Dark deeds on the north shore of Oban Bay.

It was now time to leave the bustle of Oban.


Having said that, it has one of the most picturesque settings of any Scottish sea side town. Oban Bay is protected by the lovely isle of Kerrera, seen here on the right. The narrow Sound of Kerrera stretches away to the south west. The distant island of Insh can be seen through the far entrance to the Sound. Oban Marina is actually situated on Kerrera with a water bus to connect to Oban. The marina welcomes visiting sea kayakers, they have showers, laundry and a restaurant.


We made our way along Oban Bay's north shore, past the diminutive lighthouse...


...and the imposing bulk of Dunollie Castle. The keep dates from the 15th century but the first fortifications date from the 7th. It belonged to the MacDougall clan, the Lords of Lorn, who at one time owned a third of Scotland! Apparently they were quite a rough lot!


As we approached the mouth of the Bay, we came to...


...little Maiden Island. The island has a dark legend attached to its past. A young girl was tied to the rocks at low tide to persuade her to admit to witchcraft or the like. However, she did not admit any guilt and the tide came in and drowned her.


As we reflected on this dark past, the skies to the north west lightened...

Better days for some in Oban harbour.

Leaving the NLV Pharos and Pole Star, the next vessel we came upon in Oban harbour was the RNLI lifeboat. She is the RNLB "Mora Edith MacDonald". The number 14 on her hull tells she is a 14m long Trent class and 23 that she is the 23rd of the class. She is capable of speeds of up to 25 knots. She entered service at Oban in 1997 and since then has been called out on over emergencies saving almost 100 lives.


At the next jetty we found the CalMac ferry MV Isle of Cumbrae. She was built in Troon in 1976. Currently during the summer she is on the Tarbert-Portavadie route across the mouth of Loch Fyne. During the winter she is a relief vessel and I think she might have been on the Oban - Lismore run, when we saw her back in March.


We continued past the main CalMac terminal which was empty and arrived at the head of Oban Bay under McCaig's folly. It was constructed between 1897 and 1902 by a wealthy banker John Stuart McCaig, to create work at a time of high unemployment in the area. It is built from granite from the Bonawe quarry on the shores of Loch Etive, (opposite where we had left a shuttle car).


This is a good spot to land if you want a break ashore...


...but we carried on round the Bay, leaving Pharos and Pole Star far behind, until...


...we came across this sad old fishing boat, hidden away at the north side of the north pier. Sadly, she had seen better days.

The Pharos and the Pole Star

The first ships we came to as we entered Oban harbour...


... had some seriously heavy lifting gear on board.


These fine vessels were the Northern Lighthouse Board ships NLV Pharos and NLV Pole Star. They are designed for maintaining lighthouses and navigation buoys and can accurately hold position while laying moorings for buoys.


We often see Pharos and Pole Star on our trips...


...but apart from this time in Oban harbour, I doubt they have ever seen us!

GearPods review

Here is an interesting gadget. In its nylon sleeve it can be strapped on to a BA kept on deck...


...or it just the right size to push up into the wasted space beside a skeg box. Its called GearPods, basically a modular series of different length tubes with single and double ended screw caps so that a series may be screwed together. The little Pod on the end is ideal for electronic car keys though I prefer to carry these in a waterproof bag on my person.


Here it is in comparison with some other things I use to carry odds and ends. The Nalgene bottle has a pretty narrow mouth in comparison.


It comes either as the bare Pod or including a variety of contents such as a first aid kit (some rubber gloves might be a useful addition) but it even includes a little pair of tweezers.


This is the outdoor survival kit. It even includes a little anodised aluminium stove that either burns solid fuel "metamine" tablets or has a little burner for meths. the aluminium windshield makes it effective in a breeze.


Other contents include waterproof matches, LED torch, whistle, signalling mirror, fishing hooks, water purification tablets and a little stand up poly bag for the purification, (though you could also use the pod or the stove cup) etc. etc!


Talking of waterproof, is it? Well my jet wash turned up full, could not manage to get even a drop inside! I think it passed the test!

It's an ideal present for Father's Day then! Either the bare Pods or with the included kits. A very well designed product. More info over at the GearPods web site.

Conflict of interest statement: I did not purchase the GearPods. Sammy from Adventure Gear Systems kindly sent me a commercial sample for review.

Arrival in Oban

A rumble of engines coming down the Sound roused us from our reverie in the Tolkienesque landscape of Lorn. It was the MV Isle of Mull, en route from Oban to Scalasaig on Colonsay.


We were soon back on the water and Jim B got some edging practice in...


...below the grounds of Gallanach House.


It was not long before we were approaching the north end of the island of Kerrera.


We then turned a corner and there we were, right in the midst of the hubbub of Oban harbour, round which the town nestles below McCaig's Folly, which is perched on the hill above.

Luncheon below a volcano.

We turned north east from the mouth of Loch Feochan and entered the Sound of Kerrera which would take us to Oban harbour.


The steep rocks that rise from the shore of the sound show much evidence of volcanic activity.


Indeed we could see that Dun Ormidale is a former volcanic vent. There is an Iron Age fort on its summit, which takes advantage of its natural defensive structure.


We decided to stop for luncheon on the beach at Port Lathaich below the fort.


A variety of post-prandial malts were sampled on the shore.

A cottage and a castle at Loch Feochan

We took a diversion into a little bay near the north shore of the mouth of Loch Feochan.


At its head stood a delightful cottage with a wisp of smoke rising from its chimney. Access is only by a footpath rising over the hills. There was no sign of a boat. This cottage was used in the 1969 film "Ring of Bright Water" to represent Gavin Maxwell's house Camusfearna (bay of the alders). Other filming took place nearby at the islands of Easdale and Seil. Camusfearna was actually located near the Sandaig Islands much further to the north.


Our first stop was to investigate the ancient fort An dunan, which is the grassy mound at the left of this photo. We landed and launched at the delightful cove of Port an t-Sruthain. I don't know who had most difficulty getting back into their kayak, myself with my bad knee or Jim W with his tiny ocean cockpit.


As the sun began to rise, we made our way into the Firth of Lorn.


We were all looking forward to another fantastic day on the water. None more so than our good friend Jim B.