The lochs and headlands of the north coast of Mull

Our return journey started by rounding Rhuba an Aird on Mull's north coast in perfect sea kayaking conditions.


We the entered Loch a' Chumhainn as we passed Port na Ba.


The Loch extends deep into the heart of Mull through a narrow tidal passage and ends at the planned village of Dervaig. The village has an excellent bunkhouse which would make an ideal refuge if stormbound on this coast. The fishing vessel Eilean Ban, OB998 has a sheltered anchorage near Croig. She is a lobster boat and was built in 2004.


Leaving the shelter of the loch we rounded Quinish Point and crossed Loch Mingarry before entering the delightful shelter of Laorin Bay. We decided to stop for a full cooked evening meal and the consumption of some golden steadying liquid (18 years old!). This was for Phil's benefit as he was not sure if he would make it back round Ardnamurchan Point. This would mean landing at Kilchoan on the south side of Ardnamurchan and a 7km walk back to the car. Not a pleasant prospect for a sea kayaker!


After a very pleasant meal, the spring tide had made its way right over the beach to the grass. This long stop now meant it would be slack water at Ardnamurchan by the time we would get there.

Had the golden steadying liquid had the desired effect....?

10/05/2009

Paradise found, on Mornish, Mull.

From Quinish we paddled SW across the mouth of Loch a' Chumhainn (Loch Cuin) and rounded Rhubha an Aird. The headlands on the north coast of Mull can be quite lively on a spring tide and we were not disappointed. As we explored further, we came across...


...this delightful cove which was hidden among the dark basalt cliffs and reefs of the Mornish coast.


This looked like an excellent spot to partake a second luncheon.


We made our way over white shell sands to the dunes at the back of the beach.


From here, the sea stretched away in shades of aquamarine, turquoise and finally ultramarine to distant Arnamurchan. Beyond the point, the islands of Muck, Rum Eigg and Skye crowded the horizon with soaring ridges. The lighthouse at Arnamurchan looked a long way away.

What a great spot this was to enjoy lunch with like minded friends. We felt we had escaped to Paradise!

10/05/2009

The fossil tree of Quinish, Mull

The rough black basalt rocks of the Quinish peninsula on the north coast of Mull make for a rough landing.


Fortunately we found a south facing cove protected by a reef. However the boulders were not just ankle breaking, they were knee breaking!


Looking south from Dun Ban to Dun Leathan on the shores of Loch Chumain, the red arrow points to the site (NM 40875,56026 ) of the Quinish fossil tree whose great trunk of basalt is lying just below the high water mark. It was discovered in 1984 by Peter MacNab. It is much less known than McCulloch's Fossil tree on Mull's Wilderness coast about which, I have posted previously.


From the top of Dun Ban, a natural defensive position, there was a fantastic view north to the Cuillin of Rum and Skye and Ardnamurchan Point.

10/05/2009

Ardnamurchan to Mull

About 1km to the south of Ardnamurchan we came to the black basalt rocks of the headland of Corrachadh Mor. This is actually the most westerly point of Britain, not Ardnamurchan. However it is possible to drive a car to Ardnamurchan so this lesser point receives the vox pop laudit of being the most westerly point.


Working round the coast of the peninsula we came to the little isle of Eilean nan Seachd Seisrichean at the mouth of the Sound of Mull. The MV Lord of the Isles can be seen entering the Sound on her voyage from Barra to Oban.


We now struck out across the Sound of Mull aiming to land on Mull some 8km distant.


We enjoyed a great crossing with a fair tide, a following wind and helpful swell.


We landed just to the SW of Quinish Point on Mull.


Ardnamurchan lighthouse seemed a very great distance away.

10/05/2009

Kayak Caledonia

My good friends, Tony Page and Gavin Gerrard, are about to embark on a fundraising paddle of at least 800km round northern Scotland: "Kayak Caledonia".


Tony Page.


Gavin Gerrard.

They are raising money for MacMillan Cancer Support and also for Childline.

I wish them a great trip!

:o)

Sea kayaking round Ardnamurchan Point

The channel at Portuairk was draining fast due to the spring tide and with three kayaks to move it was quite a logistics exercise to keep up with the disappearing water!


Sanna Bay on the north of Ardnamurchan is fringed by glowing white shell sand beaches.


Soon we had Ardnamurchan Point and the lighthouse in our sights. In the distance, the low lands of Coll and its Cairns lay to the west. We were nearly tempted to go there as a day trip!


The spring tide was in full flow to the south and we were carried effortlessly towards the point.


The lighthouse was built by Alan Stephenson in 1849. It is built of granite quarried on the Ross of Mull. There are Islamic influences in the architectural detail. The tower is 36m high and the light stands 55m above sea level. There are two white flashes every 20 seconds. The lighthouse was automated in 1988.


The south going tide starts at +01:00 HW Oban and the north going starts at -05:22 HW Oban. The maximum spring rate is only 1.5 knots but if there is any wind against tide there can be a fearsomely rough tide race and yachting pilots advise giving the point a wide berth of 2 miles! We were at the point during maximum south going spring flow, with a light northerly wind. Conditions were very calm

10/05/2009

Journey to the far west.

Our original plan was a camping trip from Ardnamurchan over to the Cairns of Coll, down west of Coll to Tiree then back up east of Coll and over to north of Mull and back round Ardnamurchan. Unfortunately the weather Thursday, Friday and Saturday of last week put paid to that. Surprisingly Sunday promised to be fair so instead, we planned a little day trip from Ardnamurchan, the most westerly point of mainland Britain.

We left Glasgow at 6am and arrived at the Corran ferry at 8am. Since I was last here, the 08:15 ferry has been cancelled and the first Sunday sailing was not till 08:45. The ferry was still tied up at its mooring on the far side of Loch Linnhe.


Rather than wait, we decided to drive the long way round Loch Linnhe, Loch Eil and finally Loch Shiel. This way added 33 miles extra to the 23 miles and 15 minute ferry journey but only saved about 15 minutes.

This is the monument to Prince Charles Edward Stewart who raised the standard of the 1745 rebellion at Glenfinnan at the head of Loch Shiel. Just behind and out of sight, is the curved Glenfinnan railway viaduct which has been made famous by the Harry Potter films.


At 09:51 we finally crossed the watershed of the Ardnamurchan peninsula above Loch Mudle and there before us lay the distant "Small Isles" of Rum and Eigg.


At 10:20, 4 hours and 20 minutes and 186 miles after leaving Glasgow, we arrived at our destination. The little shell sand cove of Portuairk is a natural harbour, formed by a deep inlet through the rocks of this exposed coast of Ardnamurchan. The tide was ebbing fast so we had a long carry before we finally hit the water at 11:13. We couldn't wait for the day's adventures to begin. But it was to be a long day...

10/05/2009