Pennies from heaven in Kildalton church yard.

After setting up camp, we went for a little walk in the gentle countryside which backs the SE corner of Islay's coastline.


At the crest of a hill we came across the ancient churchyard of Kildalton.


The churchyard contains the Kildalton Cross. This is one of the finest early Christian crosses in the British Isles. It was carved in the 8th century and so is nearly 1200 years old. It is believed the sculptors came from Iona. It is remarkably well preserved for such an ancient sculpture. The nearby church dates from the 12th century.


The east side of the cross has scenes depicting the Virgin and Child with attendant angels, Cain murdering Abel, the Sacrifice of Isaac and David killing the Lion.


The west side of the cross has four carved lions.


At the foot and hidden on small ledges on the cross there is a collection of pennies, just enough for a round of Guinness!.


The church fell into disuse in the 17th century but the graveyard continued to be used until the late 19th century. In addition to medieval grave slabs there are more modern ones such as this one which is covered in rich coloured lichen. The deceased, Robert Cameron, either lived or worked at the now abandoned settlement of Proaig, which we had visited earlier in the day.

We now felt we had learned a little more about the countryside of Islay, which we were paddling round.

12/07/2008

Landfall at Claggain Bay, Islay

Travelling down the east coast of Islay, we left Proaig Bay and distant McArthur's Head then paddled SSE to the next headland, Carraig Mhor.


On rounding Carraig Mhor the character of the Islay landscape changed dramatically. Gentle wooded slopes hung over beaches of dazzling white sand.


After we passed the next low headland, Rhuba Liath, we were paddling amongst skerries and more white sand beaches.


On reaching Claggain Bay the shadows were lengthening so we decided to stop for the evening and enjoy the view up the Sound of Jura.

12/07/2008

Big skies above Proaig Bay, Islay

Rounding McArthur's head we were sheltered from the northerly winds as we entered the broad sweep of Proaig Bay.


Shadows of clouds chased one another across the empty landscape of the east coast of Islay.

In the distance we cot sight of the abandoned cottages of Proaig.


We made landfall on this delightful little spit of land.


The main cottage and its byre have recently been re-roofed and the cottage is open. It is a very spacious bothy but the pigeons can get in and everything is covered in their shit. The bed has been covered with a polythene sheet but we were not enticed to stay.


At the back of the bothy these ancient cottage walls still stand against the elements. Their empty and roofless rooms are filled only with nettles and fleeting memories of their past.

We pressed on to the south as the shadows lengthened.

12/07/2008

McArthur's Head lighthouse and the mouth of the Sound of Islay

We launched again into the Sound of Islay. This is the view back to the north from whence we had come. The distinctive mounds of the Paps of Jura are lost in the evening clouds above Jura on the right.


We were now paddling SE below the cliffs of Beinn na Caillich towards the distant McArthur's Head lighthouse.


Looking back up the Sound of Islay, past Mair and Billy, to distant Port Askaig.


We approached McArthur's Head using a variety of paddling techniques.


On a lively following sea, the sun sparkled against the lengthening shadows of the dark cliffs behind.


McArthur's Head lighthouse was built in 1861 by David and Thomas Stevenson. It was powered by acetylene then propane gas and the last keeper left in 1969 when the light was automated. In 2005 it was converted to a solar powered electric lamp. It flashes twice every 10 seconds, white then red. While manned, the lighthouse was serviced by boat from Port Askaig due to the remote nature of this wild part of Islay making land access very difficult.

12/07/2008

Of an Islay bothy, fishing rods and buoyancy aids.

After breaking out out of the tide we followed the coast and came across this wonderful bothy under scudding white clouds. Its remoteness has protected it from the vandalism that has afflicted many mainland bothies.


The view from the bothy door extended to the distant Mull of Kintyre.


This well equipped bothy has airbeds and a pump. It also has mask, snorkel and flippers and a fishing rod! On this occasion it was only 17:30 so we decided to press on further before making camp. We promised we would return! Both the estate and the MBA are due thanks for this wonderful place.


As we launched, David had dropped his rod into the sea just offshore. Fortunately he was wearing his dry suit and recovered it. It took several attempts as he forgot to remove his buoyancy aid. This must have made a deep impression as over the next four days Tony and I found several BA's, just like David's, on many beaches we stopped at. Usually just after David had paddled on!

12/07/2008

Tragedy in the Sound of Islay

The BBC Scotland News has just reported a tragic accident in the Sound of Islay. Yesterday (Saturday) afternoon, a sea angler was swept away by strong spring tide currents in the Sound of Islay. The RNLI Lifeboat from Port Askaig and a helicopter were in action within minutes and the man was rescued. He was airlifted to hospital in Oban but very sadly he died later.

My heart goes out to his bereaved relatives.

It just emphasises the power of the sea. We had enjoyed kayaking in these strong currents just a few days before on our holiday. Now someone else on holiday, in the same place, has lost their life.

We cut our holiday short and stayed on the sheltered side of the island due to the wind conditions, which made kayaking difficult. I am glad we did. We are fortunate, we will be able to return to Islay.

The Sound of Islay

After disembarking from the ferry at Port Askaig, we wasted no time, in getting onto the water. We did not even stay to sample the ales of the Port Askaig hotel, whose beer garden conveniently overlooks this little jetty. It has been a licensed premises since the 16th century.

With the hills of Jura just a short distance away over the narrows, at 3 hours past the turn of the tide, the south going ebb was running strongly down the Sound of Islay. Even though it was neap tides, the current was sweeping past the mouth of the harbour and it was quite a sight to see a 3,000 ton ferry break out into the current. The combination of tide, wind and forecast made our decision to go south with the flow an easy one. We were on the water by 16:00 hours.


Although the spring rate in mid sound is 5 knots, we hit 10 knots in the current just outside the harbour. The wooded slopes of Dunlossit estate made a gentle introduction to the wild and remote east coast of Islay beyond. The south going ebb in the Sound of Islay starts at +05:15 HW Dover and the North going flood starts at -00:50 HW Dover. The spring rate is 5 knots.


We then made our way into mid channel to take maximum advantage of wind and tide. We averaged 12km/hour (6 knots) down the upper part of the Sound of Islay.


The tide slowed as we approached the entrance of the sound with Am Fraoch Eilean on the left and McArthur's Head on Islay straight ahead. The distant Kintyre peninsula can just be seen on the horizon. We now turned west and made for Islay's lonely eastern shores.


This map shows the GPS track of our route over the 4 days of our visit.

12/07/2008