Imagine you are at the edge of the sea on a day when it is difficult to say where the land ends and the sea begins and where the sea ends and the sky begins. Sea kayaking lets you explore these and your own boundaries and broadens your horizons. Sea kayaking is the new mountaineering.
Monday, February 23, 2009
Sea kayaking to Great Cumbrae.
The coastal forecast for the Clyde on Saturday past was "Wind speed F4-5 Wind direction - SW Max gust in knots - 27". It was perfect for a little jaunt from Fairlie over to the Great Cumbrae Island. David and Phil were paddling HMS Dreadnought, so no worries there then! We were soon making our way out past the Hunterston ore terminal, which is one of the major European ports for the import of coal. It can accommodate the largest cape sized vessels and transfer their cargo to smaller vessels for distribution to other European ports.
Alan had contacted us the night before and asked if he could come along. He said he fancied getting some experience in rougher conditions. At first we were in the lee of the Cumbrae and all was flat.
Many people don't realize that there are tide races in the Clyde but there are and in wind against tide conditions the off the corners of the Cumbrae, it can get a little lumpy. We found ourselves approaching Farland Point as the ebb tide was running at its maximum against the freshening SW wind.
Alan enjoyed the lumpiness but when we rounded the point and headed into Millport Bay he began to have trouble with weathercocking with the wind on his beam. We decided to take a break on the Eileans.
What a great spot for an early lunch. It turned out the Alan's skeg had jammed up, so he freed it off and I advised him to put his bulky deck bag into a hatch. We would have a strong beam wind round the next point.
Our route covered 19.5km.
21/02/2009
Sunday, February 22, 2009
A swell time on the north coast of Scarp and Cearstaigh
We cut through the gap between Scarp and Cearstaigh...
...and emerged from the shelter of the sandy cove on the north coast of Scarp into somewhat confused water beyond.
This was the open Atlantic and the swell was kicking up a fearsome clapotis off the dark cliffs. Note Tony's head (hull well down) to the right of Andy.
The only calm on the west coast of Cearstaigh was Murty's smile of quiet contentment!
Swells surged in under a huge overhang...
... and in the rush to leave the premises some gel coat was struck asunder. After we were exhausted, we returned to the relative shelter of the gap and practiced rolling and rescues. Photo Clark Fenton.
After loading the kayaks back onto the Cuma in the lee of Cearstaigh, Murdani took us back to Loch Roag for a second night in its shelter.
04/06/2008
Friday, February 20, 2009
Sea kayaking Scarp's cave coast
The swell had got up with the rise in tide during our lunch break on Scarp. There were several assisted launches. I was last off the beach but the steep sand meant I got my spray deck on while dry then pushed myself down the slope.
We now followed scudding clouds down the Caolas an Scarp.
We then found ourselves on Scarp's NE coast. It is riddled with caves.
Inside this cave a blowhole was venting a fine spray of sea water into the already damp air.
Right at the back there was a small beach. The noise of the surf echoed and bellowed in the confined space.
Another large cave had the most amazing colours in its rocks.
We explored deep within its confines.
Just when we thought we had explored the last cave, we turned a corner and found this monster.
This last cave, with a sandy shore at its back, was off the sandy bay at the north end of Scarp where we met Cuma.
We now landed briefly on Scarp to ensure all items on deck were securely mounted....
04/06/2008
Thursday, February 19, 2009
Decay and restoration on Scarp.
From the shore we made our way up the hill through the remains of the settlement on Scarp. Photo: T Page.
In the distance on the right, you can just make out the jetty on Harris that was the Scarp inhabitants' link to the outside world.
It was only two years since our last visit but the houses had deteriorated noticeably.
Some of the old black houses still had remains of their thatched roofs.
We were surprised to find that one house was being restored, probably as a holiday home. I wonder if the new owner is a descendant of one of the original crofters of Scarp?
The grave yard was in the machair behind the dunes. Most of the graves were marked by simple rounded boulders from the beach below, although there were a few carved stones.
04/06/2008
Wednesday, February 18, 2009
Scarp, a kyles too far and a phone too few.
Crossing the Caolas an Scarp we made landfall on the island of Scarp. Although the distance across the kyles is only 430 metres, the shallow channel can be very turbulent in wind and swell conditions. The islanders felt very isolated when they were marooned on the island for long periods. The last two families evacuated the island in 1971, some four decades after the evacuation of the apparently much more isolated St Kilda. The final decision came after a storm carried away the submarine telephone link between Scarp and Harris in 1970. The phone company decided not to replace it and the islanders left shortly afterwards.
Even on a calm day landing at Scarp could be tricky with swell coming round both sides of the island. We timed our landings on the smaller sets and everyone got ashore dry.
We were ready for a leisurely second luncheon and carried the kayaks well above the surf...
...before making our way to the dunes between the beach and the abandoned village.
Its inhabitants may now have left but what a place for a break on a summer's day!
04/06/2008
Tuesday, February 17, 2009
A hint of Spring round the Little Cumbrae Island.
We set off from Bute towards the north end of Little Cumbrae.
It was really pleasant and almost warm.
We were surprised to see several yachts with sails up at this time of year!
As we approached the lighthouse on the Little Cumbrae, we saw a gannet and courting eider ducks.
We rounded the north end of Little Cumbrae, there is a nice shingle beach to land on. The mountains of Arran still looked wintry.
We made our way south to the Little Cumbrae Castle then back over the channel to Seamill. We were home by 5pm but what a great short winter day!
15/02/2009
Monday, February 16, 2009
Free again, escape to Bute.
It's been a while since we have been out. I think it's called cabin fever. We found ourselves on the reddish sands in front of the douce Victorian villas of Seamill on the Ayrshire coast. We were bound for the southern end of island of Bute, which is the little pointed peak, a third of the way in from the right hand edge of this photograph.
My goodness it was good to be back on the water. We were bound for Glencallum Bay on the southern point of Bute. We have been there lots of times but it is a rewarding paddle.
Our bows lifted as the spring flood tide ran against the NW wind.
In the distance, the hills of Arran were nearly stripped of the recent snows.
The arms of Glencallum Bay offered us much needed shelter for a lunch break. It is a very special place and we touched foot on its shore just three and a half hours after leaving our front door!
The bay faces out into the broadening expanse of the Firth of Clyde
We covered 23.2km and circumnavigated the island of Little Cumbrae on our way to Bute and back.
15/02/2009
Sunday, February 15, 2009
Glencallum bay
This post was made earlier today while on location at Glencallum Bay on the Island of Bute in the Firth of Clyde. The photo was taken with my mobile phone, nothing unusual with that, and the blog was posted by a simple "blog this" menu attached to the photo. I had previously tried to make "on location" blogs using Nokia and Samsung phones. They both involved emailing and on neither phone could I get the photo to transmit despite hours trawling the Internet to try and find the required settings for phone, email and MMS.
Sony Ericsson have got it really sorted with their K770i phone, no setting it up was required, it just worked! Even better, I still use the same PAYG SIM card I have had for the last 5 years!
15/02/2009
Friday, February 13, 2009
Speed bonny boat over the sea to Scarp!
We were blown right out of Loch Crabhadail on Harris.
The rocky gneiss of its ancient mountains gave way to great shifting dunes of sand at its mouth.
And then we entered the fabled Coalas an Scarp. The light here is truly like no other on Earth.
Murty kept a watchful eye,
as our shadows sped across the sandy bottom on our way to Scarp!
We love sea kayaking in Scotland!
04/06/2008