Sea kayaking Scarp's cave coast

The swell had got up with the rise in tide during our lunch break on Scarp. There were several assisted launches. I was last off the beach but the steep sand meant I got my spray deck on while dry then pushed myself down the slope.


We now followed scudding clouds down the Caolas an Scarp.


We then found ourselves on Scarp's NE coast. It is riddled with caves.


Inside this cave a blowhole was venting a fine spray of sea water into the already damp air.


Right at the back there was a small beach. The noise of the surf echoed and bellowed in the confined space.


Another large cave had the most amazing colours in its rocks.


We explored deep within its confines.


Just when we thought we had explored the last cave, we turned a corner and found this monster.


This last cave, with a sandy shore at its back, was off the sandy bay at the north end of Scarp where we met Cuma.


We now landed briefly on Scarp to ensure all items on deck were securely mounted....

04/06/2008

Decay and restoration on Scarp.

From the shore we made our way up the hill through the remains of the settlement on Scarp. Photo: T Page.


In the distance on the right, you can just make out the jetty on Harris that was the Scarp inhabitants' link to the outside world.


It was only two years since our last visit but the houses had deteriorated noticeably.


Some of the old black houses still had remains of their thatched roofs.


We were surprised to find that one house was being restored, probably as a holiday home. I wonder if the new owner is a descendant of one of the original crofters of Scarp?


The grave yard was in the machair behind the dunes. Most of the graves were marked by simple rounded boulders from the beach below, although there were a few carved stones.

04/06/2008

Scarp, a kyles too far and a phone too few.

Crossing the Caolas an Scarp we made landfall on the island of Scarp. Although the distance across the kyles is only 430 metres, the shallow channel can be very turbulent in wind and swell conditions. The islanders felt very isolated when they were marooned on the island for long periods. The last two families evacuated the island in 1971, some four decades after the evacuation of the apparently much more isolated St Kilda. The final decision came after a storm carried away the submarine telephone link between Scarp and Harris in 1970. The phone company decided not to replace it and the islanders left shortly afterwards.


Even on a calm day landing at Scarp could be tricky with swell coming round both sides of the island. We timed our landings on the smaller sets and everyone got ashore dry.


We were ready for a leisurely second luncheon and carried the kayaks well above the surf...


...before making our way to the dunes between the beach and the abandoned village.


Its inhabitants may now have left but what a place for a break on a summer's day!

04/06/2008

A hint of Spring round the Little Cumbrae Island.

We set off from Bute towards the north end of Little Cumbrae.


It was really pleasant and almost warm.


We were surprised to see several yachts with sails up at this time of year!


As we approached the lighthouse on the Little Cumbrae, we saw a gannet and courting eider ducks.


We rounded the north end of Little Cumbrae, there is a nice shingle beach to land on. The mountains of Arran still looked wintry.


We made our way south to the Little Cumbrae Castle then back over the channel to Seamill. We were home by 5pm but what a great short winter day!

15/02/2009

Free again, escape to Bute.

It's been a while since we have been out. I think it's called cabin fever. We found ourselves on the reddish sands in front of the douce Victorian villas of Seamill on the Ayrshire coast. We were bound for the southern end of island of Bute, which is the little pointed peak, a third of the way in from the right hand edge of this photograph.


My goodness it was good to be back on the water. We were bound for Glencallum Bay on the southern point of Bute. We have been there lots of times but it is a rewarding paddle.


Our bows lifted as the spring flood tide ran against the NW wind.


In the distance, the hills of Arran were nearly stripped of the recent snows.


The arms of Glencallum Bay offered us much needed shelter for a lunch break. It is a very special place and we touched foot on its shore just three and a half hours after leaving our front door!


The bay faces out into the broadening expanse of the Firth of Clyde


We covered 23.2km and circumnavigated the island of Little Cumbrae on our way to Bute and back.

15/02/2009

Glencallum bay

Great to be out!

This post was made earlier today while on location at Glencallum Bay on the Island of Bute in the Firth of Clyde. The photo was taken with my mobile phone, nothing unusual with that, and the blog was posted by a simple "blog this" menu attached to the photo. I had previously tried to make "on location" blogs using Nokia and Samsung phones. They both involved emailing and on neither phone could I get the photo to transmit despite hours trawling the Internet to try and find the required settings for phone, email and MMS.

Sony Ericsson have got it really sorted with their K770i phone, no setting it up was required, it just worked! Even better, I still use the same PAYG SIM card I have had for the last 5 years!

15/02/2009

Speed bonny boat over the sea to Scarp!

We were blown right out of Loch Crabhadail on Harris.


The rocky gneiss of its ancient mountains gave way to great shifting dunes of sand at its mouth.


And then we entered the fabled Coalas an Scarp. The light here is truly like no other on Earth.


Murty kept a watchful eye,


as our shadows sped across the sandy bottom on our way to Scarp!

We love sea kayaking in Scotland!

04/06/2008

Glen Crabhadail

The gusty offshore wind blew this old buoy, from its resting place high in the machair...


... down onto the sands of Camas Crabhadail.



Our kayaks were lost in the empty space of Glen Crabhadail.


After a second breakfast, we made our way over the machair and into the heartland of the Glen.


Over a rise, we came to the fresh water Loch a' Ghlinnhe. This looked like a very fine place to fish for sea trout.


We came across these neat lazy beds and knew that these lands of Harris were not always empty of human habitation. Photo JLW.


Soon we felt the call of the sea again and made our way back to the beach. Photo JLW.

04/06/2008

Cartwheels in Loch Crabhadale

From the mouth of Loch Reasort we turned to the SW and entered the beautiful Loch Crabhadail (Cravadale). The wind was very squally, with heavy gusts lifting the surface of the water. A tow was set up for one of the girls and some of the others were having problems with lee-cocking, finding it almost impossible to keep their bows into he wind.


The quality of the Hebridean light was simply stunning.


The head of Loch Crabhadale is fringed by two cresents of dazzling white shell sand.


After our exertions against the wind, it seemed like the perfect place to stop.


Not long after this photo was taken, a gust of wind caught Jennifer's kayak and sent it cartwheeling, end over end, down the beach. I was lucky to catch it in the shallows, before it was blown out to sea. Several strips of duct tape sealed the bashes in the gel coat and promised a weekend of repairs once home!

04/06/2008

Loch Reasort, a long time in the making.

Our first day back on Harris dawned with a freshening SW wind but wonderful clear skies and sunshine. It was good to be back on the water as we left MV Cuma at her mooring. We would rendezvous with the Cuma at the north end of Scarp later in the day.


Cuma had anchored half way in towards the head of Loch Reasort (Resort in English).


We now made our way down the loch towards the Atlantic.


A glacier cut a U shaped valley though the ancient rocks of Lewisian gneiss.


Ahead lay the distant island of Scarp.


As we paddled below the rocky slopes of Taran Mor, 303m, we were looking at rocks that are about 2,500 million years old. Even in this now desolate place, lazy beds betrayed past settlements that are now long forgotten.


Our route from Loch Reasort to Scarp.

04/06/2008