From sea to river.

There was a definite autumn chill in the air on the Solway Firth. I set off from Fleet Bay through which the peaty waters of the River Fleet make their way to the Irish Sea.


About half of my paddling is done here but I tend not to post about it much. I enjoy the familiarity of the location but the conditions are always different. 9 meter tides and winds that whistle down from the mountains see to that! I usually paddle on my own here and that does tend to sharpen the senses with respect to changing conditions. On this day I thought I would try something different. The rivers were full with recent rain and a big spring tide gave the opportunity for some river exploration. I decided to paddle up the River Fleet.


On the way up Fleet Bay, I passed the last of the salmon stake nets that are characteristic of this part of the Solway. At one time there were six nets on this side of the estuary.


A little further on little Cardoness chapel is tucked away in a little sheltered bay behind a wooded headland.


A low autumn sun, with dark clouds inland, gave a wonderful rich light to show off the autumn colours. The SW wind picked up and was fair pushing me on up the firth.


Two swans made their way inland up the narrowing firth. On the salt marshes below, curlews, oyster catchers gulls and herons were waiting for the tide to turn and reveal their feeding grounds on the Solway mud and sand flats.

17/10/2008

A lunchtime Guinness and a quick shag!

We made surprisingly good time up the Sound of Islay. We knew we would easily arrive in Port Askaig in time to catch the ferry so we decided to stop for some lunch. We drew the kayaks up this remote and delightful beach. Our boots made satisfying crunching noises in the pebbles as the tides in the Sound of Islay swept by.


As the sun had crossed the yardarm, some 20 minutes past, it seemed appropriate to wash our sandwiches down with our favoured libation.


At the other end of the beach, the local shags remained unmoved by our presence as they squabbled among themselves for possession of the highest perch. One of the shags was much quicker than the others and always seemed to end up having ownership of the favoured ledge. This lovely spot, at the edge of the white capped waters of the Sound of Islay, is overlooked by the Paps of Jura, which heave towards the NE sky.

15/07/2008

Rockpool Menai 18 in the Sound of Islay

Photo T Page.

On our Islay trip, I left my Quest at home and once more borrowed the Rockpool Menai 18 expedition kayak from the good folk, Geoff and Anne at Kari-Tek. I had previously borrowed it in autumn 2007 and used it for day trips on the Solway. I really wanted to use it as intended when loaded with camping gear and Guinn...I mean supplies! This boat is beautifully made and did I mention huge? Despite its size it is not too heavy and I have never had such an easy time with packing! It's also incredibly comfortable with the usual Rockpool ergonomics in seat, thigh braces and foot rest. The little fore deck hatch is so useful for items you want to get to quickly. It is a fast boat. If Tony and I are both in Quests, I can't keep up in a sprint. In this boat on a long sprint, to see who would get the best seat in the bothy, I was able to just keep in front of Tony's Quest. (It's a pity he can leap out of a kayak so quickly, as he still got through the bothy door first!)


Photo T Page.

We had a lot of wind on our visit to Islay and the Menai 18 was very easy to trim to any course with Jeff's really excellent Hydro skeg rudder system. When it was really blowing, it was best to use this in skeg mode rather than rudder mode. It has a low deck profile for such a large boat. This reduces windage but the low back deck makes it a very easy boat to roll for those that favour lay back rolls.


For big crossings and expeditions I think the Menai 18 is outstanding. Its only drawbacks (when compared to smaller day boats such as its sibling the Alaw) are a comparative lack of manouverability and a tendency for the long flat bottom section to slam on short steep waves. However, my friend Alan tried it as a dayboat on the Solway. Alan is 6'5" and a very muscular 19 stone. He raved about its comfort, fit and manouverability and has now bought one second hand. Its lighweight former owner has now bought an Alaw Bach.

Unless you have a similar build to Alan, I would not recommend it to use as a single kayak, if most of your trips were day trips with just the occasional weekend or week long expedition. However, as a dedicated expedition kayak the Menai 18 has it all: practicality, carrying capacity, speed, handling in strong winds and most of all comfort, day after day.

And where better to test a kayak than on Islay's varied coastline with views to Jura?

15/07/2008

The fastness of south east Islay.

After the night's rain, the day dawned fair in the Sound of Islay. Due to the Clyde Coastguard industrial action we did not get our usual MSI weather forecast. Fortunately my Pocketsurfer 2 was able to get reception, even in this remote place. XC weather was forecasting westerly winds of force 7 for the rest of the week, so sadly, we decided that this would be our last day.


The south going tide was already well established and this yacht was making full use of it as she slipped away to the SW past distant Jura. To return home we would need to go north against the tide to the ferry terminal at Port Askaig. However, there are plenty eddies along the Islay coast in a south going tide and we decided not to wait for the tide to turn. By leaving when we did, we could make the afternoon ferry back to the mainland.


The south east coast of Islay is very beautiful with lonely hills tumbling into the Sound of Islay. In the 18km from Claggain Bay to Port Askaig no roads breach this fastness. I can feel the call of this wonderful land and I know I will return.

15/07/2008

Water, fire and peaty smoke on Islay!

Paddling across great leagues of ocean and battling against katabatic winds had left us hot tired and sweaty. We noticed a waterfall of bracing cold mountain water which rushed down from the hills above and tumbled over a small cliff almost into the sea. We found shelter in an old cottage nearby and took turns to enjoy a natural shower. At the back of the waterfall there was a thick bank of soft moss to lean against while the fresh water cleansed the salt. It was very brrrracing!


We soon warmed up beside a blazing fire, fuelled by a log which Tony had brought from one of our stops.

Uncorking a bottle of the great Ardbeg, we swapped sea kayaking yarns late into the Islay night as the wind and rain lashed the outside of the bothy. Although we were burning logs, the room was filled by a peaty aroma from the Ardbeg.

14/07/2008

Of lighthouses and lenticulars!

We were completely exhausted by the time we rounded McArthur's Head so we decided to take a breather by the lighthouse jetty. This lighthouse, though on the mainland of Islay, is so remote that it was supplied by sea.


While David rested, Tony and I decided to climb up to the lighthouse. There were quite a few steps!


The boats were soon left far below.


Then there were more steps and we got a great view up the Sound of Islay.


After some further steps, we finally made the lighthouse gate. We were just grateful we did not have to carry supplies on our backs, as the light keepers of old had to do.

Dougie MacDougall was one of a family of Islay boatmen who served the lighthouse. You can read more about him over on Islay Weblog.


McArthur's Head lighthouse was built in 1861 by Thomas and David Stevenson. The light shows two flashes every 10s, and is red from NW to NE an white from other directions. The light is 39m above datum.

We were struck by the very unusual looking clouds which had formed downwind of the headland.


These are lenticular clouds. These are caused by warm moist air blowing over mountains and form as standing waves down wind of high ground. Once formed, air rises very rapidly round the clouds and this sucks even more wind into the system. The result is very strong winds at the surface, which is what we experienced crossing Proaig Bay. The wind would also have been accelerated down through the mountains in Proaig Glen.

14/07/2008

Blowin' away the cobwebs round McArthur's Head!

Aroused from our slumbers, we paddled the SE coast of Islay under some very unusual clouds.


As we approached a headland, the wind steadily increased.


Round this point Tony tried to paddle straight across the bay into the wind but at times he was going backwards, straight out to sea. We were now very much awake, as we battled our way into the wind by hugging the shore. At times our progress could be measured in inches.


Only once we were in the shelter of McArthur's Head did we finally escape the blast of the wind. McArthur's Head is an interesting place. This detatched stack has a cave running right through it to the narrow channel behind.

14/07/2008