ayrshire coast.

Portandea, any port in a storm.

Several shags, an Earth movement and a bridge too far.

Nightfall and landfall in Loch Ryan.

Meall a' Bhuiridh

Here is news of performances of a new musical composition accompanied by a display of fine art photographic images inspired by the Glen Coe ski hill. The music is by Spad and the photography by my daughter Jennifer.

Photo Jennifer Wilcox

Photo Jennifer Wilcox

The performances are as follows:
1st March 2012– Glasgow, The Universal, 9.30pm (Tickets £6 and £4 consession)
3rd March 2012 – Glencoe Ski Centre, 6.30pm (free!)

The commission was supported by Creative Scotland.

Being a cheapskate, I thought I might head up to Glencoe on Saturday the third and go for a paddle in Loch Leven  then go for a a meal in either the Isles of Glencoe Hotel or the Clachaig before heading up to the ski centre. Anyone fancy coming?