The first building we came to on Jura was...
...the impressively situated Jura House. The previous owner, Tony Riley-Smith, died in 2010. Along with Robin Fletcher the then owner of Ardlussa estate in north Jura he rebuilt the dilapidated Jura distillery in the early 1960's.
The house has an amazing view over the Sound to Islay.
It was a beautiful morning and we now paddled past Brosdale Island and into a...
...dazzling Sound of Jura.
The SE corner of Jura is marked by Rubha Uamh an Tuill and now we would be travelling NE.
Some distaince up the coast we were officially welcomed back to Jura by this magnificent white tailed sea eagle.
What a sight!
Imagine you are at the edge of the sea on a day when it is difficult to say where the land ends and the sea begins and where the sea ends and the sky begins. Sea kayaking lets you explore these and your own boundaries and broadens your horizons. Sea kayaking is the new mountaineering.
Tuesday, June 09, 2015
Saturday, June 06, 2015
Dawn in the Sound of Islay
We rose at dawn in the Sound of Islay.
The warm light dir not reflect the air temperature which was rather cold.
Surprisingly we were not the first to be afloat on the Sound. The MV Scot Isles was on her way to Wicklow in Ireland. At 1am she had been off Arnamurchan Point then made her way down the Sound of Mull and Firth of Lorn before entering the Sound of Islay.
The water off An Cladach was still and clear but...
...once we left the shore it was moving like a train. This is the view up the Sound and...
...this is the view down the Sound past McArthur's Head lighthouse.
The ebb tide was flowing SE down the Sound. We paddled at right angles to the flow. To the SE, the distant mountains of Arran rose beyond the Kintyre peninsula. After leaving Islay we paddled towards...
...the green can on the above chart and continued paddling NW. You can see how far we were carried SE before we hit a NW going counter eddy.
We arrived off Am Fraoch Eilean which is topped by...
...the remains of the 15th century Claig Castle.
Soon we left the Sound of Islay and Claig Castle behind us. We would shortly enter the Sound of Jura and when the tide turned about mid day, it would accelerate us back to our starting point at Carsaig Bay on the mainland.
The warm light dir not reflect the air temperature which was rather cold.
Surprisingly we were not the first to be afloat on the Sound. The MV Scot Isles was on her way to Wicklow in Ireland. At 1am she had been off Arnamurchan Point then made her way down the Sound of Mull and Firth of Lorn before entering the Sound of Islay.
The water off An Cladach was still and clear but...
...once we left the shore it was moving like a train. This is the view up the Sound and...
...this is the view down the Sound past McArthur's Head lighthouse.
The ebb tide was flowing SE down the Sound. We paddled at right angles to the flow. To the SE, the distant mountains of Arran rose beyond the Kintyre peninsula. After leaving Islay we paddled towards...
...the green can on the above chart and continued paddling NW. You can see how far we were carried SE before we hit a NW going counter eddy.
We arrived off Am Fraoch Eilean which is topped by...
Friday, June 05, 2015
A taste of the Sound of Islay.
An Cladach in SE Islay is an exceptional bothy,
...and we soon made ourselves at home. Some other bothies do not have libraries as they are too easy to get to and some visitors think that books are fire lighters.
The food preparation area had been left very clean.
The notice board had information about the history of the bothy.
There was even a bag of dry fire wood by the fire.
We were joined by not one but three otters!
This one suddenly surfaced close inshore and climbed on a rock to look at us. He took me by surprise so this shot is blurred.
Unfortunately the noise of the shutter sent it back under the water.
We took a stroll in the sunset to gather some firewood.
We sat for ages on a rock just watching the tide running in the Sound of Islay.
At 20:50 the MV Hebridean Isles motored down the Sound.
She was on the Saturday service which left Oban at 16:30, stopped at Colonsay, Port Askaig on Islay and was now on her way to Kennacraig on Kintyre, where she would arrive at 22:50. We left the Sound of Islay to the gathering darkness and the fading rumble of the Hebridean Isles engines.
It was time to get the fire on, get the baked potatoes cooking and pour a dram of Caol Ila. What does Caol Ila mean? It means the Sound of Islay ...what else?!
...and we soon made ourselves at home. Some other bothies do not have libraries as they are too easy to get to and some visitors think that books are fire lighters.
The food preparation area had been left very clean.
The notice board had information about the history of the bothy.
There was even a bag of dry fire wood by the fire.
We soon had our evening meal on and consumed it with relish before...
...taking some air outside the bothy.
We were joined by not one but three otters!
This one suddenly surfaced close inshore and climbed on a rock to look at us. He took me by surprise so this shot is blurred.
Unfortunately the noise of the shutter sent it back under the water.
We took a stroll in the sunset to gather some firewood.
We sat for ages on a rock just watching the tide running in the Sound of Islay.
At 20:50 the MV Hebridean Isles motored down the Sound.
She was on the Saturday service which left Oban at 16:30, stopped at Colonsay, Port Askaig on Islay and was now on her way to Kennacraig on Kintyre, where she would arrive at 22:50. We left the Sound of Islay to the gathering darkness and the fading rumble of the Hebridean Isles engines.
It was time to get the fire on, get the baked potatoes cooking and pour a dram of Caol Ila. What does Caol Ila mean? It means the Sound of Islay ...what else?!
Thursday, June 04, 2015
A haven by the shore of the southern Sound of Islay.
Bt the time we passed the Carraig Mhor lighthouse on the Islay shore to the south of ort Askaig, we could...
...see right through the southern Sound of Islay to the distant Kintyre peninsula beyond.
Looking back the Paps of Jura were receding...
...at a rate of knots (literally) as the...
...swirls and boils in mid channel pushed us south.
Amazingly quickly it was time to break out of the flow...
...we did not want to be pushed beyond McArthur's Head lighthouse!
We turned west looking for the tiny haven...
...of An Cladach (the stony shore), another MBA bothy.
This was to be our home for the night. We had arrived on the wonderful isle of Islay from the mainland by a most circuitous route!
It was six pm and the sun was sinking fast. Tony went for a shower in the local waterfall. I went for a quick swim in the sea. It was only 9C. I suspect the waterfall might have been a little warmer.
...see right through the southern Sound of Islay to the distant Kintyre peninsula beyond.
Looking back the Paps of Jura were receding...
...at a rate of knots (literally) as the...
...swirls and boils in mid channel pushed us south.
Amazingly quickly it was time to break out of the flow...
...we did not want to be pushed beyond McArthur's Head lighthouse!
We turned west looking for the tiny haven...
...of An Cladach (the stony shore), another MBA bothy.
This was to be our home for the night. We had arrived on the wonderful isle of Islay from the mainland by a most circuitous route!
It was six pm and the sun was sinking fast. Tony went for a shower in the local waterfall. I went for a quick swim in the sea. It was only 9C. I suspect the waterfall might have been a little warmer.
Wednesday, June 03, 2015
The northern Sound of Islay, the sound of superlatives.
The north half of the Sound of Islay is blessed with...
...some amazing rock architecture on the Jura shore. We were treated to more dykes, arches,...
....caves and stacks.
We were enjoying the view so much that we kept close inshore out of the main south going flow.
The Islay shore was also not without its delights. This is the Bunnahabhain distillery.
Meanwhile back on the Jura shore the succession of caves and...
dykes continued.
Then gradually the Sound narrowed and as we approached...
...the lighthouse at Carragh an t-Sruith the full force of the ebb tide caught us and we sped south at 13km/hr.
The next Islay delight was the Caol Ila distillery very rapidly followed by...
...Port Askaig, where the ferries from Kintyre, Jura, Colonsay and Oban call. This evening it was only the Eilean Dhiura, the Jura ferry, that was in port.
As we reflected on what we had seen in our rapid transit of the northern Sound of Islay, we agreed that it truly was a Sound of Superlatives. As we would now be crossing from Jura to Islay I was particularly glad I had brought some Caol Ila 18y old malt for later that night. Jura malt on Jura then Islay malt on Islay, what could be better?
...some amazing rock architecture on the Jura shore. We were treated to more dykes, arches,...
....caves and stacks.
We were enjoying the view so much that we kept close inshore out of the main south going flow.
The Islay shore was also not without its delights. This is the Bunnahabhain distillery.
Meanwhile back on the Jura shore the succession of caves and...
dykes continued.
Then gradually the Sound narrowed and as we approached...
...the lighthouse at Carragh an t-Sruith the full force of the ebb tide caught us and we sped south at 13km/hr.
The next Islay delight was the Caol Ila distillery very rapidly followed by...
...Port Askaig, where the ferries from Kintyre, Jura, Colonsay and Oban call. This evening it was only the Eilean Dhiura, the Jura ferry, that was in port.
As we reflected on what we had seen in our rapid transit of the northern Sound of Islay, we agreed that it truly was a Sound of Superlatives. As we would now be crossing from Jura to Islay I was particularly glad I had brought some Caol Ila 18y old malt for later that night. Jura malt on Jura then Islay malt on Islay, what could be better?