Kayak Caledonia progress report #8

Day 14, 4th June 47km

21:28 Tony:
"We are in Dunbeath. I thought the east coast would be downhill all the way but we hit some of the roughest water yet between Noss Head and Sarclet Head. The tide was against us and with the NE wind it was wind against tide all the way. Unfortunately we could not get in really close to all the caves geos and stacks. Once round Sarclet we were in the lee of the cliffs so it was a good bit easier and proved to be a most interesting stretch with great rock architecture. We climbed up the hill behind Dunbeath beach and staggered to the hotel, but it was shut. That was the low point of the trip. We walked up the A9 and fortunately found a pub.

At our last stop, yesterday evening, the pub proved to be a Grade 5 experience. It was really noisy but fell silent when we walked in and all eyes were on us. After 14 days we smell pretty bad but we sure sweetened the air in that place, it was the baddest smelling pub in all Scotland. After a while the noise started again as they all started talking about us. They spoke a different language, composed entirely of four letter, one syllable words. After a quick drink, we left the public bar to the locals and went into the lounge bar for something to eat. If anything it smelled even worse. I have no idea what it was we ate. We were glad to escape to the tents.

Given the force 7 forecast for tomorrow pm, we will get going about 5am and hopefully get down to Golspie before the wind hits us. The heavy rain will hopefully cleanse le eau de Keiss out our pores."

The three pillars of Knockbrex

On Sunday I set off at 06:30am and paddled round the Islands of Fleet before heading towards the Carrick Coast of Galloway near Knockbrex. I came across three mysterious pillars. On further investigation I discovered they led to a hidden channel in the rocks.


Round a bend at the head of this channel lay a secret harbour. It was probably built for a yacht owned by the residents of nearby Knockbrex house.


A splendid morning paddle of 12km.

31/05/2009 am

Kayak Caledonia progress report #7

Day 13, 3rd June 27km

14:15 Tony phoned for a weather update for Duncansby Head area.

"We are in John O' Groats. Its only about a f3 from the north but we wondered if there was any chance of the F5 round Orkney and Shetland coming this far south."

Hello Tony, North of Duncansby Head it is showing no more than f4 N, the Head is right on the F4/f3 borderline. To the south of Wick it is showing f3 N for late afternoon evening.

"I think we will go for it, in the last hour of the tide before the overfalls kick up."

20:28 Tony: "At Sinclairs Bay. Duncansby Head was benign but stunning, the birdlife was amazing. Heading south now, thanks for forecast."

Plumage and blossom on the Solway

This time of year is a great time to visit coastal islands.


I didn't land on Murray's Isles and the reefs because cormorants, herring gulls, common gulls, oyster catchers and sandwich terns were breeding.


I landed on Barlocco Isle at the mouth of Fleet Bay and enjoyed a very bracing swim in crystal clear water.


I dried myself on sun warmed rocks beside...


... bunches of thrift, sea campion and bird's foot trefoil. The offshore breeze carried a heady scent of sweet hawthorn blossom and the coconut of gorse blossom.


Only 13km but a wonderful evening paddle.

30/05/2009

Kayak Caledonia progress report #6

Day 12, 2nd June 52km
Tony 12:00

"Hi Douglas we are a few miles west of Thurso. It's really calm after the wind yesterday so we are thinking of pushing on round Dunnet Head (a 50km day) before the weather breaks. A fisherman has said he thinks its going to kick up again this afternoon. Could you get an update on the weather? Thanks Tony."

XC weather and BBC both show f3 northerly for 1300 - 1900 Good luck :o)

Tony 22:05

"Well Dunnet Head was pretty mental. The wind did pick up to about force 4 northerly but fortunately not as much as the fisherman thought. Once we got round the head we hit a huge eddy on the other side which was hard work. We pressed on and got through the Merry Men of May as well. The tidal race here was really fast with very disturbed eddy lines which were challenging to cross. We are camped in Scotland Haven bay, just to the SE of the race. We are now just walking up to overlook the tide race and get some photos."

Tomorrow there is a solid force 4 northerly followed by force 4 dropping to 2 on Thursday. Tony and Gavin will see what it's like and maybe take a rest day.

Feeling sorry for myself.

While Tony and Gavin are having great adventures sea kayaking round NW Scotland, I am stuck at home. Last night I had gone for a little 20km solo paddle down on the Solway at sunset.

Just as I took this photo, my phone rang. It was Tony calling from Naeve Island. He told me all about their adventures on the high seas round Cape Wrath and below Whitten Head. Despite being master of the understatement, he managed to cram "fantastic, superb and stunning" into one short sentence.

With Tony's words still in my ears, I drifted away with my thoughts on the ebb tide. Slowly the daylight slipped away and the sky turned to inky darkness. I felt really sorry for myself, just for a moment...

31/05/2009

Kayak Caledonia progress report #5

Day 10, 31st May 39km

Tony, 20:20 "Great to be going east now. The surf is dying down. Had an amazing day, just on the edge of the sun all day. We paddled into Smoo Cave. The cliffs and birdlife on Whitten Head were fantastic, superb I did not know what to expect, it's absolutely stunning. We are now safely on Naeve Island, which is beautiful. We have not had any camp fires as we are too tired at the end of the day. The golden steadying liquid is going down well, if rather fast. We are getting along the coast well and all is fine"

Day 11, 1st June 29km

Tony 19:55 "We left our camp on Naeve island to find a force 4 easterly against us all the way. We had the tide with us so the wind against tide at Strathy Point was mental. We had hoped to go further but stopped at Melvich in quite a tired state. The local laird in The Bighouse took pity on us when he found us lying there and let us camp on his front lawn just behind the dunes! Just off to find some licenced premises to replenish essential fluids."